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Thread: 88 Towncar 4.6 swap

  1. #1

    Default 88 Towncar 4.6 swap

    I think I saw a thread a while ago where this guy swap a 4.6 into a box cant remember if it was a cv,gm or a tc I'm wondering if he got it running ok...anyway I have a 88tc and I'm looking to the same I just want some tips, like what other parts would I need besides the engine trans and wiring harness...and any other tips and advice

  2. #2

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    http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthre...-Grand-Marquis

    He did a frame swap, swapped the 85 chassis onto an 03(?) frame. Pretty cool idea but I like my LoPo. Yeah itís slow but itís easier to work on and cheaper than a 4.6.


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  3. #3
    Wagon Addicted Tiggie's Avatar
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    I think it’s “relatively” easy to do an 4.6 swap to a box if you have a donor car, time, and equipment to do an engine swap. Get one that’s not EEC-V. You don’t have to frame swap unless you want the newer suspension parts.

    But I’m with 87GrandMarq, keep the pushrod. The non-PI 2V 4.6 isn’t worth the effort IMO.
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    GMN Regular DerekTheGreat's Avatar
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    I second what Tiggie said, not worth the effort. Perhaps if you put the Mark VIII version in there, but a standard 4.6 is just a lot of work for what amounts to a lateral gain.
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    If I were to do the frame swap; I would do what Mr. Bean did with the Mod Box and upgrade to the 5.4; then do the frame swap. I might not have gone as far as he did; but at the least, I would increase the displacement; maybe throw some aftermarket stuff on there as well (heads, custom cam, etc.....). At that point; probably could build a decent 408W for that time and money.

    http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthre...-Grand-Marquis

  6. #6
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    Basically what the others said... a lot of work for no gain. Even if you went 5.4L they are prone to various failures (timing sets and broken spark plugs), so I wouldn't even touch one. If you're stuck on it, and want to do it without a frame swap, it'll require lots of measuring and fabrication to get it to mount correctly
    -Phil



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  7. #7

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    One of my main concerns and reasons for wanting to go with the 4.6 is because there are tons of them in junkyards and I can find a complete donor and swap every thing over and I'm gonna rebuild it anyway. 351w are pretty rare and even explorer 5.0s and hard to find where I am. I also want avoid having to get external controllers for trans because I want to go with the 4r70w trans and a floor shifter

  8. #8
    Hobbit
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    4.6 and 4R70W will bolt in to box frame. There is no measuring or fabrication to get the engine and trans to physically fit. You can do the whole swap using OEM parts. The only custom thing will be the wiring.

    The 4.6 isn't much more expensive to work on than the small block. It's been around for 30 years now. Part prices have come down quite a bit over the last decade. They are way more common at the junkyards nowadays than the small block and your selection of used drop in engines will be larger with 4.6. I am assuming you will be buying a used engine which means newest 5.0 you will get is 2000-2001? Newest 4.6 is 2014.

    If you are buying from a junkyard and can't hear it running make sure you get warranty. Like mentioned above don't bother with NPI engine which is anything before 2001 for Panthers and 99 for Mustangs.

    I'd be more concerned with the tranny than the engine. 4.6 is a work horse and has proven itself over the last 3 decades. There are plenty of limos, taxi cabs, trucks and vans with over 500k on the clock that can attest to that.

    For reliable daily I would take 2v 4.6 over 5.0. Avoid any 3v engines. I would also avoid 4v unless you want to build one for performance application.

    If you plan on modding I would stick with a 5.0. Performance parts for small blocks are way cheaper than modular.
    Last edited by Mr Bean; 03-15-2021 at 08:35 PM.

  9. #9
    P31 Pursuit Car Brown_Muscle's Avatar
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    I apologize for the misinformation- for some reason i thought I had read about someone fabricating motor mounts for the swap. That's good to know, i change what I said about the swap not being worth it. If you have a quality donor engine/trans go for it!
    -Phil



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  10. #10
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    I know when we put the 302 in the 92 that John had, the 4.6 mounts were simply swapped for 80s 5.0 mounts with no fuss. I expect it would work going the opposite way too. Other than just the hassle of actually swapping the mounts.

