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302 carb..help me out

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    #31
    Summit racing has one Holley 12-803BP $70, but there may be others out there.

    2011 Grand Marquis LS Ultimate Edition
    Dual Exhaust w/ AP XLerator mufflers and 3 1/2" tips, Eibach 1" rear sway bar, Pioneer Head unit and speakers, 17X8 Drag DR-72 wheels

    RIP 1984 2Dr Crown Vic "The Millennium Falcon"
    Carbed 5.0 HO w/nitrous , Performer RPM intake, GT40P heads, E303 cam, FRP Shorties, FRP 9mm plug wires, Off-Road H-pipe, Magnaflow round mufflers, 2000 rpm stall
    NA-15.78@91.21, 80hp shot-14.48@96.21

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      #32
      I noticed from your picks that you reinstalled the TFI distributor, will this cause an issue since a signal is no longer coming from the TPS to tell the computer to advance or retard the timing? I plan on using a vacuum advance distributor (duraspark II) to avoid any electronic issues caused by retaining the EEC-IV ignition components.

      2011 Grand Marquis LS Ultimate Edition
      Dual Exhaust w/ AP XLerator mufflers and 3 1/2" tips, Eibach 1" rear sway bar, Pioneer Head unit and speakers, 17X8 Drag DR-72 wheels

      RIP 1984 2Dr Crown Vic "The Millennium Falcon"
      Carbed 5.0 HO w/nitrous , Performer RPM intake, GT40P heads, E303 cam, FRP Shorties, FRP 9mm plug wires, Off-Road H-pipe, Magnaflow round mufflers, 2000 rpm stall
      NA-15.78@91.21, 80hp shot-14.48@96.21

      Comment


        #33
        Originally posted by Smokestacklightnin View Post
        I noticed from your picks that you reinstalled the TFI distributor, will this cause an issue since a signal is no longer coming from the TPS to tell the computer to advance or retard the timing? I plan on using a vacuum advance distributor (duraspark II) to avoid any electronic issues caused by retaining the EEC-IV ignition components.
        TPS-huh? Oh, right. Nothing wrong with TFI, but I guess the main issue with a non-Duraspark distributor is the lack of any sort of mechanical advance provisions .... so no dynamic advance unless, as you point out, the computey doohickey dials some in electrically. So you're basically running with the timing locked out, i.e. initial timing = total timing. I've read that some people actually prefer locked-out timing. Don't remember exactly what was said offhand, but I think part of the motivation was that it simplifies tuning because there's no timing curve to worry about - just set the appropriate total timing and go.



        Re the flooding, I imagine Edelbrock would say that's all but guaranteed to happen with the fuel pressure at 15 psi. I second the question of making sure of exactly which bypass regulator you're using - very important that it's designed to function correctly at about 5 psi.
        2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

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