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View Poll Results: What type of exhaust tips should I get?

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Thread: 1982 Ford LTD-S 351W Police Car

  1. #741
    P31 Pursuit Car Brown_Muscle's Avatar
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    Yeah it's been a while since I did an update!

    I sorted out the pinging, it was both the vacuum advance, and the distributor springs being too slack and allowing the max advance too early...so maybe I can try to increase the initial timing and close the throttle a bit. I read that low octane gas can cause dieseling too. Gas is maybe 2-3 months old...probably not the best to tune with.

    I've done some initial wideband tuning...it's much better now, but still have some fine tuning to do. Turns out it was rich not lean..doh

    Apparently its common for lentech valve bodys to CLUNK into 3rd and 4th... I guess I'll get used to it. Downshifts are sluggish, my old trans felt very sporty compared to this one. I think i need to play with the TV pressure a bit more
    Last edited by Brown_Muscle; 05-17-2021 at 08:22 PM.
    -Phil



    +1982 Ford LTD-S Police Car. Built 351w, Trickflow 11R 190 Heads, Edelbrock 1906 Carb+ RPM Intake, WR-AOD, Full exhaust headers to tails. 3.27 Trac-Lok Rear. Aluminum Police Driveshaft. Speedway Springs+Bilstein Shocks, Intermediate Brakes, HPP Steering Box.

    +2003 Acura CL Type S 6-speed

  2. #742
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    if its got the larger OD servo, that also tends to make them clunk on OD engage. Lazy downshifts act like not enough TV pressure though. There is a whole process involving a pressure gauge and a gauge block or drill bit of a specific size to set the cable, but you could cheat and have it so full throttle = full TV and see what that gets you.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  3. #743
    P31 Pursuit Car Brown_Muscle's Avatar
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    So increased TV pressure (basically at the end of the gross rod adjustment) made it much better. All the shifts are firm, but 3rd doesn't have a concerning clunk anymore. I did it's first oil change (about 40 miles worth), and it came out black and shimmery...not concerned. Will do another oil change shortly.

    Water pump started leaking coolant from the gasket...John helped me out and re-sealed it. New fuel pump started leaking oil pretty heavily from the crimped body area. Can't drive it currently, waiting on a NOS Ford one to come (Carter Hi-Flo).

    I also ordered everything to install a contour dual fan setup, It was running kinda hot in traffic on 90* days with the A/C on (around 210), and seems to cruise around 200-205 on the highway. I'm sure it'll be lower on days that aren't super hot, but with the carb I experience all sorts of heat related running issues. I'm going to be using a BMW dual temp switch/fan controller with a thread adapter.

    I'm still going tune the timing and fueling more, but I'm already saving up for the Holley Sniper+Hyperspark setup. It'll be easy to link in the fans at that point as well. I'm tired of the imprecision of a carb, and all its weird quirks. Hardest part will be the fuel tank/pump install. I'm hoping i can hire John to help me out with that. The Sniper itself is easy, and compared to tuning a stock ford computer, its a breeze from what i've seen.
    -Phil



    +1982 Ford LTD-S Police Car. Built 351w, Trickflow 11R 190 Heads, Edelbrock 1906 Carb+ RPM Intake, WR-AOD, Full exhaust headers to tails. 3.27 Trac-Lok Rear. Aluminum Police Driveshaft. Speedway Springs+Bilstein Shocks, Intermediate Brakes, HPP Steering Box.

