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Thread: My '85 MGM, "Maisa"

  1. #261
    Lost and driftin' Arquemann's Avatar
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    I hit a bit of a snag while changing the oil: the oil filter is installed to approximately 788 ft lbs. I cannot get it off.

    I've fought with it for 3 hours and I have literally only the base of the filter left on the block. I've used pliers to clamp vice grips tighter than hell, I've hammered it from the side with a chisel and screwdriver, to no avail.

    Could I unbolt the oil filter bung? I mean the fitting that goes inbetween the block and filter, on what the filter screws on to.
    LMR shows it having a big hex end on it, would it be the same on panthers?
    https://lmr.com/item/LRS-6890A/1979-...il-Filter-Bung
    1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, "Maisa"
    2008 BMW 530d Touring, "Femma"

  2. #262
    Lost and driftin' Arquemann's Avatar
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    Well, dad helped me get it off finally. Two of the least bendiest screwdriver stuck to two holes and a fucking crowbar to twist it loose.
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    To the US-specialist mechanic who changed the oil last time: Fuck you.
    Last edited by Arquemann; 04-17-2021 at 11:43 AM.
    1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, "Maisa"
    2008 BMW 530d Touring, "Femma"

  3. #263
    fomoco panthers !
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    I have had that happen a few times through the years. All because some lube monkey tightened the filter with a wrench after getting it hand tight or did not apply a tiny bit of fresh oil to the seal to the new filter before installing. Maybe even cross threaded the filter. Glad you got it off. I have had to do the screwdriver through the side trick when the filters were made stronger.
    About two years ago I caught a "mechanic" over tighten the filter on my 75 Ford with a wrench tight ! I chewed his ass out right there in the shop. I was expecting a fist fight.( I would have maced him) He never touched my car again.

  4. #264
    Lost and driftin' Arquemann's Avatar
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    Got the oil change done. Rear drain plug wasn't very tight and was wet, along with the whole pan from the crossmember back.
    I was also able to tighten the oil level sensor about an 8th of a turn without too much force.
    In went some 10W-40 High mileage oil, nothing special but not cheap garbage either.

    While I had the car on jackstands, I took off the brake calipers and took a look at the brakes to see why they might be pulsating. Rotors look good by eye, very slight grooves and lip, but no hotspots or discoloration. Pads have worn pretty evenly and have plenty of life left, they're old though. Cleaned and greased the slidepins and slapped them back together.
    1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, "Maisa"
    2008 BMW 530d Touring, "Femma"

  5. #265
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    not that it helps now, but yes the threaded part in the middle does unscrew from the block. I don't remember if its got an internal hex or not. There is an external hex that would sit between the filter and the block though, but of course with a filter in the way you aren't getting to that.

    and yes people that crank oil filters on that tight should be whipped with a filter wrench.

    Check the steering for slop. I had shaky brakes on the Conti and it turned out to be bad rack bushings. If you've got some loose thing in the steering its possible one of the wheels is allowed to flop around more than it should. Tie rod ends, idler arm, and pitman arm are likely suspects. Try pulling the tire left/right while its on stands and see if things slop around.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  6. #266
    Lost and driftin' Arquemann's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73 View Post
    Check the steering for slop. I had shaky brakes on the Conti and it turned out to be bad rack bushings. If you've got some loose thing in the steering its possible one of the wheels is allowed to flop around more than it should. Tie rod ends, idler arm, and pitman arm are likely suspects. Try pulling the tire left/right while its on stands and see if things slop around.
    Dunno about that... The steering feels surprisingly tight in this thing. There's some on-center vagueness, but I wouldn't expect anything less from a 35yo boat with a steering box. All the tierods are absolutely filthy and covered with greasy crap, but feel pretty tight when pried on.

