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Thread: My '85 MGM, "Maisa"

  1. #341
    The Brown Blob 87gtVIC's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Arquemann View Post
    Got the car back from the alignment, right wheel was cambered in awfully lot, causing the inside wear. Seems a bit sharper to drive now too. Guy commented that all of the joints have barely have any play in them, which is great to hear, since they all look like shit.
    Attachment 56369
    Steering wheel is still a bit crooked, less so now, but to the other direction Is the steering wheel keyed to the steering shaft or just splined? I'd like to adjust it a bit if possible.
    This is a huge gripe I have with alignment shops. Align your car and then give you a crooked steering wheel. Is that a different service that they provide? Seems silly to me.


    I dont believe it is adjustable from up top. After doing my own alignment on my Crown Victoria I had to continually mess with the toe by adjusting the adjusting sleeves in unison to keep toe correct BUT get steering wheel centered. PITA. Maybe why alignment shops don't bother. lol
    ~David~

    My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
    My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

  2. #342
    GMN Regular WagonMan's Avatar
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    I just paid $150 to have my front end aligned on my Superbird. Steering wheel is off about two inches from being centered. I complained and they said it was because the tires are worn uneven. Car runs true and doesn't pull left or right. Luckily I can remove the one fat spline on the steering wheel and center the wheel myself. WagonMan
    1990 Colony Park
    1970 HEMI Superbird

  3. #343
    Lost and driftin' Arquemann's Avatar
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    Eh, I think I'll just leave it be if the steering wheel can't be adjusted. It's maybe 15-20 degrees to the right, used to be probably nearly 40 degrees to the left.
    It feels so off now, I've driven the car for over 2 seasons with the crooked steering wheel, it would feel off even if it was completely straight.

    I paid 85€ for the alignment and I'd consider that to be on the cheap side.
    1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, "Maisa"
    2008 BMW 530d Touring, "Femma"

  4. #344
    Beater gonna beat sly's Avatar
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    just keep flooding the joints with grease each oil change and they should last a good while anyhow. Replacing the boots will make them last even longer.

    Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
    rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73
    ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
    Quote Originally Posted by dmccaig
    Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

  5. #345
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    yeah, lack of lube is what does them in. Dirt is the other part. Even if you don't do the boots, pumping grease in pushes the dirt and water out. Just wipe off the grease zerk first otherwise you may be pumping dirt in with the grease. And clean it again afterward, we're not savages

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  6. #346
    Lost and driftin' Arquemann's Avatar
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    Spacers came in and went in today. Stock nuts would've stuck past the 25mm spacer, I could've made it work with the 8mm pancakes on top, but I scrounged up 10 shorter nuts from my dad's filing cabinet o' treasures. This way I could tighten the pancakes between the hub and 25mm spacer, so it was easy to center.

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    With the spacers on it looks ... normal. To my eye it's visible and it looks wide now
    I'll probably get some wider rear wheels at some point, since one is worn on the inside and the other has runout. I can get white stripe tires atleast 235 wide. White letters would be fun too, but I'd have to buy 4 since mismatching is a no-go.
    1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, "Maisa"
    2008 BMW 530d Touring, "Femma"

  7. #347
    Lost and driftin' Arquemann's Avatar
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    Any cheap tricks to add a little oomph to CFI? Lip flip probably isn't a thing here.
    I still haven't scored a job and I'm getting acutely bored.
    1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, "Maisa"
    2008 BMW 530d Touring, "Femma"

  8. #348
    Beater gonna beat sly's Avatar
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    Nope. CFI doesn't like any of that and it'll run like ass if you try. It either runs as intended or badly.

    Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
    rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73
    ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
    Quote Originally Posted by dmccaig
    Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

  9. #349
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    flipping the air cleaner lid won't bother it. Won't do anything, but it won't make it run worse either. Might make a small bit of extra noise.

    Dual exhaust will help slightly, but possibly not really enough to notice. Otherwise there really isn't all that much to be done with it beyond just making sure everything is working like it should be. Possibly you can bump the timing a teeny bit and get a little more throttle response but there is only so much you can go before it pings.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  10. #350
    Lost and driftin' Arquemann's Avatar
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    Figured as much. There's no donors to pull a dual exhaust from and exhaust shops are expensive. Timing should probably stay as is, feels relatively responsive, though I've never had this thing ping, even with an inoperative EGR and regular gas.
    I remember the tudor that's been the PoTM for the last forever had a hotrodded CFI, but can't recall if it had aftermarket engine management...