    +2003 Acura CL Type S 6-speed

  4. #744
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    are you running a return style fuel system? That tends to do a lot to help make it consistent in the heat. Fuel boiling in the pump or in the filter if its too close to the intake causes mass stupidity. A spacer under the carb to insulate it from the heat also helps a lot, even if its just one of those thick gaskets rather than the thin jobbies.

    distributor curve has a lot to do with how things act too, won't do dick about idle issues but it makes a lot of difference in how the throttle responds

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  5. #745
    P31 Pursuit Car Brown_Muscle's Avatar
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    are you running a return style fuel system? That tends to do a lot to help make it consistent in the heat. Fuel boiling in the pump or in the filter if its too close to the intake causes mass stupidity. A spacer under the carb to insulate it from the heat also helps a lot, even if its just one of those thick gaskets rather than the thin jobbies.

    distributor curve has a lot to do with how things act too, won't do dick about idle issues but it makes a lot of difference in how the throttle responds
    No return from the carb-if i wasn't going fuel injected i would consider that though. I do have an insulator, and that helps a bit. I think the timing curve is nowhere near where it should be for the engine..so we will see what i can do with it. I have tape for the balancer, springs, and i can open/close the weights to control total mechanical advance. But ultimately I'd rather type in some numbers in a computer lol.

    The fan came earlier than expected.. So I made mounts for it and put it in. Might as well have the car even more inoperable than it is! I'm not terribly thrilled about wiring it up...even if it is pretty simple.

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    Last edited by Brown_Muscle; 05-25-2021 at 05:39 PM.
    -Phil



    +1982 Ford LTD-S Police Car. Built 351w, Trickflow 11R 190 Heads, Edelbrock 1906 Carb+ RPM Intake, WR-AOD, Full exhaust headers to tails. 3.27 Trac-Lok Rear. Aluminum Police Driveshaft. Speedway Springs+Bilstein Shocks, Intermediate Brakes, HPP Steering Box.

    +2003 Acura CL Type S 6-speed

  6. #746
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    was the stock fuel pump a 3 line? If so it would be nothing to put that return back in service.

    I kind of go back and forth between a keyboard and a screwdriver as the tuning method. I can appreciate the mechanical simplicity of things, but being able to micro-adjust things on the fly has it's advantages too. The problem for me is that I don't quite know enough to be able to just spit out values for fuel or ignition, I just understand the device enough to actually make a change. One of these days I'll own another carb vehicle, but it has to be something significantly different than I already own, and I want nothing to do with electronic feedback carb bullshit. Anything I mess with would be straight out of like 1970 before the emissions stuff. I'm totally fine with the idea of clean burning, environmentally friendly cars but trying to get that done before EFI was a nightmare that I want nothing to do with.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  7. #747
    I post a lot... mitymerc's Avatar
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    That engine looks sweet! Hope you get it running tip top soon.



    87 Ford LTD Crown Victoria Country Squire Station Wagon. 4.10's, Repacked Trac Loc, Boxed LCA's, Explorer Intake, 65mm T-body, 'Stang Cam, 'Stang Air tube, K&N, GT-40X Heads, 1" Spacer, 1 5/8 BBK's, 2.5" Pypes X-pipe w/high flow cats, Single Chamber Thunderbolts, B&M 'vertor, Po-lice Swaybars.

    91 Mercury Grand Marquis Colony Park Station Wagon. K-Code, 4.10's, Repacked Trac Loc, MK VII LSC Engine, 'Stang Upper Intake, Stang Air Tube, K&N, 65 mm T-Body, 'Stang Headers, 'Stang Cat Pipe,'Stang Torque Convertor, 2 Chamber Thunderbolts.

  8. #748
    Member of the Orb Alliance packman's Avatar
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    Nice installation! Wish my BeCool had mounting flanges. Woulda made the installation process easier.

  9. #749
    The Brown Blob 87gtVIC's Avatar
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    The fan fits really well in there. Hope it helps you out.
    ~David~

    My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
    My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

  10. #750
    P31 Pursuit Car Brown_Muscle's Avatar
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    Gadget- it is a 3 pump line, and the return there does work. So it's technically a return system, just not at the carb where it needs it.

    Much progress! Fans are fully functional now, both come on at low, and high speeds. My heater core blew doing a WOT run...I'm not surprised, even with the restrictor in its about 40 years old. So I pulled the dash and installed a new aluminum unit. Hopefully this one will hold up better. I also repaired one of the doors inside that had broken...using plastic as a hinge wasn't the best idea on fords part.

