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    Removing Window motor?

    Alright I searched, not my best ability but I did try. Anyway I can't figure out how to remove the window motor from my passenger side front door. I've read about there being spots where to drill to get them out but I don't know where. if there is like a tutorial somewhere that would be much appreiciated. Just a good explination would be good, with pictures is a plus since it's normally easier for me to see it.

    Thanks in advance guys!

    :side note: the motor just makes a click when I hit the swith up or down. I read you should here the gear spinning if it needs to be rebuilt? Do they sometimes bind up? I'm hoping I can just rebuild it and be done with it.
    Resident diesel addict

    #2
    There is rivets that hold it in they are shiny round peaces of aluminium. hope this helps!
    YouTube. FaceBook Crown Vic Group

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      #3
      NO STOP!!!!Don't drill out the rivets,You Will be Sorry if you do.The rivets hold up the entire window regulator assembly,if you drill these out the entire window will come crashing down.There are three dimples near the bottom middle of the door,all within 2in of one another,that need to be drilled out.Just pull the door panel and you will see them.The motors can sometimes bind up and will just make a clicking sound when you hit the switch,so the ones you have may still be rebuildible.

      When I did mine I drilled the holes out with a 1/4in hole saw and then used a small socket screwdriver to remove the bolts holding the motor onto the regulator assembly,can't remember what size the socket was.After the 3 bolts are out,then push the motor away from the drive gear,and it will pop loose.When you reinstall the motor just hold it in place against the drive gear,line up the bolt holes and bolt it up,it will slide into the correct position on its own once the bolts are fully tightened.Reconnect the electrical connection,grease up the regulator assembly,test the window,reinstall the door panel,and enjoy your car even more with all the windows functional.

      Here's a good tip,When you are reinstalling the motor and having to reinsert the bolts threw the small holes in the door and back into the motor bracket to get them screwed in,use a small piece of tape to hold the bolt lightly onto the socket until its screwed in,and you will have a way easier time reinstalling the motors.
      Last edited by LTDMan83; 08-21-2006, 09:29 AM.

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        #4
        Here's a pic I found on supermotors,of the dimples on the front door that need to be drilled out:

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          #5
          Originally posted by Custom87
          When I did mine I drilled the holes out with a 1/4in hole saw
          Correction: Sry,I meant to say 1/2in hole saw,...not 1/4in.

          Comment


            #6
            Thanks Custom87! I got my passenger motor out rebuilt it and got it back in working good as new. My Driver side rear came out but It looks to be an aftermarket since the internals where slightly different. The actual motor on that one was in terrible shape I took it apart cleaned the commutator and the rest of the armature along with the brushes. But it seems to be gone, gotta get to a yard a pull a few. Thanks again!
            Resident diesel addict

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              #7
              I've gotten away with just 1/2" drill bits before, which is handy because I don't own a 1/2" hole saw for metal.
              86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
              5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

              91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

              1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

              Originally posted by phayzer5
              I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

              Comment


                #8
                the hole only has to be big enough to get a 1/4" drive extention through it. You can slip the socket on the extention indsie the door panel.
                Pete ::::>>> resident LED addict and CFI defector LED bulb replacements
                'LTD HPP' 85 Vic (my rusty baby) '06 Honda Reflex 250cc 'Baileys' 91 Vic (faded cream puff) ClifFord 'ODB' 88 P72 (SOLD) '77 LTDII (RIP)
                sigpic
                85HPP's most noteworthy mods: CFI to SEFI conversion w/HO upperstuff headers & flowmasters P71 airbox Towncar seats LED dash light-show center console w/5 gauge package LED 3rd brake light 3G alternator mini starter washer/coolant bottle upgrade Towncar power trunk pull underhood fuse/relay box 16" HPP wheels - police swaybars w/poly rubbers - budget Alpine driven 10 speaker stereo

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                  #9
                  Sorry my bad.... I was thinking about when I took apart the doors to use all the parts on some new doors I got at the junk yard for the 89 GM that we have we used new rivets and everything............DONT DO WHAT I SAID sorry again for leading you astray
                  YouTube. FaceBook Crown Vic Group

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                    #10
                    I just drilled the rivets on mine, no problems at all.
                    2000 Grand Marquis LS
                    2000 F150 XLT 6 inches of lift.
                    1987 Bill Blass Mark VII - Sold
                    1985 Mercury Grand Marquis Colony Park- SOLD. to a little old lady
                    Mercury Owners Group member
                    Save The Whales, Restore an Old Station Wagon!!

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                      #11
                      for the record... there are NO rivets holding the window motor in. only bolts.

                      Rivets hold the regulator to the door, and the regulator to the glass.
                      Pete ::::>>> resident LED addict and CFI defector LED bulb replacements
                      'LTD HPP' 85 Vic (my rusty baby) '06 Honda Reflex 250cc 'Baileys' 91 Vic (faded cream puff) ClifFord 'ODB' 88 P72 (SOLD) '77 LTDII (RIP)
                      sigpic
                      85HPP's most noteworthy mods: CFI to SEFI conversion w/HO upperstuff headers & flowmasters P71 airbox Towncar seats LED dash light-show center console w/5 gauge package LED 3rd brake light 3G alternator mini starter washer/coolant bottle upgrade Towncar power trunk pull underhood fuse/relay box 16" HPP wheels - police swaybars w/poly rubbers - budget Alpine driven 10 speaker stereo

                      Comment


                        #12
                        2000 Grand Marquis LS
                        2000 F150 XLT 6 inches of lift.
                        1987 Bill Blass Mark VII - Sold
                        1985 Mercury Grand Marquis Colony Park- SOLD. to a little old lady
                        Mercury Owners Group member
                        Save The Whales, Restore an Old Station Wagon!!

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Petemang speaks teh truth.
                          1983 Grand Marquis 2Dr Sedan "Mercules"
                          Tremec TKO conversion, hydraulic clutch, HURST equipped!

                          Comment


                            #14
                            So, you're telling me when I drilled out this rivets to remove the motor and regulator from my car that I didn't really do that?
                            2000 Grand Marquis LS
                            2000 F150 XLT 6 inches of lift.
                            1987 Bill Blass Mark VII - Sold
                            1985 Mercury Grand Marquis Colony Park- SOLD. to a little old lady
                            Mercury Owners Group member
                            Save The Whales, Restore an Old Station Wagon!!

                            Comment


                              #15
                              You don't need to pull the regulator to change the motor. It just makes more work. If you drill the dimples, you can pull the 3 bolts holding the motor without disturbing the regulator.
                              86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                              5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                              91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                              1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                              Originally posted by phayzer5
                              I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                              Comment

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