    Onto another thing: The car needs throttle for a while after a cold start to stay running, wasn't the case before I adjusted the idle down to what it's supposed to be. At what temperatures does the high idle mechanism come to play? Mine's broken and I could imagine fixing it if it helps.
    I'm talking outside temps at around 10-25C (50-80F).
    1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, "Maisa"
    2008 BMW 530d Touring, "Femma"

  11. #351
    The Brown Blob 87gtVIC's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Arquemann View Post
    I remember the tudor that's been the PoTM for the last forever had a hotrodded CFI, but can't recall if it had aftermarket engine management...
    I got a chuckle out of that.
    ~David~

    My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
    My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

  12. #352
    Lost and driftin' Arquemann's Avatar
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    It is what I thought, the thread doesn't mention anything about engine management anywhere.

    Quote Originally Posted by sluggish91 View Post
    Nothing done to the CFI unit, just rebuilt the unit with new injectors, new FPR, new TPS sensor, and cleaned the bejeezus out of it. My other mods are in my signature.
    And the sig goes like this:
    "CFI, K&N Filter, Edelbrock Lower Intake, 1.6 Roller Rockers, E7 Heads, BBK Shorty Headers, Summit H-pipe, Hooker Max Flow Mufflers, E-Fan, 3G Alternator, Race Crank Pulley, Bilstein Rear Shocks, KYB Front Shocks, Front Lowering Springs, FTI 2400 Stall Converter, PA Perfromance Valve Body, Motive 4.30 Gear"
    1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, "Maisa"
    2008 BMW 530d Touring, "Femma"

  13. #353
    GMN Regular DerekTheGreat's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Arquemann View Post
    Figured as much. There's no donors to pull a dual exhaust from and exhaust shops are expensive. Timing should probably stay as is, feels relatively responsive, though I've never had this thing ping, even with an inoperative EGR and regular gas.
    I remember the tudor that's been the PoTM for the last forever had a hotrodded CFI, but can't recall if it had aftermarket engine management...

    Onto another thing: The car needs throttle for a while after a cold start to stay running, wasn't the case before I adjusted the idle down to what it's supposed to be. At what temperatures does the high idle mechanism come to play? Mine's broken and I could imagine fixing it if it helps.
    I'm talking outside temps at around 10-25C (50-80F).
    If you hear an engine ping, it's pinging badly. Under normal conditions, you'll never hear it. I just hooked a scanner up to my truck to see if I could advance the timing beyond specification. Nope! A little bit of ping here and there under load is ok per owner's manual- suggests you're getting the most out of your gas.

    Well, the choke pull off mechanism needs to be engaged when starting cold. You do that by stabbing the throttle about halfway before starting it. If it isn't engaging "fast idle" then you'll need to play with the hockey puck thing. That or it isn't working at all or is disengaging too soon. The puck is adjustable..
    1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
    1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

  14. #354
    Lost and driftin' Arquemann's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    If you hear an engine ping, it's pinging badly. Under normal conditions, you'll never hear it. I just hooked a scanner up to my truck to see if I could advance the timing beyond specification. Nope! A little bit of ping here and there under load is ok per owner's manual- suggests you're getting the most out of your gas.

    Well, the choke pull off mechanism needs to be engaged when starting cold. You do that by stabbing the throttle about halfway before starting it. If it isn't engaging "fast idle" then you'll need to play with the hockey puck thing. That or it isn't working at all or is disengaging too soon. The puck is adjustable..
    Any ideas on how could I figure out if mine's pinging then? Obviously I haven't heard this thing ping, but I guess I don't know if it does.

    My fast idle mechanism is in a box in the garage since the pull-off pot on the CFI unit is a bit busted, but I have all the parts and a new diaphragm. Just wanted to make sure it'd actually benefit me fixing it. So it does work on summer days too, when the engine is cold?
    1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, "Maisa"
    2008 BMW 530d Touring, "Femma"

  15. #355
    Lost and driftin' Arquemann's Avatar
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    I got the choke back together, replaced the broken ear with nut and bolt, new diaphragm put in.
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    I've found this: https://workshop-manuals.com/ford/mu...dle/page_1265/
    But I still have questions:
    -In a nutshell, how do I set this up?
    -The pull-off pot leaks vacuum slowly with a new diaphragm, is it supposed to?
    -How do I set the puck/spring to a correct position?
    -As the spring gets hot, it's supposed to lift the arm, right?

