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Thread: My '85 MGM, "Maisa"

  1. #321
    Beater gonna beat sly's Avatar
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    Check the vacuum tree. There should be a check valve with two lines coming out of the end away from the tree. One goes to the soup can on the driver fender (vacuum reservoir) and the other goes to the HVAC system. Even if that check valve is bad, the system should work fine at idle (high vacuum). If any of that is not connected, or a line is broken, you'll get heat through the defrost vents only as that's the default setting with no vacuum to the HVAC system. Under the hood, the blend door is actuated by vacuum if you have the automatic temperature control. Also, there's a hose from the cabin temp sensor to the firewall on the passenger side behind the glove box. If that comes off the firewall, you'll get weird happenings.

    Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
    rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73
    ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
    Quote Originally Posted by dmccaig
    Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

  2. #322
    Lost and driftin' Arquemann's Avatar
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    So uhhhhhhh. I fiddlefucked with the stuff. I did nothing, or I'm pretty sure I changed nothing. I don't know maaan... But but but now the heat/cold works again.

    The line that sly mentioned going from the check valve to the HVAC system still leaks vacuum, nothing new there. also the check valve is good.


    BUUUUT still the AC compressor stays on constantly, like going non-stop for as long as you let it, which isn't okay. 45 seconds of idling and shutting it off has drier/accumulator hissing like a wild cat and getting reaaaaal cold. I had to unplug the low pressure sensor to stop it doing that.
    So what in the nine hells is causing that now?

    I do have ATC btw.
    What does the cabin temp sensor look like, couldn't figure out where it is / see it by sly's description. An image would be bloody great too.
    1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, "Maisa"
    2008 BMW 530d Touring, "Femma"

  3. #323
    The Brown Blob 87gtVIC's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Arquemann View Post
    So uhhhhhhh. I fiddlefucked with the stuff. I did nothing, or I'm pretty sure I changed nothing. I don't know maaan... But but but now the heat/cold works again.

    The line that sly mentioned going from the check valve to the HVAC system still leaks vacuum, nothing new there. also the check valve is good.


    BUUUUT still the AC compressor stays on constantly, like going non-stop for as long as you let it, which isn't okay. 45 seconds of idling and shutting it off has drier/accumulator hissing like a wild cat and getting reaaaaal cold. I had to unplug the low pressure sensor to stop it doing that.
    So what in the nine hells is causing that now?

    I do have ATC btw.
    What does the cabin temp sensor look like, couldn't figure out where it is / see it by sly's description. An image would be bloody great too.
    It is located passengers side just above the glove box. You can see a cut out in the dash trim where it samples interior air temp. To gain access to it you kinda need to remove dash pad and fiddle with it from either up there or from under the passengers side foot well. Its not the easiest to access. Two 7/32 or 9/32 fasteners iirc.
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  4. #324
    Lost and driftin' Arquemann's Avatar
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    Am I going on a goose chase finding the cabin temp sensor? Since my temperature control seems to be working correctly again...

    Does the ac compressor have a thermostatic switch? Or what else controls the compressor activation?
    Anything to check? I have literally no clue on how to move forwards on this, except for the cabin temp sensor maybe.

    I have never used the auto fan setting on the heater, but the automatic temp control is kinda nice when it works.
    1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, "Maisa"
    2008 BMW 530d Touring, "Femma"

  5. #325
    Wagon Addicted Tiggie's Avatar
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    Need more specifics about "constant". How long did it run? Did you change the rpm at all?

    At idle and certain temperatures, you might hit the sweet spot of very long times on between cycles, if it cycles at all. Bring up the RPM and it should cycle. Getting frosty is a good sign.
    1990 Country Squire - weekend cruiser, next project
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  6. #326
    Beater gonna beat sly's Avatar
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    The AC compressor does not have any switches. There's the low pressure switch near the dryer and that's it. Once the refrigerant reaches a steady state (typically a few cycles after initially turning on), the compressor regularly runs constantly. This is on 134a systems. On R12 systems, this can also be the case on hot days. Cycling will only occur if pressure actually gets below about 15psi on the low side. If you put a gauge on the low side and it does get below 10psi, the low pressure switch is bad. Replace it and you should be fine. If the line never gets below 40psi, the orifice tube may be blown out.

