Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

WTB: Duraspark II ignition box, wiring, distributor

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    #16
    Thank you, but I've already purchased an ignition box. just looking for a stock-looking or OEM distributor that will hook up.

    85 4 door 351 Civi Crown Victoria - Summer daily driver, sleeper in the making, and wildly inappropriate autocross machine
    160KMs 600cfm holley, shorty headers, 2.5" catted exhaust, 255/295 tires, cop shocks, cop swaybars, underdrive pulley, 2.73L gears.
    waiting for install: 3.27's, Poly bushings, boxed rear arms, 2500 stall converter, ported e7's, etc

    06 Mazda 3 hatch 2.3L 5AT (winter beater that cost more than my summer car)

    Comment


      #17
      Question ... by "wiring", do you mean the harness that goes between components or just the pigtails coming off the module? Your pic of your new module got me wondering, as you had said that it came with "wiring".
      2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

      Comment


        #18
        Originally posted by johnunit View Post
        Thank you, but I've already purchased an ignition box. just looking for a stock-looking or OEM distributor that will hook up.
        i know of an oem distributor in the yard from a 91 CV with a 351. i wont be getting back there for awhile, but im inquiring on buying the whole car.

        if i cant buy the whole thing, my friend could probably go grab it for you.
        1988 MGM GS - Preferred Equipment Package 172A; InstaClear

        1980 Lincoln Continental Coupe
        1994 MGM GS Montigua
        2005 F150 Lariat Scab 4x4 3.73 LS
        2002 Mustang GT Coupe

        Comment


          #19
          The distributors from a crown vic (unless it's modified) are not what I'm looking for, as they'll be the same as mine.


          By "wiring", I mean everything between the ends of the connectors you see in the pic Rad posted and the distributor housing. That's what I still need. With minimal wiring experience and a desire to keep it looking OEM, I'd like this to be as plug-and-play as possible.

          The "wiring" I was glad to have on the module that I picked up is what Rad's pick showed, as opposed to some OEM replacement pieces that appeared to just be the module itself with no wiring or connectors.

          85 4 door 351 Civi Crown Victoria - Summer daily driver, sleeper in the making, and wildly inappropriate autocross machine
          160KMs 600cfm holley, shorty headers, 2.5" catted exhaust, 255/295 tires, cop shocks, cop swaybars, underdrive pulley, 2.73L gears.
          waiting for install: 3.27's, Poly bushings, boxed rear arms, 2500 stall converter, ported e7's, etc

          06 Mazda 3 hatch 2.3L 5AT (winter beater that cost more than my summer car)

          Comment


            #20
            Logical. Though if you don't mind trying some wiring, aren't the connectors sometimes available separately? IMO, all-new wiring, even if you're not 100% sure of yourself at first, would offer increased peace of mind over 25-plus-year-old used stuff.

            Never seen modules with no pigtails attached, but then, I've never actually bought a DSII module either (as you know, neither of my cars are running full DSII ATM).
            2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

            Comment


              #21
              I see your point about wiring age, but even if the wiring was in questionable condition, it'd still be all there making replacing it wire-by-wire with new stuff still simpler than making it all from scratch.

              85 4 door 351 Civi Crown Victoria - Summer daily driver, sleeper in the making, and wildly inappropriate autocross machine
              160KMs 600cfm holley, shorty headers, 2.5" catted exhaust, 255/295 tires, cop shocks, cop swaybars, underdrive pulley, 2.73L gears.
              waiting for install: 3.27's, Poly bushings, boxed rear arms, 2500 stall converter, ported e7's, etc

              06 Mazda 3 hatch 2.3L 5AT (winter beater that cost more than my summer car)

              Comment


                #22
                This is a thought, too. Can run it for a while, then use it as a template to make a new one to make sure you get things right.
                2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

                Comment


                  #23
                  Maybe I missed something... but what is wrong with the distributor that you have in the car now?

                  I used mine when I did my 4 bbl swap and DS2 conversion.
                  **2012 Ford Mustang Boss 302: 5.0/ 6 spd/ 3.73s, 20K Cruiser
                  **2006 MGM,"Ultimate": 4.6/ 2.73/ Dark Tint, Magnaflows, 19s, 115K Daily Driver
                  **2012 Harley Davidson Wide Glide (FXDWG):103/ Cobra Speedsters/ Cosmetics, 9K Poseur HD Rider
                  **1976 Ford F-150 4WD: 360, 4 spd, 3.50s, factory A/C, 4" lift, Bilsteins, US Indy Mags, 35s Truck Duties

                  Comment


                    #24
                    A few places I've seen claim that the stock distributor doesn't have any way of changing mechanical advance and is, in general, not a good setup without the computer intervening.

                    Of course, I'd be pretty happy if you could set me straight on that and save me some time and money.

