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    Efficiency Build...

    So I want a more fuel efficient engine, a couple more MPG would be nice. I was wondering if GT-40 heads and a smaller (500CFM) 4 barrel carb might help, as well as make some more power. I have a 2.5" headers to tails exhaust (with a 2.25" h-pipe). Has anyone tried this combo on a 351, or know of any other mods I can do? I get around 10MPG city and 18MPG highway. I'm putting in a 3.27 rear to replace my 2.73, so I should get better in city, but in the long term a more efficient engine would be nice.
    -Phil

    sigpic

    +1982 Ford LTD-S Police Car. Built 351w, Trickflow 11R 190 Heads, Holley Sniper EFI, RPM Intake+ Hyperspark dizzy, WR-AOD, Full exhaust headers to tails. 3.27 Trac-Lok Rear. Aluminum Police Driveshaft. Speedway Springs+Bilstein Shocks, Intermediate Brakes, HPP Steering Box.

    +2003 Acura CL Type S 6-speed

    #2
    351Ws realy need even on a mild build for economy smaller versions of aftermarket aluminum heads ported GT40s might do alright. All production ford SB heads were realy designed for 260, 289, 302 351cubes are a bit much for them.
    Scars are tatoos of the fearless

    Comment


      #3
      they'd still have to be better than the stock castings though. 351's in stock form are pretty starved though. AFR165's might do you well.
      86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
      5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

      91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

      1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

      Originally posted by phayzer5
      I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

      Comment


        #4
        I think that's a good start. Also look into aeromods. The ones I have planned so far are the airdam from a 90s Chevy 1500 truck, and something to bridge between the bottom of the trunk and the rear bumper so it doesn't catch air.

        Roller cam and rockers should be worth something, but you'll have to drive a lot to make your money back through gas savings. Of course any weight reduction will help.

        Don't just slap a carb on, there's a definite science and art to getting a holley carb tuned, and it'll make a big difference in fuel economy.

        Also consider a block heater, even for not-so-cold days. I've heard of people being able to avoid significant warm-up times and using the choke in the summer by using a block heater.
        Last edited by johnunit; 06-02-2014, 10:12 PM.

        85 4 door 351 Civi Crown Victoria - Summer daily driver, sleeper in the making, and wildly inappropriate autocross machine
        160KMs 600cfm holley, shorty headers, 2.5" catted exhaust, 255/295 tires, cop shocks, cop swaybars, underdrive pulley, 2.73L gears.
        waiting for install: 3.27's, Poly bushings, boxed rear arms, 2500 stall converter, ported e7's, etc

        06 Mazda 3 hatch 2.3L 5AT (winter beater that cost more than my summer car)

        Comment


          #5
          I feel semi-confident about carb tuning, so that shouldn't be a problem. I was planning on doing what Dave did with the aero under shield for the front, under the engine. I have the police "air dam" or whatever you would call it. I would not be opposed to porting the heads and port matching the intake. Not sure how much of an impact the aluminum driveshaft will have, but i suspect it will help a little with city driving.

          Block heater would be nice, I don't know if i would have patience to use it enough though, our old turbo-diesel mercedes has one, and has been used in sub-freezing temps, but i personally never used it.
          -Phil

          sigpic

          +1982 Ford LTD-S Police Car. Built 351w, Trickflow 11R 190 Heads, Holley Sniper EFI, RPM Intake+ Hyperspark dizzy, WR-AOD, Full exhaust headers to tails. 3.27 Trac-Lok Rear. Aluminum Police Driveshaft. Speedway Springs+Bilstein Shocks, Intermediate Brakes, HPP Steering Box.

          +2003 Acura CL Type S 6-speed

          Comment


            #6
            X2 on the block heater. Both of my winter cars have them. I plug them in when it gets around 20 degrees. It makes a ton of difference. Easier starting and warm heat right away.

