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Thread: Ran EEC IV KOEO test (Inova 3145) - now no start ´84 CFI Town Car????

  1. #1

    Default Ran EEC IV KOEO test (Inova 3145) - now no start ´84 CFI Town Car????

    What´s going on here?
    Put my newly acquired 1984 Town Car out of the garage to get my new license plates on.
    Everything ok.
    Did some work in the car (ATC sensor install, parking brake vacuum release switch install). Then I decided to hook up the Innova 3145 tester I had bought to run a EEC test to see if the car had stored codes. Engine was cold (which was a mistake I read later in the manual)

    This are the codes it threw:
    85
    10
    14
    21
    51
    14
    21
    41

    It kept showing the last 41 code for a good amount of time, so I decided to turn the scanner and key off.

    When I tried to start the car to get her into the garage again (and verify if my parking brake auto release switch restoration works) I get no cranking. Only rapid clicking from the pass side engine compartment. Like solenoids rattling.

    What is going on? How to proceed?
    Could the car still be in scan mode?

    Thanks in advance.

    Wife is super mad, like you all can expect
    Last edited by Hillbillycat; 05-19-2021 at 08:15 AM.

  2. #2
    Lost and driftin' Arquemann's Avatar
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    As far as no start, I'd try just unhooking the battery at first and reconnecting a while later. This will also erase all stored codes.

    Code 10 is rather interesting, since it's not supposed to appear on a KOEO test, only KOER. And as far as I know, there's no "scan mode", but with a scanner or correct wires connected, the car goes through a test which clicks all sorts of relays.

    If you haven't found already, here you can find the codes explained:
    http://www.grandmarq.net/oldfuelinjection/page14.html
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  3. #3
    2 decades of DDing Box Panthers, now in a Whale VicCrownVic's Avatar
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    Sounds like a coincidence to me, not something caused by checking the codes or keying off early (other than drawing power from the battery).
    I'd check the car battery voltage first. Starting the car drained the battery down some, usually not enough to be a problem but if it was already on the low side that one start may have been enough to drop it low enough to not start even if all lights come on and look ok. Pulling out of the garage and turning the car off may not be enough time for the alternator to bring the battery back up to sufficient voltage to start again.
    Vic

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  4. #4

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    According to the manual code 10 indicates the separator code between on demand codes and continuity memory codes.


    Will disconnect battery and also check for battery voltage.

    Alternator had been changed for a new one by previous owner. Have to check if 1G or 3G, but think it´s still 1G.
    After car gets started AMP idiot light stays on untill engine is revved a bit, then clears.

    Is this a useful hint?

    Hood light didn´t work today. Had reconnected after I got the car. Previous owner had it disconnected. Maybe draw here. Dome and courtesy lights, radio and power antenna, seat and window motors all work.
    Last edited by Hillbillycat; 05-19-2021 at 09:12 AM.

  5. #5
    2 decades of DDing Box Panthers, now in a Whale VicCrownVic's Avatar
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    If the AMP light is the only light on and not just the normal startup sanity check, it sounds like there very well could be an issue with the battery and/or charging system. If not the battery or alternator then parasitic draw from the hood light (or something else) could be to blame. If the PO put a new alternator in, they may have been chasing an electrical issue/parasitic draw.
    Vic

    ~ 1998 Mercury Grand Marquis LS - new DD
    ~ 1991 Mercury Grand Marquis LS "The Scab" - plenty of rot, summer DD
    ~ 1997 GMC Yukon - wannabe winter DD - returning sometime in the 2020s, I finally have an engine
    ~ 1991 Mercury Grand Marquis GS "The Ice Car" - Rotting Retired Winter DD
    ~ 1989 Mercury Grand Marquis GS - Rotting Retired DD
    Gone but not forgotten:
    ~ 1988 Country Squire ~ 1987 Ford Crown Vic

  6. #6

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    Yes, AMP light stays on after startup unless you touch the pedal and revv up the engine once. Then it stays off untill the next restart.
    Hood light parastic draw: could be. I´ll disconnet the plug and measure/see if it changes anything in future.

  7. #7
    Beater gonna beat sly's Avatar
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    Sounds like a 1G alternator and possibly a weak battery under load.

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  8. #8

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    Sly was right. Battery was low (11.3V) and it´s a 1G alt indeed. Car fired right up after the battery was on the trickle charger for some time.
    Thanks

  9. #9
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    slipping belt will also make the amp light hang on until the engine revs. Those 1g alternators aren't great for output but they are generally reliable. Most of the time when one quits working you can just replace the brush and it will work again.

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  10. #10

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    Checked for parasitic draw. I have 26mA with the manual clock working and hood light unplugged. Is this something to worry and investigate?

  11. #11
    Beater gonna beat sly's Avatar
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    No. That sounds normal. Just know that you'll need to run the car at least once every 2 weeks or so for 10-20 minutes to get the battery charged (with a good battery that is) unless you leave a trickle charger on it. If the battery has a weak cell or 2 that drop out when cranking, you'll still get enough to start, but it won't be happy about it and the battery will drain much faster.

    Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
    rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73
    ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
    Quote Originally Posted by dmccaig
    Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

  12. #12

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    Thank you.

  13. #13

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    Thank you.
    BTW, erased the old codes. Then it read 11 10 11. No time to run another KOEO test after driving some so far.

  14. #14
    GMN Regular DerekTheGreat's Avatar
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    11 is all systems pass. 10? "Cylinder #1 Failed Cylinder Balance Test." I can't believe that is accurate, these aren't sophisticated enough..
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    Lost and driftin' Arquemann's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    11 is all systems pass. 10? "Cylinder #1 Failed Cylinder Balance Test." I can't believe that is accurate, these aren't sophisticated enough..
    Especially when it was a KOEO test, it shouldn't even give a code 10. I wonder what codes one would get just by doing the KOEO with a test light.
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  16. #16
    Wagon Addicted Tiggie's Avatar
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    I don't think that's a 10. I think that's the separator from active codes to memory codes (or whatever their technical term is).
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  17. #17
    Beater gonna beat sly's Avatar
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    Yes. 10 is the separator between active and stored codes.

    Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
    rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73
    ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
    Quote Originally Posted by dmccaig
    Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

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