H4 headlights?

[grimor]

..

One of my crazy ideas, is thunderbolt style ram air...

keep the outside headlights, but make the inners into ram air inlets! :rock:

it's been done, not really any benifit even with a MAF ofther than slightly colder air (and bugs) but dues to the bends needed to get the air to the intake you lose most of the RAM effect..

[Grand Marquis GT]

:picsorst:

[danmanmain]

Is the silver star a direct replacement for the sealed enclosures, or is it just a bulb (in which case I would have to do the H4 conversion right)? Also, I don't quite understand why running relays will help. Could you elaborate on this?

You can get silver stars in either sealed beams, h1 or h4 replacements. Me myself, if you do alot of night driving you can't not upgrade your lighting system. They are very bright in the sealed beams and H4/H1 bulb replacements.

If you decide on going on h4 and h1 replacement I suggest hella or another comparable brand. your lows will be 50% brighter and your highs will be 25% brighter than using the sealed beams.

Whatever you deiced to do bulb wise. Running relays is one of the best thing you can do to your lighting system. Especially if you set it up as a secondary system...

It will make your headlight switch last alot longer, since the load is removed. The stock system becomes only a trigger. some of the factory wiring is a joke. think about it. You don't run stock wiring to win a stereo competition.

My relay harness plugs into my stock harness. Then the headlights now plug into my new headlight harness. 10gauge wire taking the positive directly from the battery. The each light bulb is directly ground to the core support. witch has a flexible ground strap on it from the battery, I'm ground from the battery to block, battery to the body, block to body.

If either my fuse or one of the relays fails on this system fails, I can simply unplug it and plug in the stock setup. Every connection has a liberal amount of dielectric grease. Do this while the lights are lit and engine is running on a dark road. You will see the difference from unregulated and regulated voltage for your lights.

To do a complete upgrade, expect to spend $200-$300, the harness, the lamps, bulbs and loose parts. But it will make a big difference.

On my 1989 lincoln town car with 1980 MK VI front end (the doors don't work yet) I have added harness wich is running a pair of h4 5.75 Euro spec's with city lights with using h1 euro specs and relays. A big help over the #H5006 and H50001. I found out once, that its not always easy to find the correct sealed beam bulbs at every but every place carries h4's... Very bright (55w/60w is legal!) and semi legal with the euro specs.

My 1986 colony park has a harness, but have not aquired h4/h1 yet. But with even the stock #H4656and #H4651 it helps and its piece of mind.

[Nathan in MI]

Holy old thread!!!

[gabegt90]

Holy old thread!!!

+1

[Archangel]

Danmanmain, what harness are ya using? In the Town Car I have 4-relay main one for the headlights and a secondary 2-relay one for the fogs, main one actually controls the fogs. I have all the wiring done myself, and I'll be redoing it again some time soon cause right now headlight replacement just sucks. I use Silverstar H4666 lights, they are actually made for vehicles with only 2 headlights so they are rated at 55/65W instead of the regular 45/60 for the H4656. Also I use four of the combined low-hi lights, so even on low beams I have 4 lights on. Highs also engages the fog lights too, so I have right about 460W of lighting. When doing the rewiring soon I'll throw some diodes in there so I can keep the lows on when the highs come on, that'll give me right about 680W of light power - yeah, I'm gonna be able to see every crack on the road from like 2 miles away, lol