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Rear Swaybar/Poly Bushing Install

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    #16
    ENOUGH, goddamnit.
    1983 Grand Marquis 2Dr Sedan "Mercules"
    Tremec TKO conversion, hydraulic clutch, HURST equipped!

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      #17
      Dont make me sanitize this thread kids.

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        #18
        Originally posted by mercenvy
        Wow, that is such a good idea! I noticed you have the greaseable bushings, too! I wasn't able to locate them, but the ones I have work OK. How big is that rear bar and what year Panther is it in?I have the greaseable fronts, though...
        The muffler clamp doesn't slide, though, does it?
        1.25 front, 1.0" rear bar by addco, the best bang for the buck mod, need to get some freaking bilsteins soon.

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          #19
          Is the mounting point for the 92+ rear bar any different on the 92+ from the 91-? As in... the point at which a 92+ bar mounts- is that stronger on the 92+? I hear it's a really weak spot for the 91-, so if I go with the newer bar, how hard would it be to reinforce that location?
          2011 Mustang GT Premium, MT82, Kona/Saddle, HIDs, 3.73s, 19s, hood/side stripes, UPR 1.5" springs with adjustable panhard bar, and UMI solid LCAs and relocation brackets.
          1992 Explorer Eddie Bauer, slight lift, 34s, and A/C...
          1979 Bronco Custom, 351M/C6/NP205, 4" lift, 35s, lots of fender trimming.

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            #20
            ..
            Last edited by mercenvy; 07-10-2006, 02:54 AM.
            My car is a Shelby SVT Cobra GT Boss Grand Marquis Type R

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              #21
              ,,
              Last edited by mercenvy; 07-10-2006, 02:54 AM.
              My car is a Shelby SVT Cobra GT Boss Grand Marquis Type R

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                #22
                Originally posted by mercenvy
                Sounds like it may be for the best. Maybe the 4.6 section is't your cup of tea. If you ignore me then you won't have to read my "B.S." anyomore so you will be happier. I wasn't pissed that "nobody answered my post". It was mostly your attitude about the whole thing. What's that saying...if you have nothing nice to say.....

                I know it is your opinion that the front bar doesn't mean crap. Maybe it's because you are running such stiff springs, IDK. I DO know that it made a significant difference in the handling of MY car. Which is not a box, and not a wagon. You are entitled to your opinion, but blanket statements such as the ones you made are innacurate and detract from the purpose for this thread in the first place. Going around saying that "the front bar doesn't mean crap" is certainly somewhat discouraging to those who are thinking of ugrading their front bar. This mod is easy to do and cheap, and what-90% of the people who have done it say it is the best bang-for-the-buck mods they have done. Why do you have to come with your negative comments, especially when you are talking about a box wagon anyways?
                Maybe I'll be "alone in here" but I've still got some more pics and they are worthy. So just let me go about my business(in 4.6) and you go about yours(in 5.0, 5.8 or wagons)...
                This crap needs to go to the battlefield if this continues......to tell you the truth the front bar does the most. Many people use the addco, front and a hpp rear bar. Stiffer rear bars make a difference, But the front does the most, that is why it is bigger. It has the most force on it. Lighter rear bars allow oversteer which is better than understeer anyday. You can counter steer the back end, but in understeer, you cannot do anything. I prefer both front and back to be matched for a balanced reaction, Thats why I used Addco front and rear bars.

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                  #23
                  ..
                  Last edited by mercenvy; 07-10-2006, 02:55 AM.
                  My car is a Shelby SVT Cobra GT Boss Grand Marquis Type R

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                    #24
                    thank you

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                      #25
                      You can make your own greasable bushings, they are not as effective as the purpose built ones, but greasable none the less.

                      You will need to get some Zerk fittings. They can be found in auto part stores. you will need to drill the clamp and the bushing make sure the holes line up. install the Zerk in the clamp. now you can inject grease directly to the inside of the bushing.
                      http://secondhandracing.com/Home.aspx
                      http://secondhandradio.com/

                      R.I.P. Jason P Harrill 6-12-06

                      http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthread.php?t=5634

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                        #26
                        ..
                        Last edited by mercenvy; 07-10-2006, 02:55 AM.
                        My car is a Shelby SVT Cobra GT Boss Grand Marquis Type R

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                          #27
                          Originally posted by mercenvy
                          Well the rears are so easy to take off, If they ever start sqeaking I'll just remove the clamps and re-lube with that lube they sell.
                          Good point on making your own, though.
                          I do have the greaseable fronts...

                          If you are feeling adventerous you can do that to your control arm bushings. You want to remove the inner sleeve, drill through the shell and the bushing, and reinstall the inner sleeve. We did this on my brothers Thunderbird.
                          http://secondhandracing.com/Home.aspx
                          http://secondhandradio.com/

                          R.I.P. Jason P Harrill 6-12-06

                          http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthread.php?t=5634

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                            #28
                            ..
                            Last edited by mercenvy; 07-10-2006, 02:55 AM.
                            My car is a Shelby SVT Cobra GT Boss Grand Marquis Type R

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