what was issue with throttle body spacer & egr with HO?

[cld783]

and if it does leak you just bypass the damn thing.

[87_crown_vic]

i bypass the stupid cooler lines on the EGR spacer... i hate them lines since at any point can cause internal coolant leak having it sucked in the engine and can be confused as a head gasket

[Crownvicman289]

I meant leaking exhaust gasses into the intake tract even when the EGR valve is closed, that's all I care about. It's pretty thin, but if I ever got a Lightning spacer this one would mate up with an HO intake nicely. I never installed the coolant lines to the thing, the only time exhaust is flowing in there is when EGT's are low and your foot's not in it anyway.

[gadget73]

if you take a stock egr spacer, bore it, and then pack the cavity where the cooler lines went with jb weld, then file it flat it might do the job to seal things up in an acceptable manner. Or maybe it won't. Iunno.


I think the way the Lightning stuff sits from the factory, the throttle cables bolt up to the Mustang-type ears. The Panther-compatible openings are used for smog control solenoids or something.

Other options do involve a Mustang spacer and longer cables from a Fox body car or something, and simply loop the cables around from the front. Doesn't look as good, but sometimes go is more important than show.

[86VickyLX]

and if it does leak you just bypass the damn thing.

Leak air herp derp

[cld783]

Leak air herp derp

[86VickyLX]

luv you no homo

[BerniniCaCO3]

OK, fast approaching the point where I really need to take care of this, Friday most likely

Because I can't afford ($60+$18 gasoline...) and even more importantly can't wait a week on the machinist (+90 minutes driving/meeting, +1.5weeks waiting)
I'll go ahead and make a bracket to add to the HO intake. And hey, if I do end up getting an explorer intake, I can bore out the HO one, which i can't do to the stock lowpo

Do you know what the tolerances are for the 3 cables that attach to the bracket that bolts to the back of the egr spacer? I.e., if I'm say 1/8" off with my holes, I won't trigger carmaggedon?

Secondly: I've got two options with the backwards bracket. The spring-loaded lever that is peened to the pin that operates the throttle plate inside the throttle body: I can
a) leave the levers on and drill two new holes in the HO throttle body's lever, one for the bushing, one for the little post, and then cut off (from the back) and move the post over. This leaves the joint holding the leaver to the throttle plate virgin, but means trying to accurately place new holes...
b) grind off the peened-over retaining metal and swap my lowpo lever onto the HO intake.

b) is more elegant, what i want to know: is the pin that goes through the throttle plate and which is stuck to the lever also mild steel, such that a 3-second sputter of the mig welder will tack the lowpo lever onto the HO intake nicely and reliably?
Or is it something hardened and slightly exotic, and a mild steel tack weld might fail, leaving the lever lying on the valve covers and the throttle plate flopping free?

thanks for the advice!

[86VickyLX]

b) is more elegant, what i want to know: is the pin that goes through the throttle plate and which is stuck to the lever also mild steel, such that a 3-second sputter of the mig welder will tack the lowpo lever onto the HO intake nicely and reliably?
Or is it something hardened and slightly exotic, and a mild steel tack weld might fail, leaving the lever lying on the valve covers and the throttle plate flopping free?

You can do that. But be careful, since you're welding around aluminum and plastic bushings, and getting it even a little too hot, and you've melted the bushings and screwed yourself.

If you have access to a drill press, here's what I suggest you do. Remove the stock lever, and remove the HO lever. Do that, by grinding the bottom flat. With a small hammer, work off the lever. Be careful with the LOPO one since that's the one you're using. Get a small bolt a washer big enough to cover the rod and whatnot, a drill bit, and a tap to go along with it. I think I used an M8 bolt. I used red locktite on the bolt to make sure that it's not coming out.

[BerniniCaCO3]

OK, so you drilled and tapped out the center of the pin/rod and then put in a small retaining bolt?
Since the bolt is a circle, potentially it can still turn-- but that has not happened for you?

[86VickyLX]

You can do that. But be careful, since you're welding around aluminum and plastic bushings, and getting it even a little too hot, and you've melted the bushings and screwed yourself.

If you have access to a drill press, here's what I suggest you do. Remove the stock lever, and remove the HO lever. Do that, by grinding the bottom flat. With a small hammer, work off the lever. Be careful with the LOPO one since that's the one you're using. Get a small bolt a washer big enough to cover the rod and whatnot, a drill bit, and a tap to go along with it. I think I used an M8 bolt. I used red locktite on the bolt to make sure that it's not coming out.

[87gtVIC]

I had Lincolnmania do mine. Excellent work and not once had I had a problem with it installed. He tacked it on there for me.

[BerniniCaCO3]

no no no-- I read about the loctite! But for example, you can clamp down on your wheel bearings with a lot of force (not good of course), and they'll still spin. There's no geometric grip, if you will, just the friction between the underside of the screw head and the lever, loctite or no loctite, which was why I was concerned.

But if it hasn't given any issues, and hasn't turned, maybe I'll do the set screw

Or tack weld it...

still haven't decided

Or a set screw, and then a 1second tack weld to stick the screw head to the lever to be sure.

[86VickyLX]

no no no-- I read about the loctite! But for example, you can clamp down on your wheel bearings with a lot of force (not good of course), and they'll still spin. There's no geometric grip, if you will, just the friction between the underside of the screw head and the lever, loctite or no loctite, which was why I was concerned.

But if it hasn't given any issues, and hasn't turned, maybe I'll do the set screw

Or tack weld it...

still haven't decided

Or a set screw, and then a 1second tack weld to stick the screw head to the lever to be sure.

If you've ever had the TPS off of your throttle body, it's the same deal. Picture that but on the bottom. Just grind the bottom of it down so it's flush with the lever.