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Thats for the EGR and air bypass valves. The green line goes to the EGR, red is vacuum source. The other ones can be plugged if you'd like. If you want to get fancy, disconnect the plumbing totally to the lower two vacuum solenoids. The upper one that sits by itself is the one for the EGR system. The tees and crap can come out, just leave the little round can hooked into the system as a vacuum reservoir.
86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
Everything looks like voodoo if you don't understand how it works
Really all of them. There aren't all that many to be honest. One feed to the tree on the firewall, one to the MAP, one to the fuel pressure regulator, one to the control solenoids on the fender, and one to the evap purge solenoid on the fender near the battery.
86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
Everything looks like voodoo if you don't understand how it works
On an EFI car, in theory it may run lean with the EGR disconnected, something about less oxygen being present so it delivers less fuel. It also reduces pinging at cruise if the EGR system works. The smog pump garbage is worthless tho.
86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
Everything looks like voodoo if you don't understand how it works
The cruise control on these cars is also controlled by a vacuum. There is a vac line coming off the tree on the firewall that goes to the cruise control servo.
Jason, click on the link in my sig, then look in the "vacuum lines" section - this is pretty much as clean as you can do it, and I still have the EGR and cruise fully operational.
I just find it really messy under the hood. I can't just unplug em all and cap them off, eh? I don't have cruise and couldn't care less about the egr. I'm gonna see what I can do this weekend.
Oh well, in that case just pull the red plastic line off the passanger side branch of the vacuum tree (the one on the left side is for the FPR, leave it plugged), cap off the tree's port, and rip off everything - smog pump, hoses, vacuum lines, solenoids, everything. It'll throw codes for the emissions BS, but you don't care about that anyways. For the cruise just plug the hose that goes from the T-ee check valve to the firewall, you can remove the cruise if you please after that.
I just find it really messy under the hood. I can't just unplug em all and cap them off, eh? I don't have cruise and couldn't care less about the egr. I'm gonna see what I can do this weekend.
Convert to a carb and you too, can also have a clean and simple motor! :heyhey:
2009 Ford F-350 6.4 powerstroke diesel. 1977 Ford F-150 built 300 six, 5 speed trans. 1976 MG MGB roadster, 359w, t5 5 speed. 1996 Kawasaki ninja ZX6R.
My rod is glowing, my bead is clean, my middle name is acetylene
I'm the wierdo that wants to replace the disconnected smog pump solenoids just to get rid of the error codes. They won't have vacuum to them, but I want an 11. I do need to replace the lines running over there. Maybe I'll look around for red and green vacuum lines to keep it the correct coloring.
86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
Everything looks like voodoo if you don't understand how it works
Yea I know...old thread...but if the smog pump solenoids are left hooked up electrically and just the vacuum lines removed...will it still set codes? I have a cobbled mess on my car...most of the plastic lines snapped with a light touch.
Convert to a carb and you too, can also have a clean and simple motor! :heyhey:
+1
On a side note. Instead of leaving the solenoids hooked up, could the harness be shortened, and a dummy load (resistor, contact closure, etc... whatever the computer is looking for.) be hooked up in their place, to remove the codes? If that harness is on a quick connect, it could be made up as a pigtail and even sold on ebay...
Wait, I forget sometimes that most box enthusiasts tend to be cheap like me. LOL.
Owner of the only known 5 speed box wagon with a lift kit.
AKA, Herkimer the Hillbilly SUV.
Axle codes
Open/Lock/Ratio #
-----------------------
G / H / 2.26
B / C / 2.47
8 / M / 2.73
7 / - / 3.07
Y / Z / 3.08
4 / D / 3.42
F / R / 3.45
5 / E / 3.27
6 / W / 3.73
2 / K / 3.55
A / - / 3.63
J / - / 3.85
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