Voltage ???????

[cleanmerc01]

are you talkin about the power wire from alt to battery or the wires from the plug??? the plug that has like 3 wires comin from it and go somewhere. i have replace the power wire from the alt to fuse box, i ran 0-gauge wire and went straight to battery.

[gadget73]

durr, 01, right, there still should be fuse links in it, though I think yours are actually right at the fuse box where the charge cable from the alternator connects. Its the fat cable from the alternator.

Oh, does the alt or batt light come on when you turn the key to on, with the engine not running? If the lamp is out, the alternator won't charge.

[cleanmerc01]

gadget i didnt run a fuse and i ran to battery not fuse box. i ran a wire from battery to fuse box. i went ahead a bought new alt. and battery. i think it's fixed the voltage does drop still but not as much and it goes right back very little drop but i think that normal right????? i will be putting in fuse tomorrow. is there a fuse in that box for the charging????

[gadget73]

The original system used fuse links at the fuse box for the charging system. They should have been good for 200-250 amps. Honestly I'd just use the stock charging system fusing and cable. Its heavy enough.

And the "big three" is related to grounding, battery to engine, battery to body, body to engine.

[gadget73]

The original system used fuse links at the fuse box for the charging system. They should have been good for 200-250 amps. Honestly I'd just use the stock charging system fusing and cable. Its heavy enough.

And the "big three" is related to grounding, battery to engine, battery to body, body to engine.

[cleanmerc01]

i didnt run a new ground from the engine to body. you think i should???? since all the other grounds are ran with 0-gauge but i left the stock ground strap from firewall to engine alone. i fryed the e brake cable to the frame. i didnt wrap some garden hose around were i fryed it at. i am about to drive it around now and will see if new battery and alt fixed the problem. if you can think of anything else let me know. i not going to run a big system again i just running a 600 watt amp to my components thats good enough.

[gadget73]

If you're cooking the parking brake cable, it sounds like its being used as a ground because some other ground connection is not doing it's job. Re-check your existing grounds, and upgrade the body to engine ground.

[cleanmerc01]

yea i cooked the e-brake cable when i shorted out the system. basicly a screw i used for the fuse holder was touching frame and power wire from isolator. the result was smoke and a cooked e-brake cable. the suprising thing was the fuses in power wire never blew. but the good news is i think it's fixed so yea my headache gone. i will install fuse in line from alt to battery annd run 0-gauge wire from body to engine tomorrow. THANKS EVERYBODY FOR THE HELP. THIS FORUM IS COOL EVERYBODY HELPED AND DIDNT GIVE ME A BUNCH OF CRAP IN THE PROCESS

[cleanmerc01]

ok i drove today and it seems to be somewhat fixed i was wondering how much everybody elses gauges move when blower on high and lights on when you hit brakes??? mine moves very slightly sometimes sometimes alittle more i still confused.

[sly]

the gauge on my 93 will drop when I hit the brakes with everything on. it's a normal load thing. as long as it doesn't drop more than an eighth of the normal range (or below ~13V with a working alternator and a gauge that actually has numbers), it should be fine. You'll have to run a high output (re: 200+ amp) alternator and at least 2 deep cycle batteries and beef up the wires to pretty much everything to keep the needle dead on.