Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

New Guy, Potential Col. Park Buyer (advice)

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    New Guy, Potential Col. Park Buyer (advice)

    Evening Guys.

    Like the title says, been doing research for a potential purchase, '87 Colony Park, and realized this is the place to come to. I'm not new to cars by any means, or Ford for that matter, but this will be my first F/M car. Current DD is an 86 F-250. Great vehicle for my business, but a complete pain to drive to class (downtown), when it's hot, traffic, etc. The wagon will be seeing full time DD duty hopefully. I've seen MPG numbers anywhere from 10-30. I'm somewhat optimistic, I've got an old woman's foot and my driving is 90%+ highway and back road. When I'm not hauling I get close to 20mpg in the truck.

    Been in love with the last of the box wagons since I was a kid, and came across this ad while looking for a new DD.

    up for sale is a 1987 murcury station wagon 5.0 engine plenty of room runs and drive with a current inspection sticker 995 obo will consider trades just need it gone make me an offer

    At that price I'd assume a couple things: high miles, AC is toast, some interior blemishes to match the exterior fade.

    But cheap heaps are right up my alley. And, I cut my teeth on German cars, so the parts prices are like a vacation for me. From reading, it seems that temp gauge and tach were not standard to the gauges? Asinine IMO, I'd be adding them in short order. And was the 3 speed auto still available in '87, if so how do I determine if it's a 4spd? I'm not adverse to buying it with a 3, just figure it'd go in short order for an AOD or T5 in the name of MPG's.

    I figure dual exhaust is easy enough to diagnose, along with general condition and making sure all the electronics work. We've had a 302 in the family since it left the lot in '94, so that won't be a complete stranger to me. Is this 87 wagon SEFI, but no MAF? I'd initially thought adding a maf would be a quick upgrade, but it seems that the EPA estimates decrease in 88+ cars?

    If I do purchase the wagon, I plan a mild build for the engine, all in the name of MPG increases, and maybe some smiles while I'm at it. What rear end gearing came in the wagons? I've seen sets for Ford rears as high as 3.08 and 2.73, but if it's higher than 3.55 I'd leave it alone for now. Thinking of doing 40-P heads, bbk headers, 2.5in exhaust through magna flow cats to a couple Super 40 mufflers. From what I'd read, I'll see negligible gains going from stock EFI setup to MSD, unless I want huge power?

    TIA
    -Dave

    Dave- collector of the old, slow, and free
    86 F250 SD. RC,LWB, 300/6, NP 435, 4.10lsd Sterling- 96k miles. Sanford & Son status
    87 GMCP. Blue/blue cloth. Low option. Beat and bruised. Trans makes werewolf sounds.

    #2
    Welcome! The '87 models have the AOD transmission. Be sure to check and see if the tv cable is still connected to the linkage. The plastic grommet wears with age and will crack. A brass replacement is your friend.
    '79 Continental Town Car
    '90 Crown Victoria LTD
    '94 Crown Victoria

    Comment


      #3
      Thanks, '79! I'll make sure to check into it. And good to hear on the trans. Like I said I live less than a mile from the highway, 15miles down, then exit right to my parking lot will be this cars usual route. And great location btw. Had a stopover there when traveling from Maine to Kejimkujik a few years ago.

      Forgot to mention- I realize the pictures and ad are a little sketchy haha. The seller appears to be an older mech who is closing a small repair shop. Currently has about 10 vehicles listed, all FoMoCo products. I'll be sure to bring the skeptical girlfriend with me, but I'm hopefully it's not a total basket case.
      Dave- collector of the old, slow, and free
      86 F250 SD. RC,LWB, 300/6, NP 435, 4.10lsd Sterling- 96k miles. Sanford & Son status
      87 GMCP. Blue/blue cloth. Low option. Beat and bruised. Trans makes werewolf sounds.

      Comment


        #4
        yup, they all had the 4 speed, but if that cable came off and it smoked the overdrive band it quickly becomes a 3 speed.

        Standard rear in the wagons is usually a 3.08 but if it was a tow package car it'll be a 3.55 limited slip. Look for a transmission and power steering cooler in front of the radiator to see if its tow package.

