1998 MGM GS Ignition Key Lock Cylinder Break-in Attempt

[_Hacksaw]

Dear Forum Members;

First things first: This is my treasured white 1998 Mercury Grand Marquis. A good attempt to "steal" the entire car was made over Memorial Day Weekend here when I stayed home and just stayed off the road as I feared the roads that weekend. So far so good right? I moved my car that night ( Memorial day ) to a safe and empty space and it stood out I guess as there were no cars there or *very* few if any. Despite the blinking red light on the dash ( I thought I didn't need anything else to protect it as per the silly factory alarm that I was recently told does not go off if someone is even drilling into this car in any way? ) and after endless days at the local non-Ford parts house ( the key lock cylinder is missing and I have some wild broke parts or so I believe ) I gave out from exhaustion and endless stories, wrong switches, wrong orders, open box parts with missing parts and more. I finally had it towed to the *best* independant shop near me and finally, today, received a phone call and was told that they could not fix it and to gulp! Tow it to the %$#$#@! dealership. No way! I had it towed back to my neighborhood 5 minutes walk away and it's all finally parked again.

Briefly, after much work and this included charging the battery way up from 3.5 volts as they fled and left all sorts of lights on....when I connect the battery ground, the dash lights up in the usual way. The key FOB will open and lock all doors and trunk etc. With the missing key cylinder, I have access to the "gear" ( I can post pictures later ) and I can turn this gear with a screw driver, and......the starter will crank, but not start. If we freeze frame this story right here. Have you ever had this occur? Do you or does anyone else here have deep knowledge of this mechanism and it's working parts? My desire is to return this to it's original working condition *before* it was removed, along with the dilled into key hole on the driver side ( much eaiser I highly suspect, so lets keep that for later as it's minor almost ).

Question # 1. Is there any way to start my car as it is using the original key or screw driver etc. and actually get it to start? If not why? What is *preventing* it from just turning over. I am so close as the 'starter' tunrs over, but no gas or ignition. There has to be a way!

Question # 2. The steering wheel is not locked at this time ( understandable ). Are there 'parts' for that, that go on 'top' of that small gear? I do see a broken in half bar with the same hole in it as the gear has so I suspect it fit in there in some way as well.

Question # 3. Are there great pictures of this assembly vs. just very obscure diagrams? I tried Ford Parts.com but it's so small I cannot "see" anything clearly or at all. Can you?

Statement # 1 : I am fully aware that this may not be simple and I need to take this all slowly and carefully and with patience. Can I do this myself here across time or...do I have to pay untold thousands to the local ^%$#@! and still not have it all correct?

Statement # 2. : I have a red visible Club on the steering wheel as I type and feel anguish that I didn't have one before. While it's not a perfect answer...it's part of a comprehensive anti-theft program I will put into place.

Closing statement for today: I have calmed down a lot however....they really hit me where it hurts the most. While I have injuries prior ( I have disabled plated on this car ) and from a recent fall on pure concrete while on what I thought would be a safe walk two night ago....I am resting, healing and attempting to take this all in stride while attempting to stay in my 'state of grace' here. I'ts not easy also and yet you know this if you have been dragged to hell and thrown into the pit of life and then pushed harder...

So let's take this slowly and again I know there is a way.....and yes a correct way, however....what can I do now? Someone has dealt with this across time and much more I suspect here.

Sincerely;

_Hacksaw | 1998 Mecury Grand Marquis GS | VIN # 2MEFM74W2WX615647 TYPE: PASSENGER

p.s Am not sure how to post photos of the VIN sticker or anything else yet....so just let me know how as I suspect it will be helpful.

[Kodachrome Wolf]

If I had to assume, the PATS (Passive Anti-Theft System) is probably responsible for allowing the car to crank, but not start, since your ignition lock is missing. The system has a sensor ring that detects your key (there's a small chip coded to it) and allows for the car to start. That's why whoever tried stealing your car probably couldn't get away since it wouldn't start for them since they had no key. That's also why you can't start it with a screwdriver, since they key isn't present. I hope they didn't tear up the ignition area too bad, those sensor rings can be a PITA when replace them since they can be broken easily. I've had to redo one on a Mustang ('99 IIRC), but got everything working in the end. If you wanted to bypass that entirely, the PCM from a same year P71 can be swapped in which will disable it.

I assume a PATS light is probably flashing on the dash, if there is one.

You could try putting the key into the hole where the ignition switch was and then trying to use a screwdriver to crank the car. The car might detect the key, granted the sensor ring wasn't torn up. The ignition switch can be replaced with a unit from a junkyard, but you'd need keys to go with it and a way around the PATS unless you want to pay the dealer the $$$ to program it.

[GM_Guy]

Fuzzy memory, bypassing pats will also require jumpering a switch somewhere. P71s don't have the switch, but run a wire directly to ground instead.

Junkyard steering column might be a fast way to fix a lot of broken little things.

Alex.

[Mr Bean]

Your car cranks but won't start because PCM is disabling several systems. Fuel injectors, etc. When the ignition cylinder was broken that took out PATS receiver.

There is no way to bypass PATS, that would defeat the whole purpose. The only way to disable it is by replacing the PCM with a P71 PCM. Dealer route might be your best option unless you don't care about having PATS in which case just get a 98' CVPI PCM and call it a day.

[_Hacksaw]

Your car cranks but won't start because PCM is disabling several systems. Fuel injectors, etc. When the ignition cylinder was broken that took out PATS receiver.

There is no way to bypass PATS, that would defeat the whole purpose. The only way to disable it is by replacing the PCM with a P71 PCM. Dealer route might be your best option unless you don't care about having PATS in which case just get a 98' CVPI PCM and call it a day.

Fellows;

Please forgive my "silence" in this matter as per a very hard fall on the concrete sidewalk here on the 8th. and my related injuries. Briefly, this car can "easily" be started by by-passing the PATS system or fooling it to be more accurate and correct. Just use the gear that's in place that rotates and controls the ignition switch, put a screw driver in that will fit this keyed gear. Then take one of the original keys and hold it next to this screw driver about 1/2" to 1.5" from the key sensor ring at the front of the empty housing. Watch the red alarm light on the dash, day or night, and when you move the gear forward ( with screw driver ) to start or the position before this ( possibly on/run? ) it will stay a solid red vs. blinking rapidly to let you know that it has read the "key" transponder and you can then proceed to 'start' your car. It's ironically very simply *if* you have an original key and transponder and all else is working just fine ( the electronics ) as my are. I have been driving it this way and turning it off, while talking to parts dealers and have my old key fitted to a new key cylinder today. I will post a new photograph as I am stopped cold again as per the new replacement parts and need information as to "precisely" this retainer ring or bearing ( plastic & metal ) as they call it, all fit "Into" the housing and prevent the primary gear in this drama from moving around. I am close....however....eternal patience is required with these matters and it's very ambiguous.

So this is an update as well as a thanks to all who responded.

Sincerely;

_Hacksaw

[sly]

As long as the core of the ignition housing is ok, a new lock cylinder keyed to your key should fix it all.

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