Big Brake Upgrade Need Performance Pad Suggestions.

[87stars_stripes]

I have upgraded my front brakes to the late model 12.375 discs, but I still don't think it's stopping like it should be capable of. I'm running some "Centric" brand semi-metallic pads off RockAuto for $12 but I think a performance pad will make the entire difference. I was told that Hawk Pads are excellent by a circle track racer and I see that ADTR carries them as well. I am open to any and all front and rear pad suggestions. Cost effective would be ideal, but I would pay extra for a pad that is going to perform better considering I just spent $900 on converting to big brakes I'm not going to skimp on pad material. Any opinions on rotor stopping distance, rotor wear, pad life etc. Please advise.

[gadget73]

I've had the same Performance Friction pads on my car for a lot of years now. They went on in 2007 I think, and when I pulled them last summer there was still something like 50% pad left and the rotors are in perfect condition. Thats about 60k miles of driving. THey aren't particularly dusty, don't make noise, an seem to work just fine. I'd buy them again.

[turbo2256b]

Raybestos make some high performance police pads. On police tranig courses they hacve bee cought on fire and kept going. THEY ALSO HAVE SPECIAL LOADED ONLY CALIPERS WITH SPECIAL SILICONE SEELS and boots. Have linked to were I purchased them at fleet prices but doubt if anybody listens

[87stars_stripes]

Hmm. Well, i see the test video on the Performance Friction pads. Seem like the guys driving are pretty impressed.

[87stars_stripes]

Now Autozone doesn't list the Performance Friction brand.

[turbo2256b]

http://www.rokbrothers.com/police_fleets.php

Used the Raybestos SS pads withthe PI calipers on Creamy they stopped great and were still good to go after 100K on them

[turbo2256b]

Curently using some 75.00 pads (susposed to be the shit) on my dually with sloted roters and they dont do as well as the factory pads did.
Should look upo to see what Raybestos hads. Thier stuff and deifferent grades can be difficult to find but never been dissatisfied.

[87stars_stripes]

Screw it. Ebay has em for cheap!

[turbo2256b]

heads up on the pads on the truck are not Raybestos but high end Centrics or such and were at a discount.

Cheepes usally have high dust issues.

[jaywish]

Just some general info on pads.

Performance/racing pads Work great when they are hot. Not good at all when they are not hot. So they are good for autocross but not good for regular DD.

Factory pads are aggressive at ambient temps. Most general driving involves needing the brakes when they are cold. They tend to fade at high temps as they are biased to general driving needs which is not normally aggressive stop after aggressive stop etc. So very good for the 1st stop or two. not that great for repeated hard stops. Still this is probably a fine choice for a DD vehicle.

There are also pads like the Centric Extended wear pads. They are designed to have a flat fade curve.
Not the best at cold, but better than racing pads.
Not the best at hot, but better than OEM style pads.

Also very often better braking performance can be had by adjusting the rear brakes if you still have drums. Try that first.

[87stars_stripes]

I have 00 P71 rear discs and calipers. So there will be no adjustment there. I am curious to see if the matching late model master cylinder improves the application of the rears as it has been reported to by Gadget and others. I understand there is a trade off amongst most pad compounds, but from what I see in the Performance Friction demo video on the Crown Vic, the drivers were very impressed. Let's put it this way, I have owned a 2004 Mustang Cobra with the 13" fronts and disc rears. I felt very confident in my stopping ability at all speeds because of the power of that braking system. I understand vehicle dynamics and weight, but there is no reason this thing doesn't pull this car to a stop better than it currently does given the fact that it has very powerful calipers and large rotors in the front as well as good rear discs and a suspension that can control it. There has to be a pad that can provide better stopping, and I am willing to bet that the master cylinder will make a big difference. If that doesn't get me what I expect, then I will experiment with a proportioning valve.

[turbo2256b]

Heads up all pads shoes are crap once asbestos was outlawed. Thats why brakes got bigger and wheels got bigger.
Pads on my truck are for HD trucs like a F350 dually.
Pads currently on Creamy second best dusty ass NAPA offers. not bad but not equall to low dust SS Raybestos for stopping in any conditions.

[jaywish]

I have the original master. I gutted and reamed out the rear brake restrictor/pressure retainer and added an adjustable proportioning valve for the rear brakes. I have the adjustable valve all the way open.

[turbo2256b]

Whos adjuster did you use some do more than others. Also if its a drum disc combo a residual pressure valve should be used I use a 10PSI Willwood unit

[jaywish]

It is disk/disk so I removed/defeated the residual pressure valve it the rear restrictor. It is a Wilwood adjustable valve.
Probably should have lubed it with plumbers grease as it is getting very stiff after just a couple of winters. I turn it every few months to keep it from freezing up but it is getting progressively harder.