        Check for rust, they like to go at the bottoms of the quarters behind the wheels, particularly on that hump on the passenger side where the spare tire lives. Also look at the frame on the passenger side, especially around the A pillar where the side rail does that dogleg inward for the rails under the engine. The AC drips on that spot and a hole in the frame is not uncommon. Make sure most of the frame is there yet and its fixable. If most of the frame is missing over there, pass on it. Expect the rest to be typical old car crap, worn suspension parts, oil leaks, etc. if they tell you its got a bad rear main seal, its more likely to be the back of the intake gasket thats blown out and puking oil, and nobody changes the PCV parts so it vomits worse. Valve cover leaks are also common.
        86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
        5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

        91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

        1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

        Originally posted by phayzer5
        I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

        Comment


          #5
          these never had an MAF. I'm doing the swap now: you still it from an (89+?) mustang: a9p computer, but I think there are other options.

          Comment


            #6
            looks like the power antenna might still work, if it's up!

            Comment


              #7
              Hopefully it's not the tow then Gadget. And I'd already put smell trans stick on my list, I'll check for a cooler while I'm at it. That'd be great to have a 3.08. And I'll look under the tire. I wonder what it is, I've owned 4 different wagons and every company seems to have that issue. And I'll bet the AC rust is an issue. Not sure where you're located, but our summers are a pain. Just got through several weeks of 100+F with humidity over 75%. Cars were leaving rivers at stoplights. And no worries on the neglected maintenance. I prefer it- means I get the car cheaper and get to know it. The truck I have now I got for free. One of the issues I was told about was bad rear main. Idiot was running it with NO valve cover gasket haha.

              And good call B, I hadn't noticed the antenna. I just had my fair share of antenna rage with another car, so even if it's stuck up I'll take it. And good to know on the MAF. Do you know what caused the reduction in mileage estimates for the last 3 wagon years then?
              Dave- collector of the old, slow, and free
              86 F250 SD. RC,LWB, 300/6, NP 435, 4.10lsd Sterling- 96k miles. Sanford & Son status
              87 GMCP. Blue/blue cloth. Low option. Beat and bruised. Trans makes werewolf sounds.

              Comment


                #8
                no idea. Better (more accurate) standards on the governments part with their ratings, is more likely than any change with the car. That is to say, maybe should have been the lower rating all along for all the years.

                If it's tow package, lots of folks would kill for your rear axle and would be happy to swap.
                These cars do better with 3.55s.
                I drive fast in my 1990 and get poor mileage, I just converted to 3.55 posi a few months back, but my sister has tow package on her 1989 colony park and gets 22 highway regularly still. Acceleration is better, of course, and you won't lug the engine and have to go into passing gear on every casual hill in overdrive with 3.55s instead of 3.08s.
                I'm here in Maryland, Baltimore to be exact-- same weather probably. Sucked a couple weeks ago; getting more tolerable now.

                Mine's rusted out at the 'torque box' also. At some point I'll have a section of plate steel grafted back on. Apparently we can install a rubber hose to funnel the water down away from that frame section: most contemporary cars do this now.
                The a/c might still work. Both my sister's and mine work fine, and hers is all original. Mine has been converted to r134, half-assed, with all original components and it works.

                For performance, I tried an explorer cam for low end torque and it is great for that. You'll stop pulling past 3500rpm though. So now I'm going back to an HO (stock mustang) cam. The performance 'alphabet' cams are not for our 4000# cars unless you have seriously steep rear gears to pull the rpms they do well at.
                I did also mildly modify my aod, and put in a mild stall converter, and a mustang governor (for higher rpm shift points)

                gt40 heads are a great mod, and even true gt40 heads should be $200. gt40p heads should be $100 now. They used to be the bee's knees, but serious racers have moved on to better things, and if you see someone on craigslist asking $375 for their gt40 heads, unless they just got some real machine work done to them, don't pay that. $500 gets you into the game of aftermarket heads that are at least as good as gt40s.
                The stock heads on our engines, are boat anchors and are the biggest restriction there, before you do intake, dual exhaust, and long before you bother with a k&n cone filter (which may be of little benefit).
                HO intakes are fine to point. I'm finally going to gt40 intakes, too, to match my higher rpm stock ho cam. But my explorer cam/ ho intake/ stock speed density/ gt40 head combo seems to be running beautifully. Again, just stops pulling past 3500rpm. If you want fuel economy, then you may not care/ may even prefer such a setup.
                If you don't want dick with your harness, I have a spare mark vii HO computer that I can give you that you can use to run an explorer or HO camshaft in your engine, speed density style. It plugs right into the stock harness, no mods needed.
                Well, there's a little more to that swap, but not a lot. It's as easy as an engine swap and then only a little bit more.
                Last edited by BerniniCaCO3; 07-22-2012, 12:45 AM.

                Comment

                Working...
                X