I can definitely appreciate someone willing to do it themselves. I just don't have any advice on how to start and what to get. Crate engine seemed like the easy solution.
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~David~
My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz
Originally posted by ootdega
My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."
Originally posted by DerekTheGreat
But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck
Originally posted by gadget73
my car starts and it has AC. Yours doesn't start and it has no AC. Seems obvious to me.
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"In science it is either physics or stamp collecting." - Ernest Rutherford
- Oct 2009
- 2878
- Keene NH
- Send PM
Originally posted by 87gtVIC View PostI can definitely appreciate someone willing to do it themselves. I just don't have any advice on how to start and what to get. Crate engine seemed like the easy solution."Shakedown"- 1991 Grand Marquis GS Dual exhaust, Magnaflow xl turbos, Rear anti sway bar, Outlaw 1 wheels, 43k miles
1985 GMC 1500
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i would use 3.73's........towny moved well with the lopo and 3.73's
1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)
please be patient, rebuilding an empire!
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5-7k......you can build one heck of a motor
heres what i have in the towny
53,000 mile ho shortblock from a 91 mustang convertible (guy on corral) 150
thumper ported e7 heads 600 (up to 700 now since 2004)
ported upper and lower ho intakes (guy on corral) 100
motorsport 1.7 roller rockers (guy on corral) 75
hardened pushrods (ebay) 40
HO cam 1987 mustang (guy on corral) 40
timing set 30
gaskets 150 (est been so long lol)
headers hedman (summit dont reccomend the brand) 160
1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)
please be patient, rebuilding an empire!
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"In science it is either physics or stamp collecting." - Ernest Rutherford
- Oct 2009
- 2878
- Keene NH
- Send PM
Originally posted by The Auntie Christ View PostIf you have that kind of money, buy someone else's completed car."Shakedown"- 1991 Grand Marquis GS Dual exhaust, Magnaflow xl turbos, Rear anti sway bar, Outlaw 1 wheels, 43k miles
1985 GMC 1500
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Originally posted by 91grandmarquis View PostAgain thats not the point, I want to do the work, not just buy someone elses car done how they wanted it.
Problem Solved.
OR....
Look into a low-mile Explorer/Mountaineer GT40P motor, and switch to a better set of valvesprings, along with roller rockers. This might also be time to see if you can be the first schmoe here to get a set of long-tube headers into your car....but remember, they have to fit around the AOD case, AND fit around the plug location of the P heads. I'm wondering if the MAC set for the 94-95 Mustang with the AODE might work....or the Fox-body set for the AOD....they've been shown to fit around the P spark plug location with a little massaging.Last edited by Guest; 04-13-2010, 12:52 PM.
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"In science it is either physics or stamp collecting." - Ernest Rutherford
- Oct 2009
- 2878
- Keene NH
- Send PM
Believe me I gotchya, but my car is too nice as is to be a DD in NH. It already needs rear quarter repair because the paint is flaking. Im taking care of that this summer. Then its going up. My daily driver has to be something I have no interest in modifying, thus why I will probably get a ford contour or some cheap T bird from the 80s that is already a bit rusty for about 500 dollars, then rivet some sheet metal on, run it for 3 winters into the ground, then rinse and repeat. Plus for the next 4 years I won't need a car because college campus is literally a block away from my house and work is about a half a mile. So its not necessary.
I was looking at blocks all web design class. Aluminum ones are nice, but pricey and what is the actual gain besides being light weight? Anyway I found some good deals on craigslist. My question is it cheaper to buy a block new for about $590 or to buy a used 302 and have it machined? The used prices Ive seen rarely drop below $200. Also this raises the question of using a 302 or a 351. I want to do this right and only once. The cheapest new 351w Ive found is about $1200 not to bad if I saved up for a year, but Im thinking that it would definitely be easier to yank one from a vehicle at the JY for about $300 and a day of work and have it machined. Any thoughts on this?"Shakedown"- 1991 Grand Marquis GS Dual exhaust, Magnaflow xl turbos, Rear anti sway bar, Outlaw 1 wheels, 43k miles
1985 GMC 1500
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