    I just want it to keep the RPM slightly higher for a little bit on cold starts, not go "bwaaaaap" to 2400 RPM like it's winter in Siberia. I'll be happy with like 900 RPM for 30 seconds.
    Or do I just have to experiment?
    1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, "Maisa"
    2008 BMW 530d Touring, "Femma"

  16. #356
    GMN Regular DerekTheGreat's Avatar
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    It's been a cold minute since I've peeked at one of those.. Kishy would be the man to talk to here.

    I do not think the pot should leak at all.

    The correct position will take some fiddling. I do remember spending several days with mine, as you only want to make adjustments after starting the car when it has had a chance to cool completely. ANd yes, the spring should get the arm out of the way when warm so it no longer wants to rest at fast idle.

    That's a no go on the 900 RPM at idle when cold. For whatever reason and in Ford's infinite wisdom, these do not richen the fuel mixture when cold. That's why the idle is so high. I got away with 1900 or 2100 RPM though. You'll have to spend some time futzing with that as well. You'll know if it isn't happy, it'll start surging and even die.
    1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
    1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

  17. #357
    Lost and driftin' Arquemann's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    That's a no go on the 900 RPM at idle when cold. For whatever reason and in Ford's infinite wisdom, these do not richen the fuel mixture when cold. That's why the idle is so high. I got away with 1900 or 2100 RPM though. You'll have to spend some time futzing with that as well. You'll know if it isn't happy, it'll start surging and even die.
    Uhhhh...
    Is it supposed to fast idle so fucken high to substitute a rich mixture on cold starts? Or is it just another emissions thing, to get the cats warming fast?

    Basically what I do on cold starts is that I give it a bit of throttle (around 1000rpm) for a short while until the cold idle doesn't drop so low it stalls.
    I kinda wanted the fast idle mechanism to do that for me. As far as I've looked at the fast idle mechanism, there's just a drop-off, either its on the fast idle or not. Not like a newer car where it gradually lowers down to normal idle speed.
    1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, "Maisa"
    2008 BMW 530d Touring, "Femma"

  18. #358
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    Its not supposed to have stupid high idle, there is a high speed screw that you can use to adjust how high it is, but exactly what conditions that is set under I'm not sure. If its not on the emissions label, it would have to be somewhere in the shop manual. I'd be very surprised if the spec is over about 1200.

    The fuel mix does fatten up when cold. Thats what the ECT and ACT is for. The computer knows the engine is cold and it adds fuel to compensate. The high idle is just because cold engines also need more throttle to run at a given RPM so without it you may have stalling problems.

    and yeah it doesn't have a gradual ramp down, its too mechanically primitive for that. On or off is all you get. The position of the heater just controls how long it takes before it drops. If the vacuum thing doesn't work it won't be able to lift the high idle cam out. Same if the heater doesn't heat. If the spring is busted in the heater it won't drop the cam in position. Its all a bit of a balancing act.

    and I also don't think its supposed to be leaking vacuum.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  19. #359
    Lost and driftin' Arquemann's Avatar
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    Yeah I've got to tinker with it tomorrow. Gotta check the pull-off first and for setting and adjustment I think I'll just go with what feels good.
    1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, "Maisa"
    2008 BMW 530d Touring, "Femma"

  20. #360
    Lost and driftin' Arquemann's Avatar
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    Well it would appear that I now have a functioning high idle mechanism.

    The vacuum leak for the pull-off was caused by the fact that the sealing surfaces weren't flat. The backhalf of the vacuum pot rocked on the axis of the screwholes, so the metal around screwholes were basically highspots. I carefully filed both surfaces flat(ter). Someone had tried to silicone it shut at some point.

    As the engine and and "choke" spring was cold, I set the hockey puck so it just barely catches the lever (from my understanding it would mean the high idle won't last as long). First I had to lube the shaft for the lever that the spring moves, so it wouldn't stick. I set the RPM set screw in maybe a couple turns away from falling out, so the high idle RPM won't go the the moon because I want it be as low as possible. I'm fucking afraid of the rpms running high without my control.

    Now it engages seemingly correct when I stab the throttle on a cold engine, and it fired up nicely. I'm not exactly sure how the vacuum pull-off is supposed to play with the lever, but after having it run for a while, blipping the throttle again dropped the RPM.
    Having the engine run longer, I can see the warming spring keeps lifting up the lever it's attached to.
    1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, "Maisa"
    2008 BMW 530d Touring, "Femma"

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