            Comment


              #7
              Not really necessary if you aren't driving it in the winter, which you ought not be if you value your quarter panels. Thats what aeros and other disposable vehicles are for
              86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
              5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

              91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

              1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

              Originally posted by phayzer5
              I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

              Comment


                #8
                So true, salt goes on the roads, car goes in the garage.

                It's always 20 degrees in Maine anyway :P

                Originally posted by gadget73 View Post
                Not really necessary if you aren't driving it in the winter, which you ought not be if you value your quarter panels. Thats what aeros and other disposable vehicles are for
                -Phil

                sigpic

                +1982 Ford LTD-S Police Car. Built 351w, Trickflow 11R 190 Heads, Holley Sniper EFI, RPM Intake+ Hyperspark dizzy, WR-AOD, Full exhaust headers to tails. 3.27 Trac-Lok Rear. Aluminum Police Driveshaft. Speedway Springs+Bilstein Shocks, Intermediate Brakes, HPP Steering Box.

                +2003 Acura CL Type S 6-speed

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by gadget73 View Post
                  Not really necessary if you aren't driving it in the winter, which you ought not be if you value your quarter panels. Thats what aeros and other disposable vehicles are for
                  I've still see it help in cars like a carbed small block where warming the oil/coolant with a little electricity is way, way more efficient than doing it by running the engine. Even on fairly warm days.

                  85 4 door 351 Civi Crown Victoria - Summer daily driver, sleeper in the making, and wildly inappropriate autocross machine
                  160KMs 600cfm holley, shorty headers, 2.5" catted exhaust, 255/295 tires, cop shocks, cop swaybars, underdrive pulley, 2.73L gears.
                  waiting for install: 3.27's, Poly bushings, boxed rear arms, 2500 stall converter, ported e7's, etc

                  06 Mazda 3 hatch 2.3L 5AT (winter beater that cost more than my summer car)

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by gadget73 View Post
                    Thats what aeros and other disposable vehicles are for
                    That's why I bought an Aero for a winter beater.

                    It has grown on me though, in the almost 3 years of driving it.
                    1990 MGM: $50 E7 heads, HO cam, Holley SysteMAX lower intake, HO upper intake with an Explorer TB. LSC ECM. Lincoln logs into stock dual exhaust. K&N drop in air filter. Wide ratio AOD, 2400 converter with a 3.08 one tire fire out back. Car is less slow now. Then there's the '92 Beater. Dual 2.25" exhaust with shiny tips. Rumbles nice. Super slow. Burns oil too.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Compression and cam. I got 19mpg avg corrected out of an 82 3/4 ton gmc with 3.73's and 31's in highshcool with a teenage leadfoot. 305 heads on a 350 and a 204/214 cam. Eddy intake, q-jet, iron manifolds. Look for smaller cc heads, keep the port velocity up, and use a mild cam that doesn't thump. As much ignition advance as it'll tolerate without pinging too..
                      Last edited by crazyman; 06-05-2014, 12:23 AM.
                      Maintaining Grandma's 84 CFI GM for her

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by crazyman View Post
                        Compression and cam. I got 19mpg avg corrected out of an 82 3/4 ton gmc with 3.73's and 31's in highshcool with a teenage leadfoot. 305 heads on a 350 and a 204/214 cam. Eddy intake, q-jet, iron manifolds. Look for smaller cc heads, keep the port velocity up, and use a mild cam that doesn't thump. As much ignition advance as it'll tolerate without pinging too..
                        All factory SBF heads are too small for best efficeny from a 351W as the port velosty is already to high and not enough air flow for 350 cubes most efficent cylinder filling.

                        If you were to compair port size flow of a SBC head to a SBF the closest match would be 351C 2V heads.

                        My F150 4wd w/3000 stall 400 pocket ported C 2V heads,headers, highway towing cam 230ish at .050 duration hits 13 MPG Highway. 4:11 gears 33" tires. At highway speeds its slippage due to the Stall is 25%, with a tight converter it would be close to 18 to 20 MPG.
                        Scars are tatoos of the fearless

                        Comment

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