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    Beginning Explorer Swap

    Alright, my stock 5.0 is kaput so its time to change it up. I'm starting this thread because I'm a huge newb and while I'd like to share the experience of doing the swap, I'd also like you guys to feel free to point out where I'm going wrong if I am going wrong. Thanks in advance.

    Picked up a 1997 Ford Explorer 5.0 with 40,000 miles on it. While the motor is out of the car, I'd like to possibly cam it and do some "streetable" modifications. Not looking to build a monster here, but something that moves the barge with reasonable effect would be cool. I'm going to do some 3.83s in the rear and the 4R70 innards on the trans. I've got a good friend with some Ford background (PI swap Thunderbird, SHO guru, etc) working with me on it, but he's fairly new to the 5.0 stuff.

    Talking transmission here, he's saying I should grab one from a Mark VIII as it was the better of the 4R70 units out there. Yay or nay or no difference? Also wondering if I can use the injectors in the picture, or if I'm going to need something else. Going to be running a Mark VII computer.

    Attached are motor shots and a pic of the beast.
    Attached Files

    #2
    Upgrade the valve springs. The explorer springs aren't that good.

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by 86VickyLX View Post
      Upgrade the valve springs. The explorer springs aren't that good.
      who makes a decent set? i normally use eibachs on my imports but they don't seem to have a 302 app newer than 1981. any recommendation?

      Comment


        #4
        As far as I know, 4R70w guts are 4R70w guts, doesn't really matter which car it was in. The V8 ones do have an extra clutch pack or something, but Mark VIII ones are not significantly better or worse. You probably do want a later trans if possible, there were some improvements over the years like the mechanical diode. I'm not a trans guy so I can't give you year by year differences but if you've got a choice between a 98 and a 93 trans, take the 98 one. 88grandmarq on here knows transmissions, and you may find some specifics you're after at clickclickracing.com. They have a fairly in-depth sticky with all manner of AOD information.

        HO cam or the Explorer cam in that motor will rock and roll. I've driven a bone stock Explorer motor with a wide ratio AOD in a Towncar, and that thing screamed, at least until the valves floated horribly.

        Injectors look like orange 19# units. As long as the electrical connector is the same (should be), they'll work. I'm running a set out of a 96 Explorer motor in my car.

        Some valve spring info here: http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthre...ngs#post385074

        Not sure if those are the absolute best or not. I told the machine shop what I was planning to do with my heads, and I'm letting them tell me what I need. The springs have not yet been ordered as far as I'm aware. Whats on my P heads currently are HO springs, and he measured out they are good for .450 lift at 5000 rpm based on seat pressures. Stock HO cam is .444 lift, and the AOD's WOT shift point is 4800 stock, so as you can see they left very little margin of safety with those springs. The Explorer springs are even worse.
        86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
        5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

        91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

        1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

        Originally posted by phayzer5
        I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by gadget73 View Post

          HO cam or the Explorer cam in that motor will rock and roll. I've driven a bone stock Explorer motor with a wide ratio AOD in a Towncar, and that thing screamed, at least until the valves floated horribly.

          .
          thanks for the wealth of info. still toying with the idea of a cam.

          FREE SHIPPING! Street Performance. This cam is a good replacement choice for the High Output (HO) 5.0 that was featured in the later Foxbody Mustangs for mild s


          is that worth it if i keep the stock pushrods and lifters? is that even runnable on stock rods and lifters?

          Comment


            #6
            if i remember correctly,the electronic aod has more friction discs,higher capacity OD band,improved lubrication system. Many of the improvements to the newer trans can be adapted to the prior aod.(valve bodies wont interchange)I think there are even chips to change the shifts on the electronic trans too.
            [URL="http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3358314"]

            Comment


              #7
              May need different pushrods if you change the cam. Its not going to play happy with the speed density though so you're pretty much going to have to go mass air. MA is not a big deal honestly but its just something else to be aware of.
              86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
              5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

              91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

              1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

              Originally posted by phayzer5
              I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

              Comment


                #8
                I would suggest leaving the stock cam.

                I am running a plain old 6 banger 4r70w guts in my wagon, and I have autocrossed a hell of a lot, drag raced, and just plain abused it. Still going strong. Some odd valve body issues, but no breakage.

                I will also add, I actually kinda wish I had just a plain AOD. The shift points are all screwy because of the WR gearset.
                Builder/Owner of Badass Panther Wagons

                Busy maintaining a fleet of Fords

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by Velvet Elvis View Post
                  I will also add, I actually kinda wish I had just a plain AOD. The shift points are all screwy because of the WR gearset.
                  Ditto.