    I swapped some labor with John and he installed a new HPP steering box, lines, and pitman arm (big thanks!). Steering is way heavier, and more responsive. It doesn't come back to center at lower speeds as much as I was expecting, but maybe that's normal. It still needs an alignment.

    I believe the steering box is the last mechanical part on the car to get replaced :O The philosophical question arises: is this the same car I got 14 years ago, or is it something different.
    -Phil



    +1982 Ford LTD-S Police Car. Built 351w, Trickflow 11R 190 Heads, Edelbrock 1906 Carb+ RPM Intake, WR-AOD, Full exhaust headers to tails. 3.27 Trac-Lok Rear. Aluminum Police Driveshaft. Speedway Springs+Bilstein Shocks, Intermediate Brakes, HPP Steering Box.

    +2003 Acura CL Type S 6-speed

  11. #751
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    normally the major boiling issue is in the pump itself. Fuel sits in there and gets really hot so it doesn't take much to flash it off in the line running up. With a return system you should have relatively cool fuel feeding to the carb at all times rather than something that is seriously pre-heated. If you run the line up to the carb and keep it away from heat as much as possible it shouldn't get so hot in the carb that it boils. If it does, a spacer ought to help with that and maybe some insulation on the fuel feed.


    alignment is very key to getting decent return to center. Not enough caster or no toe-in will make it sort of vague in the middle.

    My car has the same VIN and spiteful tendencies so as far as I'm concerned its the same car. I think a lower percentage of mine is actually what I bought years ago than yours is though. Most of your body is at least original, large parts of mine are not.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  12. #752
    P31 Pursuit Car Brown_Muscle's Avatar
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    That makes sense, it's really only when it sits for a few minutes after running that there's a problem. If it's actively running/moving, no real problem with the fuel.

    If i remember correctly caster is in the +5.xx area, and toe was slightly inwards, however maybe changing the box/pitman/idler arm changed that
    -Phil



    +1982 Ford LTD-S Police Car. Built 351w, Trickflow 11R 190 Heads, Edelbrock 1906 Carb+ RPM Intake, WR-AOD, Full exhaust headers to tails. 3.27 Trac-Lok Rear. Aluminum Police Driveshaft. Speedway Springs+Bilstein Shocks, Intermediate Brakes, HPP Steering Box.

    +2003 Acura CL Type S 6-speed

  13. #753
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    yeah may have, worth a check at least. Also unfortunately not all rebuilds are created equal. Sometimes they take a sloppy steering box and just put new seals and fresh paint on.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  14. #754
    GMN Regular slack's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73 View Post
    yeah may have, worth a check at least. Also unfortunately not all rebuilds are created equal. Sometimes they take a sloppy steering box and just put new seals and fresh paint on.
    Had this happen with the first steering box I put in my CV. It was just as sloppy as the one I pulled. I drove it like that for a while before finally buying another. I think the final one I put in there was an AC Delco one and it was much better. The first one I put in was the RockAuto cheapo-special.


    '78 LTD | '87 Grand Marquis | '89 Crown Vic (RIP) | '91 Grand Marquis (RIP) | '94 Town Car (RIP) | '97 Town Car (RIP)

  15. #755
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brown_Muscle View Post
    Gadget- it is a 3 pump line, and the return there does work. So it's technically a return system, just not at the carb where it needs it.

    Much progress! Fans are fully functional now, both come on at low, and high speeds. My heater core blew doing a WOT run...I'm not surprised, even with the restrictor in its about 40 years old. So I pulled the dash and installed a new aluminum unit. Hopefully this one will hold up better. I also repaired one of the doors inside that had broken...using plastic as a hinge wasn't the best idea on fords part.

    I swapped some labor with John and he installed a new HPP steering box, lines, and pitman arm (big thanks!). Steering is way heavier, and more responsive. It doesn't come back to center at lower speeds as much as I was expecting, but maybe that's normal. It still needs an alignment.

    I believe the steering box is the last mechanical part on the car to get replaced :O The philosophical question arises: is this the same car I got 14 years ago, or is it something different.
    Was the WOT run made for tuning purposes; or did you break-in the engine already?

