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Can't get the CTS out

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    Can't get the CTS out

    I had a friend's shop pull some codes on my Merc the other day. It was running extremely sluggish, surging after I let go of the acclerator, and I was getting very bad gas mileage (yes OD works fine). So far I had a problem with the EGR Valve stuck open and a bad coolant temperature sensor. I took apart the egr valve and cleaned it out with Carb Cleaner since it was dirty, but I don't know if that will solve the problem.

    The main problem is the coolant temperature sensor. It has the original brass one and its stripped badly (can't even get it off with a breaker bar). I know there is a tool set for dealing with stripped bolts, I just don't what it is called or where to find it (tried Sears with no luck). I ran it today without it, my car ran great except for the fact it had trouble idling when driving in a parking lot.

    Also, what is the correct size for the vacuum lines that run to the egr. I broke the plastic line for the EGR Valve trying to get the CTS out.
    Current rides - 1991 Ford Thunderbird 3.8 v6 (gas saver/DD) - New Heads/Headgaskets with ARP studs, Air Silencer Delete, 70mm MAF, Plasti-dipped Matte Black with a Silver Metalflake Overlay, Muffler Delete, some LED's, 30.233 MPG for high MPG average!
    2006 Jeep Wrangler 4WD (fun vehicle/backup DD) - 4.0/6spd - too many mods to list.

    Associated Panthers:
    Father's 1994 Ford Crown Victoria - Stock, 45,000 miles.
    Sold in 2007 - 1987 Mercury Grand Marquis LS "Grandpa Special" 2 door.
    http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2128327

    #2
    I use vise grips when all else fails. Might need a little heat on it to loosen it.

    Most chain autoparts stores have the hard plastic tubing like is originally on there. Just take a piece in and find a matching tube.
    Builder/Owner of Badass Panther Wagons

    Busy maintaining a fleet of Fords

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      #3
      For the vac lines - the outside diameter of the new ones should be slightly larger than the stock ones, pull the rubber connector off a broken line and you'll see why. When I redid the engine vac system of my car I used 3/16"O.D. lines, they are pretty hard to plug in the rubber connectors, but once in they give you no leaks whatsoever.

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