                  I'd also recommend port-matching the lower intake ports where they mate with the heads.
                  Last edited by Guest; 09-10-2009, 08:56 PM.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    ok so keep the explorer cam and upgrade the springs and lifters? got it. i'm also looking at headers and assuming mustang BBK shorties work fine, unless you guys recommend anything better. thinking some dual tips out the back aside each of the bumperettes. my buddy is also selling a ZEX wet kit and i want an honest opinion on nitrous when it comes to this engine - yay, nay, how much, etc.

                    thanks, you all are geniuses.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Lifters? I haven't heard of a reason to change the lifters unless the old ones have failed somehow. Fancier high-performance lifters for the stock retainer system can be had for around $200 a set, but they seem to be more for motors with crazy cams.

                      The Explorer cam should work OK with the stock Vic shift governor (4000rpm), as that'll be close to your RPM at peak horsepower anyway. I've got stock replacement Mustang springs ($67 from Ford) on the motor I stuck my Explorer cam into, but like a dolt, I've been dragging my feet and haven't even fired it since over two years ago when it had E6 heads with stock Vic springs and a Mustang cam.

                      Dual exhaust is easy with the approach Scott scienced out .... for a mild motor I'd lean toward a 2.25" H pipe into stock 2" tailpipes. I found that stock mufflers for a '95 Caprice are 2.25" in and 2" out, and I have a set of those under one of my cars.

                      1-1/2" headers are somewhat preferable to 1-5/8", but I still haven't seen a reference to a 1-1/2" header that's actually decent quality. Almost all of the good ones, such as the BBKs you're likely looking at, are 1-5/8", so that's what most people run, regardless of performance level. I have a set of Flowtech 12106s with 1-1/2" primaries, but they're really kind of junky, and the oval ports are a pain during installation and require you to hunt down oval-port gaskets. Also, stock HO headers represent a decent upgrade over Panther manifolds, and can be had very cheaply.

                      If you spray it, keep in mind that the Exploder pistons are hypereutectic, not forged like the '86-'93 Mustang slugs.
                      2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by 1987cp View Post
                        Lifters? I haven't heard of a reason to change the lifters unless the old ones have failed somehow. Fancier high-performance lifters for the stock retainer system can be had for around $200 a set, but they seem to be more for motors with crazy cams.

                        The Explorer cam should work OK with the stock Vic shift governor (4000rpm), as that'll be close to your RPM at peak horsepower anyway. I've got stock replacement Mustang springs ($67 from Ford) on the motor I stuck my Explorer cam into, but like a dolt, I've been dragging my feet and haven't even fired it since over two years ago when it had E6 heads with stock Vic springs and a Mustang cam.

                        Dual exhaust is easy with the approach Scott scienced out .... for a mild motor I'd lean toward a 2.25" H pipe into stock 2" tailpipes. I found that stock mufflers for a '95 Caprice are 2.25" in and 2" out, and I have a set of those under one of my cars.

                        1-1/2" headers are somewhat preferable to 1-5/8", but I still haven't seen a reference to a 1-1/2" header that's actually decent quality. Almost all of the good ones, such as the BBKs you're likely looking at, are 1-5/8", so that's what most people run, regardless of performance level. I have a set of Flowtech 12106s with 1-1/2" primaries, but they're really kind of junky, and the oval ports are a pain during installation and require you to hunt down oval-port gaskets. Also, stock HO headers represent a decent upgrade over Panther manifolds, and can be had very cheaply.

                        If you spray it, keep in mind that the Exploder pistons are hypereutectic, not forged like the '86-'93 Mustang slugs.
                        ok for the Hpipe, whats a good brand unless we're talking stock here? and in terms of spray, how much is considered 'safe' on this engine. i'm aware of the hypereutective setup on the engine, i had tried to pick up an SVT 93 engine but could not find one i felt like shelling out for in comparison to what an explorer engine cost me.

                        with the springs and lifters, i figured if the lifters are coming out to do the springs anyways, might as well change them. i also was curious if i need to machine anything for a dual spring setup.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Catco makes the cheapest aftermarket catted H that I know of. 2.25" and still around $300 at Summit. Non-catted pipes can obviously be had cheaper, if you think you can get away with it ....

                          Dual springs will be pretty much a waste of money for this build. New lifters will run you about $120 or more, anyway.
                          2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by 1987cp View Post
                            Catco makes the cheapest aftermarket catted H that I know of. 2.25" and still around $300 at Summit. Non-catted pipes can obviously be had cheaper, if you think you can get away with it ....

                            Dual springs will be pretty much a waste of money for this build. New lifters will run you about $120 or more, anyway.
                            fair enough, i'll do a single spring then. cars older than 1995 do not get tested for emissions here so i'll be running catless then.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              That works. 2.5" H pipes are a common option, though I've had trouble locating prefabricated catless 2.25" crossovers.
                              2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

                              Comment

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