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Thread: Car Running Hot??

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    P31 Pursuit Car Brown_Muscle's Avatar
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    Default Car Running Hot??

    Every hot day, since the new engine, it's been running hotter than it did before. Normally around 210 on the highway, but if I stop it gets pretty hot. It was around 220+ idling with the A/C on, and 215 running on the highway... I have a 2 core aluminum radiator, newer fan clutch, thermostat is a 195 motorcraft.

    I re-routed the mechanical temp gauge along the engine block, and at one point it comes very close (less than an inch) to the exhaust/header collector. Could this be causing a false reading? It doesnt act like its really hot...
    -Phil



    +1982 Ford LTD-S Police Car. Built 351w, Trickflow 11R 190 Heads, Edelbrock 1906 Carb+ RPM Intake, WR-AOD, Full exhaust headers to tails. 3.27 Trac-Lok Rear. Aluminum Police Driveshaft. Speedway Springs+Bilstein Shocks, Intermediate Brakes, HPP Steering Box.

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    Lost and driftin' Arquemann's Avatar
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    Well the first thing here should probably be to make sure your gauge is accurate, if there's the possibility of it being skewed. Does it run proportionately hotter on the cooler days aswell?
    Lean mixture and weird timing could cause running hot aswell.
    You shouldn't have any cooling issues based on your list, unless the t-stat is old.
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    Where are you running the temp gauge from?

    I ran mine from the rear driver side port on the TFS lower intake. I will find out if that is the proper place to take the water temp when the engine is running.

    The last vehicle I installed a water temp gauge on was the Malibu; and I ran the sender off the lower intake port that was next to the T-stat housing. That seemed to be a fairly accurate place at the time on the sbc. With a 195* T-stat, it would be 210*F in traffic and cool down to 190*F - 195*F on the highway.

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    I'd run a 180F thermostat with that setup. If I was towing with my car on the regular, I would swap in my 180F thermostat. Runs a little too cool with that in for regular driving though.

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    +1 to verifying gauge accuracy. I've mostly dealt with electrical sending type ones, but have noticed a error of margin typically reporting a little warmer than actual. I had to add one to a Whale since the connection to the cluster went inop (and really wasn't gonna take it apart at that point), and I checked temperature displayed on the gauge to the live data from the PCM. When the PCM was indicating 195*, usually the gauge pointed towards 200-205*, so around a 10* warmer than reported temp.

    I'd arguably say 220*+ would make me uncomfortable if that's correct. Got a infrared temperature gun handy? I might shoot one at the thermostat outlet and see what it's throwing out.

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    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    Mechanical gauges work on pressure, so adding heat in along the tube could skew the results. Its a copper tube, and it can conduct heat into the system which makes it expand more and read higher.

    The rear ports in the intake don't get good flow, so the gauge tends to read funky there. At least it did when I tried that. Possibly if you plumbed in a crossover hose from head to head to get some water flow back there it would read correctly but just sticking a gauge in there on mine had odd swings and it lagged badly from what the stock dash gauge was saying.

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    P31 Pursuit Car Brown_Muscle's Avatar
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    It does run cooler on cooler days. I have it installed in the front drivers side port. The gauge never read this high before, and the hotter it is the hotter it gets, especially sitting. I have a feeling its simply due to being near the exhaust. I did find this from Autometer:

    "Once you have determined where the gauge will be mounted, you need to carefully route the capillary tubing. The capillary tubing needs to be routed away from any excessive heat sources, such as headers or the exhaust manifold. This is done for a couple of reasons:

    To prevent or cause damage to the line
    So the line does not absorb the extra heat and reflect a higher temp than what you are actually trying to monitor."

    Just like you said gadget.

    I'm going to get an infrared thermometer just to be sure. t-stat is brand new, and fuel mixture is pretty spot on now based on my wideband. I'm going to verify the gauge before going to a lower t-stat. It's usually no where near as hot up here as in texas, but 90's for a few days in the summer is not uncommon. Also, electric fans are coming shortly which should help at idle

    Thank for all the advice, i will report back!
    -Phil



    +1982 Ford LTD-S Police Car. Built 351w, Trickflow 11R 190 Heads, Edelbrock 1906 Carb+ RPM Intake, WR-AOD, Full exhaust headers to tails. 3.27 Trac-Lok Rear. Aluminum Police Driveshaft. Speedway Springs+Bilstein Shocks, Intermediate Brakes, HPP Steering Box.

    +2003 Acura CL Type S 6-speed

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    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    colder t-stats don't really fix hot running problems. They only set the minimum temp the engine can operate at. Max temp is just a function of how much heat the radiator can get rid of vs how much heat the engine dumps into it. So long as the radiator rejects more heat than the motor makes it will tend to run somewhere close to the thermostat temperature. If it can't get rid of the heat, the colder t-stat won't make up for that, though it might take a little bit longer to overheat if the coolant starts flowing sooner.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
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    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

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    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
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    GMN Regular clutch47's Avatar
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    You could try shielding the capillary tube from the heat with some loosely wrapped foil temporarily, or anything else that could help. If the temp goes down even a little, you found your Llama.
    Those DEI wraps work pretty well, and a length of that slid over the capillary tube could fix you up for good.
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    P31 Pursuit Car Brown_Muscle's Avatar
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    So the last few days, no matter how long it's sat or the temperature outside, the gauge doesn't go below 140*... I still cruise around 200 with the cooler weather, but i don't trust it at all. I'll have to figure out a different gauge. I think I'll need a splitter for that port once I get the EFI, as it needs a temp sensor as well, and I don't want to put one on the thermostat housing
    -Phil



    +1982 Ford LTD-S Police Car. Built 351w, Trickflow 11R 190 Heads, Edelbrock 1906 Carb+ RPM Intake, WR-AOD, Full exhaust headers to tails. 3.27 Trac-Lok Rear. Aluminum Police Driveshaft. Speedway Springs+Bilstein Shocks, Intermediate Brakes, HPP Steering Box.

    +2003 Acura CL Type S 6-speed

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    Did you get the thermometer?
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    I used an Autometer (2283) inline temp gauge adapter in the upper radiator hose for my electric fan switch. Perhaps that could be used for the temp gauge sender, if it's an electrical gauge.

  13. #13
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    put the EFI water temp sensor in the fitting going to the heater core. Thats what Ford did. I don't think you can split the port in the manifold and get 2 sensors in there and have them work correctly. The probe has to be in the water flow or its not going to actually sample anything.

    putting the sender after the thermostat will make it always read nothing until the t-stat opens I have the in-dash gauge in my car in the thermostat housing and the real gauge in the stock location. Only thing its vaguely useful for is knowing exactly when the thermostat opens, but it goes from C to center scale in about 2 seconds.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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    I'd cast a suspicous eye at the thermal fan clutch. next time your out and shes hot, leave it running, pop the hood, and shut off the car while watching the fan. If the fan keeps spinning the fan clutch isn't doing its job no more.

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