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oil leak pt.2 (lower intake manifold)

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    #46
    putting everything back in, im having concerns about da distributor/cap/rotor. i have an idea of where i took it off but if it starts actin up, this shop says theyll adjust my timing for $45 and advance it for $15. i have no timing light. how can i fix it or just take it to da shop?

    da spark plug wires to da cap were obviously disconnected now i dont remember how they go. any diagram or pictorial on how they go or the numbers on da cap for each wire? any help...?

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      #47
      Heres an easy way to ball park it to get it running again. Put the rotor on the distributor (leave the cap off) and try to get the rotor to point straight back 12 o'clock positon or 1 o'clock is fine too. Also make sure the wiring harness on the distributor is pointing towards the alt. That "should" get you close enough to get it running, you may have to have someone crank the car while you rotate the distributor around back and forth a lil bit to catch.

      You can get yourself a timing light pretty cheap (around $20) from harbor frieght or sears. That way you can set it yourself and have it if you ever need it again. I think $45 to set timing is a ripoff.

      2009 Ford F-350 6.4 powerstroke diesel. 1977 Ford F-150 built 300 six, 5 speed trans. 1976 MG MGB roadster, 359w, t5 5 speed. 1996 Kawasaki ninja ZX6R.
      My rod is glowing, my bead is clean, my middle name is acetylene

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        #48
        the firing order is 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8 in a counter clockwise rotation. Blazingmarauder had posed an awsome link that went into detail about it. I'll find it for ya.

        2009 Ford F-350 6.4 powerstroke diesel. 1977 Ford F-150 built 300 six, 5 speed trans. 1976 MG MGB roadster, 359w, t5 5 speed. 1996 Kawasaki ninja ZX6R.
        My rod is glowing, my bead is clean, my middle name is acetylene

        Comment


          #49


          Heres da link

          2009 Ford F-350 6.4 powerstroke diesel. 1977 Ford F-150 built 300 six, 5 speed trans. 1976 MG MGB roadster, 359w, t5 5 speed. 1996 Kawasaki ninja ZX6R.
          My rod is glowing, my bead is clean, my middle name is acetylene

          Comment


            #50
            Yeah, hell you can buy a timing light for what they want to set it. F that.
            86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
            5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

            91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

            1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

            Originally posted by phayzer5
            I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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              #51
              well guys, i put everything back on today. last thing to do is fill her up with oil, change da oil filter and mess around with the distributor. that was some good info on da link, thanx merc.

              how about sumthing like dat but for da spark plug wires? where each individual wire goes on each post on da cap. like i said i numbered everything but with all da oil everywhere i lost track of it.

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                #52
                That would be what the firing order is. #1 is marked on the cap, count from there with the firing order. Distributor turns counter-clockwise.Cylinder numbering and firing order are listed at that link.
                86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                Originally posted by phayzer5
                I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                Comment


                  #53
                  car is done, ready to turn on, but wont start. tweaking the distributor and i check under da car to see if anything is leakin and well guess wat. antifreeze leaking from da rear seal area. only thing i can guess is dat blue rubber P.O.S. shoulda just used a thick bead of silicon have to wait til this weekend to do it again, dont know if any coolant got into da engine damn im pist.....

                  Comment


                    #54
                    Originally posted by ltdcrwnvic
                    car is done, ready to turn on, but wont start. tweaking the distributor and i check under da car to see if anything is leakin and well guess wat. antifreeze leaking from da rear seal area. only thing i can guess is dat blue rubber P.O.S. shoulda just used a thick bead of silicon have to wait til this weekend to do it again, dont know if any coolant got into da engine damn im pist.....
                    That rear ledge seal only holds valley oil in, not coolant. Your side intake gasket shifted if you are leaking coolant from your intake.

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                      #55
                      Or the heater hose isn't tight on the pipe, or the hose for the EGR cooler is leaking.
                      86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                      5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                      91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                      1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                      Originally posted by phayzer5
                      I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                      Comment


                        #56
                        2 things come to mind... did you torque the lower manifold bolts properly(20-25ft lbs) and use the correct tightening sequence?
                        also did you install the manifold gaskets correctly on the cylinder head? the Fel-pro set is stamped with "head side" on the gasket. if you reverse them, they will leak around the water passages.
                        2003 Town Car Signature - 3.27 RAR, Dual exhaust and J-mod - SOLD 9/2011
                        89 Crown Victoria LX HPP -- SOLD 9/2010
                        88 Grand Marquis LS - The Original -- Totaled 5/2006


                        I rebuild AOD/AODE/4R70W/4R75E transmissions....Check out my Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/pages/North...48414635312478

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                          #57
                          walked to work, bout 30-45min walk, another 45mins back.
                          da lines on da egr arent it, they're completely dry dat was my first guess. second was da other end of one of those egr lines dat connect to da lower intake, no leak there. and finally da other guess was the other egr line going over to the water pump. no leak there. so merc is probably right, side gasket moved and is lettin da coolant out. im so bummed out, but oh well, ill give it another shot friday. workin again 2morow and thursday. thanx for all the help guys ill let u know when i get her up and running again.......MARK MY WORDS, IT WILL RUN AGAIN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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                            #58
                            i tightened everything pretty well, bolts nice and snug, da gaskets(felpros) were placed correctly. i did notice da 'head side' and i placed it like they're suppose to go so im guessin they shifted and now theyre lettin coolant out. i put them on dry like they're supposed to go
                            when i go back, should i take off da rubber rear and front seals and just use a bead of rtv? im guessin that might be another place for leakage since i dont like rubber seals too much

                            Comment


                              #59
                              It is possible the water passage area on the cylinder head(s) or on the intake manifold was not clean and the gasket didnt seal correctly. Once you tighten the gaskets you are NOT supposed to re-use them. $11 for the gasket set I would just replace it.

                              Keep in mind the Intake has a proper tightening sequence and the bolts must be torqued properly (20-25ft lbs) when doing the sequence.
                              2003 Town Car Signature - 3.27 RAR, Dual exhaust and J-mod - SOLD 9/2011
                              89 Crown Victoria LX HPP -- SOLD 9/2010
                              88 Grand Marquis LS - The Original -- Totaled 5/2006


                              I rebuild AOD/AODE/4R70W/4R75E transmissions....Check out my Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/pages/North...48414635312478

                              Comment


                                #60
                                Originally posted by ltdcrwnvic
                                should i take off da rubber rear and front seals and just use a bead of rtv? im guessin that might be another place for leakage since i dont like rubber seals too much

                                That wouldnt cause your coolant leak, if those were leaking you would be only leaking oil.

                                2009 Ford F-350 6.4 powerstroke diesel. 1977 Ford F-150 built 300 six, 5 speed trans. 1976 MG MGB roadster, 359w, t5 5 speed. 1996 Kawasaki ninja ZX6R.
                                My rod is glowing, my bead is clean, my middle name is acetylene

                                Comment

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