Ok its been quite a while but the 347 - t5 swap is making progress!!!

[87gtVIC]

I seen that and figured he'd want to pop air conditioning on in the future. But if you don't please do take it off. It's silly.

[Nick52284]

i used the bottom one, the first hole i made was on a curved part on the other side, would have made it too difficult to drill and keep the tube straight, and yes i plan on putting a/c back in it so i wanted to make sure everything was bolted on as if there was a compressor there, i'm having an issue with clearance, i was hoping to find an a/c compressor that has a slightly smaller body or i may have to swap the valve covers if i can find some that are just a little shorter, i need about 1/8-1/4 inch of room to get a compressor bolted back in

[87gtVIC]

So the stock ac compressor is making contact with your valve covers? Maybe you can bring the cover in question to a shop and weld in a concave patch in the offending area?

Nice work so far!

[Nick52284]

yea the compressor hits the valve cover before the holes line up, i checked it again yesterday its actually only about 1/8 inch of room that i need, i'm thinking about maybe just dremeling out the bolt holes a bit to get everything to line up, none of the brackets are threaded anyway, all the threads are in the compressor, i'm gonna wait till i get the engine in and running before i spend money on the a/c system though, i do have a machine shop available to me, i can ask what they would charge to shave the valve cover in that corner. if its not much i'd rather go that route, thanks! i'm really hoping to get this thing running soon!

[Nick52284]

i got a question for you fella's, what should i do with the extra port on the t-stat housing now that i don't have that funky pipe that goes to the intake manifold and heater core? should i just "T" it in with the top port on the water pump then run it to the core or just cap it off?

[gadget73]

The bypass hose on the thermostat housing needs to be there. Its not related to the heater system. That second port on the water pump is what goes to the heater core, and it would have had the other end of the line as the fitting on the passenger front corner of the intake.

I'd just run bulk hose from the second water pump port to the heater core, and run more of the same from the heater core back to the fitting on the intake. Install the stock L hose from the water pump to thermostat and call it square. Make sure there is a restrictor on the heater core hose or you're liable to blow it up. Flow is actually from intake to core, and then from core to water pump. Put the restrictor on the intake side of the core.

[Nick52284]

thanks for the input, the only thing i'm worried about is the spacing between where the hole is in the intake, i'm not sure i can get a fitting in there, there's not a whole lot of room between the hole and the distributor. there is a plugged port on the t-stat housing on the rad side of the t-stat, can i use that port?

[Nick52284]

also, what do you mean by restrictor? i tried to fit the factory piping on there but the edelbrock intake is taller, not enough room to thread it in and put the dizzy back

[Grand Marquis GT]

http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forum.../topics/266439

[Bobcat]

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Ford-Heater-C...-/350478518357

Should probably get one of those myself... Eh.. Priorities..

I'll probably end up learning the hard way..


I supposed it's only a matter of time, seeing how I drive.

[gadget73]

My restrictor is a flat washer that happens to be the same size OD as the inlet pipe on the heater core. Nothing special. I have to throw in an order with LMR or something though, so maybe I'll buy the right part.

As someone who has done a couple heater cores, trust me when I say it sucks. I blew one up on my own car racing someone, and I was with Scott when we exploded the core in Natehawk's car about an hour after getting his 351w swap going. It blew up basically as soon as we got out of the driveway and wound it up enough to shift to second gear. Having that cloud of stink come out of the dash and completely block the windshield is also not real fun.

The fitting on top of the thermostat housing would be for a temperature sending unit or a thermostatic vacuum control valve, probably 3/8 or 1/4 NPT . It also needs to be on the other side of the thermostat or you'll have to wait quite some time for heat in the winter. The coolant flow port for the heater core is likely 1/2" NPT. The hole should be well away from the distributor, over towards the passenger side. The hole on the driver's side is for the temperature gauge sending unit. Unless of course your intake is just missing a coolant fitting.

[Nick52284]

my intake is an edelbrock airgap, i put the sending unit on the drivers side port, the passenger side port is still open, the factory pipe does thread in like factory but with with the difference in intake height i can't get the dizzy to seat, it bottoms out on the coolant pipe, i'm gonna run to home cheapo or blowes and see if i can find something with the same threads and a barbed fitting so i can run the hose from the intake to the core, i already installed the short "L" hose from the pump to the t-stat housing. its getting there, just a lot of little things to wrap up, i pretty much have the fuel system planned and figured out, i know there is a lot of wiring i'm gonna have to play with. i plan on basically running all my own wiring to keep things simple, direct wiring to eliminate guesswork since i removed all of the factory engine harness.

i really appreciate all the help i'm getting here, i almost gave up on this project! but you guys give me the know how to keep goin!

Nick

[Nick52284]

i'm thinking something like this should work for me

[gadget73]

That ought to do it. Worst case, fit a Duraspark distributor and can the Chevy stuff.

[Nick52284]

a run to home cheapo yielded this adapter setup, looks like its gonna work for me, just enough clearance so the dizzy drops in and has room to turn hopefully enough to play with timing!