    Without putting a gauge on the system, you're not going to know what is keeping the compressor on.

    Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
    rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73
    ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
    Quote Originally Posted by dmccaig
    Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

  7. #327
    Lost and driftin' Arquemann's Avatar
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    Hmmm, this needs further testing then.

    Usually the compressor kicks on for maybe 10-15 seconds, shuts off for maybe double that and kicks back on again, and that goes as long as I have the car running.
    Today it just runs constantly, as in the clutch is engaged non-stop and the compressor makes a helluva lot of noise. Longest I had it run for about a minute straight, that was all idle though.
    1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, "Maisa"
    2008 BMW 530d Touring, "Femma"

  8. #328
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    Definitely need gauges. These systems are designed to run constantly. Obviously will cycle more in cooler weather, but will probably still find a stable state for minutes at a time.

    Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
    rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73
    ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
    Quote Originally Posted by dmccaig
    Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

  9. #329
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    thats nothing vacuum related. The switch to turn on power to the compressor is in the climate control in the dash. Guessing its messed up, though I've never run into one that failed in that specific way. It should only be fed power when its in AC or defrost modes. Temperature control is independant of compressor power. You can turn the thing to full hot in AC mode, you'll get hot air and AC compressor.

    unless someone has been in the dash and fucked around with the wiring, which is totally possible.

    If it cycles, thats the low pressure switch cutting power to the compressor. If the switch failed shorted or the wires to the switch melted together it might do this, but you still should not be getting any power to the compressor unless you have AC mode selected. Pressure switch screws into the black or silver can on the passenger sie of the engine compartment, right against the firewall. Should be poking out of the side with a 2 wire plug on it. I've had multiple junk pressure switches, just replaced one on the Continental last week that was keeping the AC from running. They can stick on though.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
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    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

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  10. #330
    Lost and driftin' Arquemann's Avatar
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    Well good news!

    It fixed itself! The ac compressor and heater behaviour has gone back to normal. And normal being what it has been for the last two years. At this point I don't really know if I should care if my normal is wrong or right, since it works
    Now it does the basic cycling thing couple times a minute and I get warm, cold and inbetween and all the heater controls seem do what they're supposed to.



    So, back to the smog delete. What length belt should I get for the pump delete? Or do I need to route the belt different or need an idler in place of the smog pump?
    I'm probably going to leave the metal air tubes in place for now and cap them with something. I'd really like to remove the air hoses and solenoid mess and the pump is coming out since the pulley wobbles alot.
    1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, "Maisa"
    2008 BMW 530d Touring, "Femma"

  11. #331
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    Shorter belt and route over the tensioner pulley is what I did. IIRC, the belt was a K060560.
    http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthre...ight=smog+belt

    Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
    rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73
    ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
    Quote Originally Posted by dmccaig
    Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

  12. #332
    Lost and driftin' Arquemann's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sly View Post
    Shorter belt and route over the tensioner pulley is what I did. IIRC, the belt was a K060560.
    http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthre...ight=smog+belt
    56" is 1422,4mm, and I should be able to get a 1420mm belt just over the counter. We shall see. First I need a day that isn't all RAIN.
    1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, "Maisa"
    2008 BMW 530d Touring, "Femma"

  13. #333
    Beater gonna beat sly's Avatar
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    As a side note... if you have the original tensioner pulley with the huge guides, you may have to remove the positioning bolt from the back side (the one that locks the pulley in place) after loosening it and the pivot bolt to get the belt over the lip. Once the belt is over the lip, the bolt will go back in. You might also run the top section of belt under the pulley. I think both ways will clear. I know my OCD preferred the look of the over the top method with the smog pump gone.

    Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
    rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73
    ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
    Quote Originally Posted by dmccaig
    Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

  14. #334
    Lost and driftin' Arquemann's Avatar
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    My beemer came with rubber mats uo front and canvas in the back. Since it's going to be a winter car, I bought new rubber mats for the rear.

