Super Simple Questions

[gadget73]

I had to replace a set that were 3 months old, probably had less than 2000 miles on them. The car started running like shit. It was a CFI car, and it would hitch and buck so bad going up a hill it got worrisome if it was going to make the top. Put a USED set of wires on it and the problem went away. I have the same brand wires as failed horribly on the CFI car on my Mark VII, and they have been fine for 5 years and some 30k miles.

[DerekTheGreat]

I've watched plenty of those videos where people clear the cobwebs and nests from cars that have been sitting for 15+ years and they get 'em going again. Most everything is original, except for the oil I hope but on others they've rebuilt the carb and changed stuff. I personally got an 1985 F250 with that HO 351 going again after it had sat for 10 years. Owner said I could have it if I got it off her property and that's what I did. Everything was crusty, PO's son did that retard move of flipping the air cleaner lid and so rat piss/water was able to collect and drain down into the carb and froze the motor, Good thing my buddy makes a habit of going to the gym because I put him to work on the crank with a breaker bar lol. Once we got a full 360 degree rotation of the crank we brought out the starting fluid and it fired up, oil in the water and everything. Engine didn't even smoke, I thought for sure if it did run it would have issues with oil consumption but nope. Once we unstuck the driver's side caliper, bent some brake lines and changed the oil we beat the crap out of it on their make-shift dirt track and then scrapped it.

Come to think of it, the wires and plugs on my TC were original when I got it. 88k miles and 27 years later they still worked just fine. I changed that stuff out but it didn't make any noticeable difference aside from the thing having to relearn it's idle.

[88Vic]

The plug wires are original. I'll take the IAC and EGR off, clean them up as necessary and see if that works. If not, plugs are next.

[88Vic]

Just replaced that passenger side fender mounted starter relay, and the 12v/20amp circuit breaker on it, still not cranking. I can start it by arcing the relay, but not with the key. I'm thinking the ignition switch is the problem. If it were the solenoid/starter, it wouldn't start at all.

[sly]

does the fender solenoid work if you jump the big terminal to the little wire terminal. Those things have been known to be bad out of the box.

also, you did put it on in the right direction? There is a specific way they are supposed to be mounted. If you got it backwards, try putting the small wire(s) on the other post.

[88Vic]

Yeah I installed it the right way, followed the directions that came with it. That wasn't it. Got a jump wire and connected it from the battery to the solenoid and it cranked, so I knew it had to be the ignition switch. changed that out, fires up fine now.

Still have the misfire, gotta clean out the IAC and EGR still, then wires. If it still misses, I'll assume it's vacuum related and it'll wait until I rip it all apart.

[sly]

yup. you got it covered. ignition switch shenanigans cause all kinds of stupid weirdness.

[GM_Guy]

When I got my GMC (which had been sitting in a barn for 15 years, it had plug wires of unknown vintage, not originals since they where AC Delco packard wires, but she ran smooth, wet weather was not a problem, but poking at them they where stiff as a rock (they are the under the exhaust manifold variety, so get cooked) when I got my replacements, I was amazed with just how bad the wires where as I pulled them out. The casing had split open on a few of them (I may have posted a picture of one here) and where oil soaked. But she still ran without a miss. The new wires I put on it, didn't make a lick of difference in how it ran. Go figure.

Alex.

[88Vic]

It happened again. It started fine this morning, but after work I got nothing. I had to arc the solenoid to get home. After I parked it and shut it off, I tried it again, and it was having trouble but it would crank. Felt like there's a bad connection somewhere, so now I gotta take it all apart again and check all the wiring.

I knew I should have left it all apart until I had driven it a while with no problems.

FML

[GM_Guy]

Run a wire from the starter solenois S terminal (the little one) into the passenger cabin. Connect a voltmeter +ve to that wire, and clip the voltmeter -ve to the ground bus bar under the dash. Anytime you go to start it, watch the voltmeter, should show battery voltage when you turn the key. If not, ignition switch, or a wire on that circuit is broken/shorting randomnly.

Alex.

[88Vic]

Still haven't had time to work on it (and not right now either, typing this with my 1 year old son on my lap), but it'll start most of the time without needing to arc it.

Also, took this picture: https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...8&l=2abe3c544e

It says a new condenser, but not if it has an R134a dryer and whatnot, so not sure if I can add 134a to it. I have a couple more pictures I can upload of the connections by the dryer, if maybe those are different and someone could tell me if it's been converted or not.

If not, all the a/c and smog stuff is going bye-bye.

[gadget73]

the driers and all that are the same no matter what the magic gas inside is. I'm curious what the new condenser is about though. I've not seen that sticker before. Can you get any pics from in front of the rad support?


The charge ports are generally what will tell you. If its a threaded connection that looks like a big version of a tire connection, its R12. If its a smooth push-connect thing like a big version of an air compressor chuck, its R134a.


R12 type:



R134a type:


Those screw on over the stock R12 charge ports.

[88Vic]

So what all needs to be changed to convert to 134a? I've read the dryer needs to be changed, also read the compressor too. Not sure what really needs to be done, if I can just pump 134a into the stock system, if that'll work.

I also need to have a shop hook it to their fog machine or whatever, I know it leaks. It worked before I parked it then after a year, it's all empty.

[gadget73]

depends on the current state. if its totally empty, then new O rings, a new drier, and a system flush just to get rid of any garbage or old oil wouldn't be a bad idea. The seals should be replaced just because if its empty, it went somewhere. Drier needs replacing if the system has been empty since it will likely be loaded with moisture by now. Flush isn't absolutely needed, but you'll have no idea how much oil is in there, and an over-charge of oil will reduce system performance. The compressor doesn't need to be replaced unless it shows signs of having shat itself. At that point you should have an empty system with the common leak points all sealed up. Pull vacuum on it to verify it holds and to boil out any moisture, charge with the proper amount of oil and refrigerant, enjoy your day.

If it has a partial charge, just top it up.

if it has something wrong beyond that, whatever is bad has to be replaced and you go from there. Might be worth seeing if its got any pressure in there now. A bad switch will make the AC not run without any actual refrigeration system problems.

[88Vic]

I pulled the hard lines off the compressor to change the plugs, nothing came out. It sounds to me like it's more trouble than it's worth. It only gets hot enough here for maybe 3 months to use a/c, I can live without it and usually it's just me driving it to work.

I might use this opportunity to pull the belt off and delete the smog pump. I'm very tempted to take out all the a/c stuff too, just to clean up the engine bay. It's a big bay, but it's much more cramped than my Sierra is, make it harder to work on it. I can keep all of it intact, and if I sell it I can give it to the next owner and they can decide if they want to replace the parts as needed.