possibly bad ignition switch? help please.....

[DaTurboSix]

im stumped on this one...

2008 CVPI, ive let it sit for about 2 weeks now(driving a work vehicle)
will not start, will not crank, doesnt even have power when you turn the key on. radio doesnt work. dash doesnt light up. it literally does NOTHING in any position the key is turned.

BUT, i have power for my lights, door locks, trunk release, ect...
and they all work great

ive checked over a few relays and fues under the hood, but this was late last night in the dark. i left it get a game plan and go back today to play with it.

any thoughts?
main power fuse? ignition switch?

[miamibob]

See if this helps sort out the issue:

http://www.aa1car.com/library/ignition_switch.htm

[GM_Guy]

Is it an ex cop car? If so, remove the column shroud, and look for any wires going to the ignition switch (you'll know it when you see it, its on the "out" side.) and inspect for cut & spliced wires.
After checking fuses and such, pull the underhood fusebox and look for corrosion and more cut 'n spliced stuff if it was a cop car.

Some possible usefull attachments.

Alex.

[DaTurboSix]

yes its a ex-cop car.
i have the column torn down now and tried a new ignition switch, with no change.
fuses are all good. both panel(inside and engine bay) both have power.

i have power at the ignition switch

[DaTurboSix]

whats the likely hood of the the PCM took a shit?

[GM_Guy]

Zero.

Hopefully you have a quiet place where the car sits, but do you hear the fuel pump activate when you turn the key to run position?

What is the battery voltage just sitting there?

Hook your voltmeter to battery ground and to the small terminal on the starter, turn they key to start it any voltage present? If so, what?

If nothing, see if you have voltage on the other side of the transmission DTR sensor (aka neutral safety start switch). And then the fuse is easy to monitor for voltage -check BOTH sides for voltage when you go to crank it. Do not rely on visual check of the fuse as that is unreliable as the fuse actually can look good, and it can actually pass a continuity check with a voltmeter even if it is bad. The shock of a higher load can cause a fractured element to separate killing power.

Alex.

[gadget73]

Small. The PCM can be removed from the car and the radio and stuff would still come on. It might even crank without a PCM. Sounds more like a problem in the fuse box or in the power feed to the interior of the car. Might be a shitty connection inside of the fuse box. They grow green cheese sometimes. Did you by chance pull all of the fuses from the under-hood panel? Any that are crusty may indicate problems inside the box.

[DaTurboSix]

i have no fuel pump activity. no prime, no run.

battery voltage is 12.4
even had a jump cable hooked from a running car and had voltage up to 13.5

Zero.

Hopefully you have a quiet place where the car sits, but do you hear the fuel pump activate when you turn the key to run position?

What is the battery voltage just sitting there?

Hook your voltmeter to battery ground and to the small terminal on the starter, turn they key to start it any voltage present? If so, what?

If nothing, see if you have voltage on the other side of the transmission DTR sensor (aka neutral safety start switch). And then the fuse is easy to monitor for voltage -check BOTH sides for voltage when you go to crank it. Do not rely on visual check of the fuse as that is unreliable as the fuse actually can look good, and it can actually pass a continuity check with a voltmeter even if it is bad. The shock of a higher load can cause a fractured element to separate killing power.

Alex.

[sxcpotatoes]

CVPI didn't have the PATS key bullshit, right? Or did they?

[DaTurboSix]

no pats on PI cars.