    I'm thinking about replacing the tierod ends and getting an alignment anyways, but I'll wait until the annual inspection next month.
    1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, "Maisa"
    2008 BMW 530d Touring, "Femma"

  7. #267
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    the other thing that can do it is out of round drums. If your parking brake releases correctly, pull the release handle and step on the parking brake pedal while moving. If you get the same shudder, its the drums.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  8. #268
    Lost and driftin' Arquemann's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73 View Post
    the other thing that can do it is out of round drums. If your parking brake releases correctly, pull the release handle and step on the parking brake pedal while moving. If you get the same shudder, its the drums.
    The brake pulsating is most obvious with light braking and lower speeds. Do the rear drums get nearly as much action at low brake pressure?
    I have the automatic e-brake release so I don't know to go about testing the drums, as far as I know, the manual release isn't exactly easy to reach especially when moving.
    1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, "Maisa"
    2008 BMW 530d Touring, "Femma"

  9. #269
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    if the auto release works, then no issue. If it doesn't, maybe use a coat hanger to hold it released. Basically the idea is to not have the brake stay on and burn the shoes.

    dunno, just trying to rule out possibilities here, and this is easy and free. I hate spending money and effort only to find out I have not actually fixed a problem.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  10. #270
    Lost and driftin' Arquemann's Avatar
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    Hmmm...
    I had to pick up my sister and I did try the e-brake. But I'm not sure, it seemed to pulsate a bit once or twice, but couldn't really get a definite answer with the short drive. Needs more testing.
    Gadget you might be onto something.

    Initially I had ruled out the rear brakes due to brake bias, but since these have drums in the rear, things might behave a bit different.
    1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, "Maisa"
    2008 BMW 530d Touring, "Femma"

  11. #271
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    Hmmm... Pt. 2

    I cannot replicate the pulsing brakes with the E-brake, what I felt initially and a couple other times was probably just unevenness on the road and something else. I know this car tends to buck on decel / engine brake, why. I don't know.

    Haven't seen new engine oil drips on the driveway, only power steering fluid so far. I'm doubtful, but the engine oil leaks could've just been a combination of the rear drain plug and level sensor. I've got new valve cover gaskets waiting to be installed, but I've had a set of chrome stock valve covers, but I can't find them anywhere. Dunno if I'll paint the old ones to spruce up the engine bay or just leave 'em be.

    I'll most likely order new power steering lines at some point, those are easy. I've watched a couple videos on rebuilding the Ford PS pumps and I'm not sure if I'm comfortable taking apart something that fiddly quite yet. I'd also require quite a bit of disassembly of the car and thus having it immobile for some time.


    And finally:
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    I get to represent!
    1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, "Maisa"
    2008 BMW 530d Touring, "Femma"

  12. #272
    Wagon Addicted Tiggie's Avatar
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    Clean up the PS pump and see where it's leaking. The reservoir and pressure hose o rings are easy to put in. The shaft seal isn't too bad either but you have to pull the pulley with a tool. All included with the ~$8 seal kit. Best money I've spent on both my boxes.
    1990 Country Squire - weekend cruiser, next project
    1988 Crown Vic LTD Wagon - waiting in the wings

    GMN Box Panther History
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  13. #273
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    the body, regulator, and shaft seal aren't any big deal but I'd vote for leaving the actual inner bits alone if its working otherwise. Its two O rings and a seal, no big deal at all. The seal kit may come with a new O ring for the cap / dipstick, also simple to change.

    I attempted a full rebuild on one once, taking the insides apart, it never worked again. Doesn't leak, perfectly silent, absolutely zero pressure.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  14. #274
    Lost and driftin' Arquemann's Avatar
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    Let's jump from a thing to another! Idle settings and throttle kicker.

    Since getting the engine running somewhat good last spring, the hot idle has been quite high, it's high and sounds bit off in park/neutral. And in gear it seems fine but a bit high. The engine also vibrates a lot more in park when it idles high. In gear it's almost as smooth as I'd expect a shitty old 302 to be.

    I remember someone here saying the throttle kicker response is adjustable, that might get the P/N idle lower, and generally I'd like to have it run a bit lower RPM. The high idle mechanism/choke is broken and inop, so no issues there.

    This is how the car sounds at hot idle in gear, at the tailpipe. I'd like it to sound about like this when in park, not in gear...
    https://drive.google.com/file/d/1eVM...ew?usp=sharing

    And this is how it's when in park or neutral. Idles high and does a plop plop plop.
    https://drive.google.com/file/d/1EUE...ew?usp=sharing

    Hopefully the links work.

