I obtained a voltmeter. The battery is 12.43 post to post. Bypassing the ignition circuit yields 12.23 at the relay output, and an immediate turn off of interior lights when repeated with the starter cable connected. It's near 0 resistance between the disconnected starter cable, probably through the starter, to the neg. battery post. After a Saturday rain out a mechanic promises a visit on Sunday. So I think removing the starter, I take it for bench testing, and he starts pulling the plugs, followed by sta-bil oil fogging the cylinders, a half rotation, then more fogging, and more rotation. If he brings a battery terminal tool and a piece of sandpaper, we clan clean electrical connections. A preliminary test with a small diameter improvised siphon tube indicates an empty gas tank, and there's insufficient sound from that area to confirm the few initial seconds of fuel pump operation upon ignition > run.
If the car isn't running by about noon Monday, it'll need to be towed off the property to avoid impoundment by the condo manager.
The only repair shop still in business that's worked on the car here in SC has relentlessly overcharged, such as 6 quart oil changes, sometimes after about 400 miles. So I expect high estimates from whoever gets a job on the car for the first time when a second opinion requires another towing charge.
Has anyone replaced a gas tank with too much rust and/or gas residue sludge to be cleaned for reinstallation?
If the car isn't running by about noon Monday, it'll need to be towed off the property to avoid impoundment by the condo manager.
The only repair shop still in business that's worked on the car here in SC has relentlessly overcharged, such as 6 quart oil changes, sometimes after about 400 miles. So I expect high estimates from whoever gets a job on the car for the first time when a second opinion requires another towing charge.
Has anyone replaced a gas tank with too much rust and/or gas residue sludge to be cleaned for reinstallation?
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