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    #16
    Originally posted by Pesty351 View Post
    Why do you need exhaust out the back for winter? Ive had dumps and sidepipes hook up to long tubes in northern Indiana with out any problems.
    CO....
    Idling in snow.... You may like to suck exhaust but I choose not to......

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      #17
      i used to own an air cooled Volkswagen. trust me, exhaust in the car sucks.
      86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
      5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

      91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

      1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

      Originally posted by phayzer5
      I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

      Comment


        #18
        Originally posted by Mercracer View Post
        Not too many people willing to spend $600 on headers for their Panther on this board....
        I'm one of those people. Hell, if I only have to spend 600, that's a steal!!
        1983 Grand Marquis 2Dr Sedan "Mercules"
        Tremec TKO conversion, hydraulic clutch, HURST equipped!

        Comment


          #19
          Originally posted by Grand_Marquis_GT View Post
          I'm one of those people. Hell, if I only have to spend 600, that's a steal!!
          Not too many people spending the money that you will be on a BB swap. You could pull 3 spark plugs and still make more power than most of the registered Panthers here will ever make.....

          Comment


            #20
            Originally posted by Grand_Marquis_GT View Post
            I'm one of those people. Hell, if I only have to spend 600, that's a steal!!
            I'd spend more than that for some big tube headers if I had to

            RIP Jason P Harril, we'll miss ya bro

            '80 Town Coupé
            '84 Towncar - Teh Cobra TC, 408w powered
            '16 Ram 1500 CC Outdoorsman, Hemi/3.92/8sp 4x4

            Comment


              #21
              Originally posted by Mercracer View Post
              That is fine for a summer hot rod, but a daily winter driver needs exhaust out the back as CO sucks........
              That is my personal preference and choice...... to each his own.....
              CO in the car does suck. We terminated the exhaust on my brother's '88 P72 right under the car (before the axle). He said he didn't smell it, but it was incredibly obvious; I just think he wanted to leave the exhaust that way. It had tailpipes now though.

              Pklus, uou need tailpipes to pass emissions here. They won't go under the car to put the hose on for the sniffer test.
              **2012 Ford Mustang Boss 302: 5.0/ 6 spd/ 3.73s, 20K Cruiser
              **2006 MGM,"Ultimate": 4.6/ 2.73/ Dark Tint, Magnaflows, 19s, 115K Daily Driver
              **2012 Harley Davidson Wide Glide (FXDWG):103/ Cobra Speedsters/ Cosmetics, 9K Poseur HD Rider
              **1976 Ford F-150 4WD: 360, 4 spd, 3.50s, factory A/C, 4" lift, Bilsteins, US Indy Mags, 35s Truck Duties

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                #22
                Even with tails, I smell exhaust when the POS isn't rolling. People can tell if I arrived by Panther, just by the aroma I bring into a room after driving it, LOL. Putting new cats on the car might help this. Also driving WOT everywhere couldn't hurt, either.

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                  #23
                  what's the big deal? mustang shorty headers and h and x pipes fit decent on a box.....did that long tubes and header glasspacks and dumps shit with my 73 cougar when i was in high school......i used to get pulled over alot and the car wouldnt pass inspection and it stank....then the damm starters used to burn out all the time from the heat of the long tubes and i would have to remove the header every time teh starter shit the bed.....try doing that in pep boys parking lot on a friday night lol.....oh and the damm header gaskets used to blow too.....both ends....header flanges and collector, and teh ground clearance really sucked.

                  ed do they make shorty headers for a 2v 351c fox swap that are affordable?

                  1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
                  2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
                  1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
                  1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
                  2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
                  1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)

                  please be patient, rebuilding an empire!

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                    #24
                    When I get my truck i'm just gonna cut off the muffler and dump the exhaust before the axle. Since it's a truck and a longbed (I haven't gotten it yet, but there's a very good chance I will), I don't think i'll get any exhaust in the cab.
                    88 Town Car (wrecked, for sale)
                    Walker OEM duals with muffler deletes

                    Comment


                      #25
                      Well guys, I've done alot of math and alot of calculations on this build and the primary sizing is undoubtedly the most important factor in any exhaust. One of the reasons behind the long tubes is that a 1 3/4" full length header will free a comparable amount of top-end horsepower to a 1 3/4" shortie for me, but will maintain an exhaust velocity that won't drastically affect my torque numbers. I dont have any problem losing 5 lb/ft of torque to gain 20hp on the top end, I just dont want to lose 15 lb/ft of torque to gain 10-12 hp. This build is concerned with maximum torque and some degree of driveability, and is thus far working very well. Trust me, I have this down to the coefficient of drag, and I promise to contribute a detailed write-up and fact sheet on my work when I finish. I don't want anyone to think I'm just collecting information from the community for my own personal good and don't plan to give back. As far as what I have going on here.... :heyhey: :heyhey: you'll have to clench your cheeks a little while longer. You'll be shitting your pants in late spring, guaranteed lol.

                      Comment


                        #26
                        I forgot to mention, THANK YOU PIRATE. I talked to Ford Powertrain Applications, and they proved to be extremely knowledgable and helpful on the subject. I also learned that the standard Ford bolt pattern we're working with in a 1 5/8" stepped to 1 7/8" primary has shown a gain of just shy of 14ft/lbs of torque and ABSOLUTELY NO LOSS in horsepower to 7000 rpm over a straight 1 3/4" primary. They said KeithCraft has ordered and tested headers on that exact principal and proved it while tuning for 60ft times and (I hate to mention the word) NASCAR. I should have just bought AFR 205's, everything gets easier when the bolt pattern changes. DAMNIT!

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                          #27
                          This is going to be an interesting build....
                          1983 Grand Marquis 2Dr Sedan "Mercules"
                          Tremec TKO conversion, hydraulic clutch, HURST equipped!

                          Comment


                            #28
                            well, if this phantom build involves a 351 and 1-3/4" or larger primary longtubes, pm the info so I can order me a set. I can use a set now, and especially if i ever get aorund to a nitrous kit

                            RIP Jason P Harril, we'll miss ya bro

                            '80 Town Coupé
                            '84 Towncar - Teh Cobra TC, 408w powered
                            '16 Ram 1500 CC Outdoorsman, Hemi/3.92/8sp 4x4

                            Comment


                              #29
                              Originally posted by phayzer5 View Post
                              well, if this phantom build involves a 351 and 1-3/4" or larger primary longtubes, pm the info so I can order me a set. I can use a set now, and especially if i ever get aorund to a nitrous kit
                              +1 let me know where you get these from, I would like a set for my car, unfortunetly I need a transmission and my tuition paid first lol.

                              2009 Ford F-350 6.4 powerstroke diesel. 1977 Ford F-150 built 300 six, 5 speed trans. 1976 MG MGB roadster, 359w, t5 5 speed. 1996 Kawasaki ninja ZX6R.
                              My rod is glowing, my bead is clean, my middle name is acetylene

                              Comment


                                #30
                                Well, sadly, its looking like Ill have to resort to shortys. MAC or JBA are my obvious preferences. Anyone running 1 3/4" shortys from either? I know BBK is rather popular for our cars as well, but I'd like to stay away from them. Did I hear something about mid-lengths fitting as well? 1 3/4'' mid-lengths would be much sexier.

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