    EDIT: I'm gonna check the RPM with a gauge at some point too.
    Last edited by Arquemann; 04-28-2021 at 09:35 AM.
    1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, "Maisa"
    2008 BMW 530d Touring, "Femma"

  15. #275
    2 decades of DDing Box Panthers, now in a Whale VicCrownVic's Avatar
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    Sounds to me like you are right about the idle being high.
    Unfortunately I don't have any suggestions, but at least you have a vote of your assessment seems correct on the idle being high.
    Once you have your gauge hooked up, I expect it will confirm your assessment.
    Vic

    ~ 1998 Mercury Grand Marquis LS - new DD
    ~ 1991 Mercury Grand Marquis LS "The Scab" - plenty of rot, summer DD
    ~ 1997 GMC Yukon - wannabe winter DD - returning sometime in the 2020s, I finally have an engine
    ~ 1991 Mercury Grand Marquis GS "The Ice Car" - Rotting Retired Winter DD
    ~ 1989 Mercury Grand Marquis GS - Rotting Retired DD
    Gone but not forgotten:
    ~ 1988 Country Squire ~ 1987 Ford Crown Vic

  16. #276

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    Do not mess with the throttle kicker/dashpot. Verify high idle and warm idle are correct with a tach then do a base idle reset.

    My 85 vic would race sometimes because the throttle would get stuck on the high idle cam, I think the choke cap was broken and the previous owner messed with the high idle cam screw.


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  17. #277
    Lost and driftin' Arquemann's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 87GrandMarq View Post
    Do not mess with the throttle kicker/dashpot. Verify high idle and warm idle are correct with a tach then do a base idle reset.
    How does one go about doing a base idle reset and what's the curb idle RPM supposed to be?

    The choke/high idle mechanism is broken on mine as I mentioned, so it won't come into play at all. My car is a summer car anyways, it manages the coldest starts it does.
    The throttle kicker does work on mine, atleast the it seems to respond to the AC kicking on.
    1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, "Maisa"
    2008 BMW 530d Touring, "Femma"

  18. #278
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    Is the high idle thing wired so the cam isn't engaged? If not you're probably sitting on the high idle cam and the normal idle adjustment isn't going to work. Make sure the cam is pulled up before messing with anything.

    The low idle adjust is the screw at the bottom of the throttle kicker that moves the "sled" in and out. The plunger is the idle stop, and when the AC is turned on you get vacuum on the kicker to push it out a bit further. Might be worth unhooking the vac line to make sure the solenoid isn't engaged or leaking otherwise it won't set correctly either.

    idle spec is probably on the emissions label under the hood, but if not somewhere in the 700 rpm range is likely not far off.

    so far as I know there is no "base idle reset" procedure on the CFI cars. Thats a SEFI thing with an idle speed controller. CFI is closer to dealing with a carb than it is to dealing with fuel injection.


    https://workshop-manuals.com/ford/mu...nts/curb_idle/

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  19. #279
    Lost and driftin' Arquemann's Avatar
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    Well, I got the idle to a pretty reasonable rpm. I didn't find the rpm gauge to verify, but it's pretty good now. I might raise it a bit since in gear it's so low it's a bit shaky, but it doesn't bog too much when put into gear.
    Only thing now is that since the high idle system is borked, it needs a bit of right foot encouragement after cold starts to stay running.
    I also made sure the high idle cam stays out of the way at all times.
    Emissions sticker says idle in gear should be 550 rpm.

    The throttle kicker does get some vacuum at idle with the engine hot and AC/heater off, but seems to react correctly to the ac kicking on.

    I took a pic with my friends Fiesta. '84 Ferd vs '85 Merc.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Back bumpers are even, the Fiesta's firewall is just in front of the MGM's rear door
    Last edited by Arquemann; 04-29-2021 at 04:10 PM.
    1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, "Maisa"
    2008 BMW 530d Touring, "Femma"

  20. #280
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    You two should definitely exchange plates!

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