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Thread: Let's Talk about input shafts and shift kits...

  1. #1

    Default Let's Talk about input shafts and shift kits...

    Okay guys, I know our two piece input shafts are lacking in durability with any added power. And as I have stated in other posts, I'm planning an engine build of sorts, have some of the parts already gathered even.

    I'm gonna hunt down a shift kit and go ahead and replace the pressure regulator valve thing while I'm in there. These two kits seem promising. I'd likely end up going with the level 2 or 3, probably 2 and then if needed 3, since you can't go down a step, but can go up.
    https://www.becontrols.com/aod.shtml

    But I know once you hit around 300 or so horses at the crank, you need to really be careful unless you have a hardened input shaft.
    How do you go about replacing the input shaft, and can I please keep a two piece shaft at this stage, because I really don't want a full trans build, because as far as I'm aware, nothing is wrong with my AOD.

    I read somewhere there is a 3/4 hardened input shaft available that's good for around this power level? Allegedly you can install it without disassembling the whole transmission. That's what makes me want to take that route. Any thoughts? Links, same price range (for now) suggestions are very helpful.

  2. #2

    Default

    Also to add to this. Any trans cooler suggestions, and any best place to mount them? This needs to happen even if everything else was all stock.

  3. #3

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    I have a baumann shift kit myself and I like it. Itís nice because itís programmable but the po turned mine all the way up. Coupled with 4.10s itís a little jarring. If thatís what youíre looking for then honestly itís probably the best one out there but if you just want to tighten up shifts Iíd recommend US Shift. Iíve called them personally and spoke to a tech who was quite knowledgable.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  4. #4
    Stow It! GM_Guy's Avatar
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    Trans cooler: Large, 14"x18" minimum.
    Infront of radiator.
    Rubber mounted to a mounting strap NOT through the radiator with those zip-tie things as those zip tie things will saw through your radiator fins and eventually the radiator tubes. I used 1/2" copper water pipe to make mounts for my rad cooler.
    In-radiator factory cooler was NOT mounted in-line with the radiator cooler on advise of the trans guy that built my trans (also had a 3000 stall converter, and drove it like I stole it).

  5. #5
    Told ya everything I know when I said hello P72Ford's Avatar
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    http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthre...l=1#post623008

    See how I mounted my stacked plate cooler and ran the lines in post #34.
    **2012 Ford Mustang Boss 302: 5.0/ 6 spd/ 3.73s, 17K Cruiser
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  6. #6
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by GM_Guy View Post
    Trans cooler: Large, 14"x18" minimum.
    Infront of radiator.
    Rubber mounted to a mounting strap NOT through the radiator with those zip-tie things as those zip tie things will saw through your radiator fins and eventually the radiator tubes. I used 1/2" copper water pipe to make mounts for my rad cooler.
    In-radiator factory cooler was NOT mounted in-line with the radiator cooler on advise of the trans guy that built my trans (also had a 3000 stall converter, and drove it like I stole it).
    Got any pics of it?
    1987 CV LX 5.0

  7. #7
    Member of the Orb Alliance packman's Avatar
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    I have a similar setup to what P72Ford had on his CV. Just aluminum stock bolted vertically to the radiator core support. The aluminum serves a dual purpose for also supporting the e-fan brackets. I don't have any pictures of the trans cooler install yet; but I do have a Flex-a-lite trans cooler with AN port fittings. I will try to get some pictures this weekend if the weather permits me to do so.

    http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthre...oria-LX/page17

  8. #8

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    Considering frame mounting this cooler and putting the fan on a temp activated switch.

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...A12GPQEHYZDB2V

    Is this overkill?

  9. #9
    Beater gonna beat sly's Avatar
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    It's not done until it's overdone. Definitely overkill... BUT... if it is needed at some point, it'll be good to have.

    Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
    rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73
    ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
    Quote Originally Posted by dmccaig
    Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

  10. #10

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    Quote Originally Posted by sly View Post
    It's not done until it's overdone. Definitely overkill... BUT... if it is needed at some point, it'll be good to have.
    While you're right and I agree entirely. If I can get by issue free with something like this: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sdm-pce1861023 then I will. As I've had these running on GM 4L60 and 4L80 transmissions behind 600+ horsepower applications that were beat on. But, they also didn't spend as much time potentially sitting in traffic or running 4 hours on the interstate. Though, several of them have, at times. And had no problems.

    However, different transmissions and such can make a difference.

    Edit: On Amazon way cheaper. https://www.amazon.com/PCE186-1023-S.../dp/B07YM7JPYH
    Last edited by AngryMcMuffin; 04-09-2021 at 11:58 AM.

  11. #11
    Beater gonna beat sly's Avatar
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    I'd use that cooler for the power steering fluid, if anything, and get a plate cooler for the trans. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Hayden-Automo...dp/B000C39CL8/

    I went overkill for mine since I was using it as my tow rig at the time and put in one of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C3DDKO/

    If you just need to get buy... the cheap option for a trans cooler would be one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Hayden-Automo...dp/B000C39C86/
    Had something like that on my 93 for 10 years with no trans issues other than the torque converter clutch wear that is common to the pure stock AOD-E (lasts about 100-150K miles).

    Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
    rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73
    ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
    Quote Originally Posted by dmccaig
    Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

  12. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by sly View Post
    I'd use that cooler for the power steering fluid, if anything, and get a plate cooler for the trans. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Hayden-Automo...dp/B000C39CL8/

    I went overkill for mine since I was using it as my tow rig at the time and put in one of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C3DDKO/

    If you just need to get buy... the cheap option for a trans cooler would be one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Hayden-Automo...dp/B000C39C86/
    Had something like that on my 93 for 10 years with no trans issues other than the torque converter clutch wear that is common to the pure stock AOD-E (lasts about 100-150K miles).
    The cheap option there is like the one that I put on my 1972 C10 with a 700R4 in a parking lot when it blew a line off on the way home from about 4 hours away. After it later on pushed the front seal out about 2 hours from home, due to me and my friend overfilling it by accident, it's doing fine since fixing those issues. And I'm as unkind to that transmission as a 307 SBC can be. But it was built to possibly go behind a LS one day, so overbuilt for the current setup.

  13. #13
    P31 Pursuit Car Brown_Muscle's Avatar
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    I put a baumann shift kit in my trans. Definitely start with level 2, i did level 2 with 1-2 shift and level 1 with the others. Level 2 WILL break the tires loose with its shifts at 3/4-WOT. It's fun, as long as you're not gunning it and it shifts around a corner suddenly...

    Hardened input shaft and a shift kit, assuming the trans is an 89+ and in good shape, with an upgraded "A" overdrive servo, should hold up to 400HP... unless you're dragging it with slicks, no guarantees there.

    Replacing the input shaft (or damper shaft as some companies call it) is super easy once the trans is out... remove torque converter, grab on to the input shaft and pull it out, and push the new one in. That simple. Dan at silver fox sells the 300M hardened shafts for a great rate, but he is current not working at full capacity. I recently bought one and he gave me his supplier to call. They were great: TCS Performance 928-453-4020. I think it was like $210 shipped for it. Make sure you ask for a DAMPER SHAFT, or they'll send you the wrong one.

    Are you planning on getting a converter as well?
    -Phil



    +1982 Ford LTD-S Police Car. 351w, GT40 Heads, Edelbrock 1906 Carb, Full exhaust headers to tails. 3.27 Trac-Lok Rear. Aluminum Police Driveshaft. Speedway Springs+Bilstein Shocks, Intermediate Brakes, Baumann Shift kit.

    +2003 Acura CL Type S 6-speed

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