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Thread: Core plug

  1. #1

    Default Core plug

    So this blew out on the passenger side near the starter, obviously coolant has all leaked out, what do u guys recommend? Click image for larger version. 

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  2. #2
    I post a lot...
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    Default

    That is a block heater.

    Do you want a block heater?
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  3. #3

    Default

    No, i only drive the car in the summer

  4. #4

    Default

    But if its an easier fix, then i'll put a new block heater in. Also should there be something in the threaded hole below it?

  5. #5
    Beater gonna beat sly's Avatar
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    The threaded hole below it should be the block drain plug. It's down inside that hole and should be a hex drive plug.

    As for the block heater: clean out the hole and you can take the broken bits of the bolt clamp and get some flat bar about the same length but about 1/8 thick and thread it or weld a nut to it that fits that bolt and put it back in. If there's any rubber seals for the bolt hole or outer edge, you may need to replace those.

    Or just get a casting plug (freeze plug), make sure the surface is dry on the walls of the hole, put some sealer around the plug and knock it in.

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  6. #6
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    problem with the core plugs is that you usually can't drive them in with the engine in the car. Most of the time the angle is wrong. Possibly why someone put the heater in there to begin with, especially if it doesn't have the cord with it.

    Expanding rubber plugs exist for this reason. The block heater looks like the same kind my diesel had, and has the same failure. The "wing" that retains it didn't have a hinge, it was just bent into a V originally and the nut looked basically like a Chevy bow tie. The screw simply pulled the bow tie into the V and flattened it out. Unfortunately that makes the metal at the point of the V flex and it caused a stress crack. Mine failed when I pulled it out to replace the leaking O ring. There is also a rubber washer under the head of the screw, but without that wing none of that matters. It will not hold in the block without it. Not sure if you've got enough screw and depth to get away with a solid piece of steel with a tapped hole or what.

    if you can just replace it with a standard core plug, do it. Clean the hole out real well, wire brush it so its down to clean metal, and hammer the thing in there. I've never used sealer but if you want to, use something thin line aviation sealer. No RTV or anything thick like that. They hammer in with a socket that just fits in the core plug, and they drive in until the edge of the cup is flush with the block. See your other ones for examples.

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  7. #7
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    Make sure you use a freeze plug made of the same metal as the others in the car.
    My personal opinion is to stay away from the rubber freeze plugs. I have used them many years ago. Never liked them.

  8. #8
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    they aren't ideal, but it makes sense if the only other option is to yank the engine to drive in a metal one.

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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mainemantom View Post
    Make sure you use a freeze plug made of the same metal as the others in the car.
    My personal opinion is to stay away from the rubber freeze plugs. I have used them many years ago. Never liked them.
    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73 View Post
    they aren't ideal, but it makes sense if the only other option is to yank the engine to drive in a metal one.
    I agree with both of these. I am running three rubber ones in my 74 pickup. I don't necessarily like it, but they have been in there and doing the job for about 7 years.
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