    In regard to your philosophical question: no it is not. My Malibu turned into a different car after the Cragars and full exhaust was installed. The Crown Vic is currently morphing into something else; at least when I look at the old engine bay pics from 2009.

  16. #756
    P31 Pursuit Car Brown_Muscle's Avatar
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    The box is very tight and responsive, not sloppy at all. It's return to center after going around a corner is just not as fast as most modern cars i've driven...this may be normal, I'm not certain. Were all your rebuilds Ford/Motorcraft's, or different brands, I was able to grab up a motorcraft one thankfully

    The WOT run was for tuning purposes, she's had 3 oil changes so far, but also limited to 4500rpm by the trans. For all intensive purposes she's broken in (having plasma-moly rings and roller everything, like a modern engine) it was probably broken in after a few hundred miles, if not sooner. However I wont modify the valve body to shift at 5600rpm until i switch to synthetic oil...just as a precaution.
    -Phil



    +1982 Ford LTD-S Police Car. Built 351w, Trickflow 11R 190 Heads, Edelbrock 1906 Carb+ RPM Intake, WR-AOD, Full exhaust headers to tails. 3.27 Trac-Lok Rear. Aluminum Police Driveshaft. Speedway Springs+Bilstein Shocks, Intermediate Brakes, HPP Steering Box.

    +2003 Acura CL Type S 6-speed

  17. #757
    Beater gonna beat sly's Avatar
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    there's no return spring on the older gear boxes. The return to center is based on caster alignment. If you've got one of those, that could be the issue.

    Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
    rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
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  18. #758
    Told ya everything I know when I said hello P72Ford's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brown_Muscle View Post
    Gadget- it is a 3 pump line, and the return there does work. So it's technically a return system, just not at the carb where it needs it.

    Much progress! Fans are fully functional now, both come on at low, and high speeds. My heater core blew doing a WOT run...I'm not surprised, even with the restrictor in its about 40 years old. So I pulled the dash and installed a new aluminum unit. Hopefully this one will hold up better. I also repaired one of the doors inside that had broken...using plastic as a hinge wasn't the best idea on fords part.

    I swapped some labor with John and he installed a new HPP steering box, lines, and pitman arm (big thanks!). Steering is way heavier, and more responsive. It doesn't come back to center at lower speeds as much as I was expecting, but maybe that's normal. It still needs an alignment.

    I believe the steering box is the last mechanical part on the car to get replaced :O The philosophical question arises: is this the same car I got 14 years ago, or is it something different.
    Just a thought, I put a brass valve in my heater core feed hose. I left it closed most of the time unless I knew I needed heat/ defrost. I spent a lot of time at or near the 6250 limiter without an issue.

    Also... not with a panther but I had a bitch of a time boiling the fuel out of the Holley 4160 on my '75 F250 390. It had a low rise aluminum single plane intake (yes, single plane...) and after driving a bit you could shut it off and hear the fuel boiling in the bowls. Took me a while to figure out the hot start issue; I initially thought it was the battery cables and went as far as 1/0 replacement cables (damn thing turned over like there were no plugs in it). I wrapped the fuel line and that helped. I made a heat sink (3/16" AL plate) to install over a phenolic gasket, but never got it installed. The current owner told me it worked great though, and is hidden under the original style air cleaner pretty well.
    **2012 Ford Mustang Boss 302: 5.0/ 6 spd/ 3.73s, 17K Cruiser
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  19. #759
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    When I replaced the valve cover gasket in Putter Project, I had to remove part of the fuel line because it was laid across the top of the valve cover and ran down the side of the block. Didn't have any vapor lock issues with that truck; but when the fuel pump started leaking, I eliminated it, blocked it off, and put a Holley Red pump near the tank. Then ran a combo of 3/8" aluminum tubing and 6AN hose for the fuel system. Truck still fires up and runs fairly good for a 600k engine. Wish I knew how to do fuel lines when I had the Malibu. That had the same setup as Putter Project and would vapor lock bad on days like this.

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