                    85 4 door 351 Civi Crown Victoria - Summer daily driver, sleeper in the making, and wildly inappropriate autocross machine
                    160KMs 600cfm holley, shorty headers, 2.5" catted exhaust, 255/295 tires, cop shocks, cop swaybars, underdrive pulley, 2.73L gears.
                    waiting for install: 3.27's, Poly bushings, boxed rear arms, 2500 stall converter, ported e7's, etc

                    06 Mazda 3 hatch 2.3L 5AT (winter beater that cost more than my summer car)

                    Comment


                      #25
                      My car used to ping quite a bit on anything but 93, but that would be indicative of too much timing.

                      Mechanical advance is just that. Timing brought in by weights and springs and centripetal acceleration. I wouldn't think the MCU would affect mechanical advance.
                      **2012 Ford Mustang Boss 302: 5.0/ 6 spd/ 3.73s, 20K Cruiser
                      **2006 MGM,"Ultimate": 4.6/ 2.73/ Dark Tint, Magnaflows, 19s, 115K Daily Driver
                      **2012 Harley Davidson Wide Glide (FXDWG):103/ Cobra Speedsters/ Cosmetics, 9K Poseur HD Rider
                      **1976 Ford F-150 4WD: 360, 4 spd, 3.50s, factory A/C, 4" lift, Bilsteins, US Indy Mags, 35s Truck Duties

                      Comment


                        #26
                        the story I got went something like this:

                        Reasonable initial timing (as in not too retarded) on pump gas is only feasible with the computer electronically "lopping the top off" the timing curve, because from the factory the mechanical and vacuum advance are too aggressive and you'll get ping. When ping is detected, the computer doesn't bump back the whole timing curve, just flattens out the top, allowing the cars to run 10-15* initial timing without pinging. With the electronics not there to compensate, you have to run a relatively retarded initial to prevent ping. This sort of sounds like what you had to do.

                        My impression was that a non-variable venturi distributor would allow more mucking about with the mechanical advance, preventing this issue.

                        85 4 door 351 Civi Crown Victoria - Summer daily driver, sleeper in the making, and wildly inappropriate autocross machine
                        160KMs 600cfm holley, shorty headers, 2.5" catted exhaust, 255/295 tires, cop shocks, cop swaybars, underdrive pulley, 2.73L gears.
                        waiting for install: 3.27's, Poly bushings, boxed rear arms, 2500 stall converter, ported e7's, etc

                        06 Mazda 3 hatch 2.3L 5AT (winter beater that cost more than my summer car)

                        Comment


                          #27
                          Well, that sounds logical.

                          When you said changing mechanical advance, I assumed you meant that the MCU didn't bring enough in, rather than pulling timing back.

                          I never really thought of it that way. Hell, thats probably why I had detonation issues with mine.
                          **2012 Ford Mustang Boss 302: 5.0/ 6 spd/ 3.73s, 20K Cruiser
                          **2006 MGM,"Ultimate": 4.6/ 2.73/ Dark Tint, Magnaflows, 19s, 115K Daily Driver
                          **2012 Harley Davidson Wide Glide (FXDWG):103/ Cobra Speedsters/ Cosmetics, 9K Poseur HD Rider
                          **1976 Ford F-150 4WD: 360, 4 spd, 3.50s, factory A/C, 4" lift, Bilsteins, US Indy Mags, 35s Truck Duties

                          Comment


                            #28
                            You should be using the DII distributor just as a trigger for a MSD 6AL. The MSD can be placed behind your glove box out of the way of a critical eye and the DII box will be in the engine compartment just for looks. You can run a harness which looks stock but hides your MSD wiring.
                            Autozone carries a reman distributor which had an original application of the 351W HO truck motors for $47.99 plus core of $9. The part number is 30-2875. They also carry an original replacement for your car which is part number 30-2895 and is $44.99 with a $14 core. Either one will likely have to be ordered but would be there in a couple of days. I ordered one for a '85 Mustang roller cam application with the steel gear and it came in overnight. That is the one to use if you convert a 86+ Crown Vic over to carb and want a DII (looking) ignition.
                            Last edited by Mercracer; 12-14-2010, 05:54 AM.

                            Comment


                              #29
                              Yeah, I haven't figured out why he wants a used distributor. I bought one off eBay once and after examining the seized shaft and getting weird looks trying to purchase a steel gear, I quickly determined that the only use I had for it was to use it as a core exchange on a new reman at AutoZone.
                              2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

                              Comment


                                #30
                                new ones are unobtanium locally, and anything that long, fleabay sellers charge LARGE for shipping to get them here.

                                85 4 door 351 Civi Crown Victoria - Summer daily driver, sleeper in the making, and wildly inappropriate autocross machine
                                160KMs 600cfm holley, shorty headers, 2.5" catted exhaust, 255/295 tires, cop shocks, cop swaybars, underdrive pulley, 2.73L gears.
                                waiting for install: 3.27's, Poly bushings, boxed rear arms, 2500 stall converter, ported e7's, etc

                                06 Mazda 3 hatch 2.3L 5AT (winter beater that cost more than my summer car)

                                Comment

                                Working...
                                X