    The bmw rear mats fit quite well in the MGM, except for the color.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    The aftermarket mats in the MGM are shit anyways, now I gotta figure out some matching up front.
    Last edited by Arquemann; 05-21-2021 at 09:40 AM.
    1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, "Maisa"
    2008 BMW 530d Touring, "Femma"

  15. #335
    Lost and driftin' Arquemann's Avatar
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    I've been pondering on the wheel / tire question and came to the conclusion that I want to keep this car on the steelies, for now.
    But the horrible sunken in back wheels have to be addressed. I've decided to go with spacers.
    I measured the wheel studs and they are about 33mm in length, so I should be good with 35mm of spacer. Currently I've got about 70mm of gap from the tire to the arch, so I should be able to fit 235s in the rear, with the spacers.
    Spacers are cheap, and they can be removed to pass inspection. No need to modify anything either.

    I thought about getting a pair of the steelies to a wheel shop to get widened or the backspacing reduced. That would cost somewhere around 120€ for two rims, plus having to refinish and paint them. Also reversed / widened steelies are illegal in Finland, though I haven't actually heard anyone getting ticketed for them. Usually cops and inspection guys just warn or wag a finger about them.

    Getting bigger and better wheels would be great, except they cost a bunch of money and there isn't really anything interesting used for sale.


    She's finally getting the alignment done next monday. The shop guy confirmed that they can do it, testfitted the alignment projectors/prisms onto the car.
    I'll probably order the spacers some day, then see about ordering new rear tires.
    1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, "Maisa"
    2008 BMW 530d Touring, "Femma"

  16. #336
    Lost and driftin' Arquemann's Avatar
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    Did a little spring cleaning today, thorough vacuum and dusting, cleaned the windows and adjusted the hood latch so the front corners don't flop.
    The car keeps on reminding me that plush is really shitty to vacuum. Still better than leather because it's less sweaty on hot days.
    Was going to apply vinyl and leather care stuff on the dash and door panels, except the relatively warm day got the dash absolutely scorching hot.

    Also ordered up a pair of 25mm bolt-on spacer and a pair of 8mm pancakes. It might be a little close to the wheel studs but nothing a little flap disk can't deal with.
    1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, "Maisa"
    2008 BMW 530d Touring, "Femma"

  17. #337
    Lost and driftin' Arquemann's Avatar
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    I loosened the AC/smog belt today and felt around. The smog pump doesn't feel as bad as it looks, but it does have some slop in the shaft. It does make some nasty scratching noises when turned, but there's basically zero resistance on turning it.
    Guess I'll leave it be for now, if it gets worse and shreds / throws a belt, I'll get to it.

    Are the metal fitting pieces check valves? The ones where the rubber hoses end from the Thermactor and change into metal pipes to the backs of the cyl heads and to cats.
    I kinda want to clean up the Thermactor mess except for the metal pipes.


    A couple quick pics from yesterdays sunset cruise:
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    1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, "Maisa"
    2008 BMW 530d Touring, "Femma"

  18. #338
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    I have 1 1/4" (32mm) spacers on mine and it works, just have to watch the height of the lug nuts to make sure they don't sit past the top of the spacer. Not sure if those steel wheels have clearance dimples around the holes or not.

    and make sure you torque the spacers properly. I had a stupid moment and it ended up with a wheel coming off the car.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  19. #339
    Member of the Orb Alliance packman's Avatar
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    Nice car; great background

  20. #340
    Lost and driftin' Arquemann's Avatar
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    Got the car back from the alignment, right wheel was cambered in awfully lot, causing the inside wear. Seems a bit sharper to drive now too. Guy commented that all of the joints have barely have any play in them, which is great to hear, since they all look like shit.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Steering wheel is still a bit crooked, less so now, but to the other direction Is the steering wheel keyed to the steering shaft or just splined? I'd like to adjust it a bit if possible.
    1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, "Maisa"
    2008 BMW 530d Touring, "Femma"

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