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  11. #11
    GMN Regular DerekTheGreat's Avatar
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    Now that is cool, a 302 in an aero. Just my style.
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  12. #12

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    Man you guys are a great help. Really no mis information I take it as advice it's cool. But yes I I'm gearing more towards a perfomance type build nothing to crazy about 500 to 600whp that's y I wasa choosing the 4.6 block over the 5.0 cuz the 5.0s didn't hold together very well after about 4 to 500 hp. Also with the wiring couldn't I basically make a wiring harness cuz it theory it shouldn't take more the 3 or 4 wires to start the engine right?

  13. #13

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    Also the trans be rebuilt with a perfomance rebuild kit. I'm looking at suspension upgrade options as well want to let it as comfy as possible but not afraid to lose comfortablity

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    Getting 5-600 rwhp out of a 2v 4.6 NA is going to cost big bucks. With forced induction it is easier but still expensive.
    A 4v 4.6 is a better alternative imho. You will still need a power adder tho.
    I would get a running and driving donor car if possible and swap over what you need.
    3 or 4 wires is an oversimplification. Cam and crank sensors, injectors, MAF and fuel system all need to be addressed.
    2v harness can run a 4v but there are things like reversing the polarity of the coil packs, as well as the ability to tune the ecm.

    I don’t know a ton about the box panther ecm but I think it would be better to start out with a more modern ecm as far as tuning goes
    ..

  15. #15
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    'nothing crazy, just 5-600 hp' are two statements that do not belong together.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
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    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

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  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by massacre View Post
    Getting 5-600 rwhp out of a 2v 4.6 NA is going to cost big bucks. With forced induction it is easier but still expensive.
    A 4v 4.6 is a better alternative imho. You will still need a power adder tho.
    I would get a running and driving donor car if possible and swap over what you need.
    3 or 4 wires is an oversimplification. Cam and crank sensors, injectors, MAF and fuel system all need to be addressed.
    2v harness can run a 4v but there are things like reversing the polarity of the coil packs, as well as the ability to tune the ecm.

    I don’t know a ton about the box panther ecm but I think it would be better to start out with a more modern ecm as far as tuning goes
    What he said.

    Imo for stock or almost stock daily 2v 2.6 will be fine but for performance application small block would be cheaper to build.

  17. #17
    GMN Regular DerekTheGreat's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73 View Post
    'nothing crazy, just 5-600 hp' are two statements that do not belong together.
    I concur. I think the OP hasn't driven anything with even 300 HP. That is more than adequate to make a car scoot fast enough to put a smile on your face. My dad's LS1 Camaro was a lot of fun. I think the problem with modern HP goals is that they're based around production cars like the Hellcat, Corvette/Camaro/Mustang, so 300HP is nothing if not laughable to those who haven't experienced it.
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  18. #18
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    500 horses in a hot rod is a whole different animal than a 500hp stock production car. 500hp in a 60's mustang with pro-touring suspension is feels sketchy, but the same 500hp in a BOAT with stock-ish suspension get's scary, real fast.
    And 500hp from an american V8 is totally different from a boosted 4cyl. Torque comes on immediately.

    I don't want to discourage anyone, but go in stages. Maybe aim for 300 crank hp at first, then drive the shit out of it and think what you actually want.
    Don't get carried away watching Youtubers throwing an 800hp turbo-LS in anything and everything.
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    The problem is when someone builds a high compression bottom end for NA power, then decides that they want to boost it after the fact.
    Then the CR is too high for boost.
    So if you know you will want to boost the car in the future, don’t go apeshit with the compression ratio.
    ..

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Arquemann View Post
    500 horses in a hot rod is a whole different animal than a 500hp stock production car. 500hp in a 60's mustang with pro-touring suspension is feels sketchy, but the same 500hp in a BOAT with stock-ish suspension get's scary, real fast.
    And 500hp from an american V8 is totally different from a boosted 4cyl. Torque comes on immediately.

    I don't want to discourage anyone, but go in stages. Maybe aim for 300 crank hp at first, then drive the shit out of it and think what you actually want.
    Don't get carried away watching Youtubers throwing an 800hp turbo-LS in anything and everything.
    ^^^^^^^This!^^^^^^^^

    I would start with the suspension and brake mods/upgrades first. Then start making power. That way you start with a little bit of control over the newfound power. Then adjust accordingly. In my case; I already rebuilt the front and rear suspension; but I know I need more brakes (bigger with more clamping power); as the stock system was barely adequate for the lopo.

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