New to me 351W build idea?

[pantera77]

If your goal is only 230hp I don't know why a 351 is even being considered.

[gadget73]

I prefer to mill 1.275" off the deck height. Valleys are weak enough on Windsors.

you know, I wonder if that wouldn't be a cheap way to get a stronger 302 block. Might involve more fuckery than its worth though, and you may still end up with a weaker block than aftermarket for not much less cost.

Besides, if you've got a 351 block, I don't know why you'd want to go for smaller displacement.

[Rassel90]

ok thanks for the advice, and im sorry about the typing. I decided on a 351w because i wanted to be able to take the current 302w out to rebuild to better for the cars need and look like to have 230hp 350tq at the same time being it is a boat not a race car. Was told the 351w made 230hp so my bad should of looked it up first but i figured that give me a ruff feeling of how much hp i wanna put into the 302w kinda. and i would have a 351w ready for a transplant into something smaller lighter to compete with me buddy 74 Chevy Monza that is gettin a 355 crate with th400 and 2800 lbs. My Marquis cant keep up with out major hp and i dont want that for it. Im all down for EFI but would have to find a maf for my tuner doesnt know SD so unless i can learn how to do it which probley aint a small fleet. but i would also need to know if the stock wiring harress has to be replaced. How do i get the aod kick down throttle to hook up which ecu to grab. no way am i gonna find a lighting motor in any shape where i am from and junk yards want a lot for explore motors. And like i said i got all winter to do this i have a place in side to work on it when ready and all that. I also dont mind cutting a hole in the hood i have a extra that is being use to make a CAD scan for a carbon fiber replacement to help give it better weight loss but thats another thread for next summer.

[killgore]

If you have the money to have a hood 3d scanned and molded into carbon fiber, you have ore than enough money to get a crate 331 or 347 and send everything to a shop to be assembled.

While this is aircraft grade carbon fiber, my friend makes 17 an hour with a tech certificate just making molds. And I'm still in college doing the study stuff.

[88Vic]

I think chokes are for pussies but then again pussies aren't two footing their automatics when it's cold outside and they're running late.

I used to do that with my old C10. It was an Edelbrock carb with an electric choke kit, but the wiring was so fucked that it didn't work. Usually I would start it up, barely hold the throttle open for a minute then let it warm up for another 5 minutes or so, until the temp gauge started to move, if I had time. The neighbors hated me, doing that at 4:30am in a truck with a 290hp 350 that had LT headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, no cats and Flowtech Redhot glasspacks, so it made some noise.

I miss that truck, if I could get it back I'd put a TBI unit on it with 454 injectors. The power loss would be worth the convenience.

[Rassel90]

Well a guy that stayed at my house for the sturgis who has all the equipment he own a business making carbon fiber bike part and he said he cut me a really good deal so its only costing me a 1000 to do it. Plus i rather build a motor by hand and pick out how im gonna want it to run not just in hp and tq but how it makes the power thought the power curve and where it makes power

[JeffBoudah]

you know, I wonder if that wouldn't be a cheap way to get a stronger 302 block.

No, you'd mill right into the cylinder water jackets, there's maybe 1" of material up top there? On roller block castings you need to use sealant on the lower rows of bolts/studs, they'd be blind if there was enough material. Find me a junk block and i'll bring it to work and mill it for shits and giggles. lol

[killgore]

$1000 to lose 50 lbs...not worth it. Can pick up much better times for less money

[Rassel90]

losing the weight is to help with weight distribution which improves handling plus the hood will have a downwards facing scoop to let air from the radiator flow out the hood increasing aero which in turn offers better cooling and and pushes down on the front end keeping the engine at a lower center of gravity mostly when racing up the canyon. Where half of my driving is uphill and the other half is downhill there is more to driving then just straight lines

[His Royal Ghostliness]

losing the weight is to help with weight distribution which improves handling plus the hood will have a downwards facing scoop to let air from the radiator flow out the hood increasing aero which in turn offers better cooling and and pushes down on the front end keeping the engine at a lower center of gravity mostly when racing up the canyon. Where half of my driving is uphill and the other half is downhill there is more to driving then just straight lines

Who's feeding you this bull? Not talking about the better heat evac for improved cooling, that's legit. The part about that airflow pushing on the car and keeping the engine closer to the ground - their failure to realize the kind of thrust you need to compress the suspension even an inch is nothing short of epic!!!

In any case, if you got $1k to burn on a borderline useless hood, you can afford the EFI intakes. You don't have to get one with 8 individual runners between the upper and the lower, they make lowers that look like they can run a carb but are also injectors and fuel rail compatible. Or if you want a carb get yourself some real intake and a real carb, there are plenty to choose from and they all get the job done well if you're willing to put the effort into learning about them. Oh, and if you go carb, go with a manual choke - fawk that automatic BS that almost never opens as fast or as slow as it needs to for the weather conditions that day.

[DerekTheGreat]

I used to do that with my old C10. It was an Edelbrock carb with an electric choke kit, but the wiring was so fucked that it didn't work. Usually I would start it up, barely hold the throttle open for a minute then let it warm up for another 5 minutes or so, until the temp gauge started to move, if I had time. The neighbors hated me, doing that at 4:30am in a truck with a 290hp 350 that had LT headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, no cats and Flowtech Redhot glasspacks, so it made some noise.

I miss that truck, if I could get it back I'd put a TBI unit on it with 454 injectors. The power loss would be worth the convenience.

That's like my Plymouth. It's cammed with duals and holding the rpms to a point where it doesn't fall out when cold means it's louder than every econobox on the block.

...Oh, and if you go carb, go with a manual choke - fawk that automatic BS that almost never opens as fast or as slow as it needs to for the weather conditions that day.

This is pretty much why my carb is choke free.

[sly]

+1 the hood will work for cooling, but the "added downforce" may be on the order of 20 pounds at most when under 100 mph. Unless you angle the radiator and do lots of fab work to get that scoop all the way down to the bottom of the radiator like on a Ford GT, you're not really going to gain much in down force if any. You will definitely not lower your center of gravity. Shorter/stiffer springs would help more in that regard.

[turbo2256b]

Who's feeding you this bull? Not talking about the better heat evac for improved cooling, that's legit. The part about that airflow pushing on the car and keeping the engine closer to the ground - their failure to realize the kind of thrust you need to compress the suspension even an inch is nothing short of epic!!!

The way I set up my 69 Shelby mustang around 80 to 90 MPH the car would start settling toward the ground compressing the suspension about an inch by 100 MPH. Quite the opposite of my friends 72ish Vett which would rise off the ground as speed increased.

As for venting air out the hood from the back of he radiator. 10% cooling of the engine is from the air entering the front of the car and blowing around the engine. 50% cooling by oil and 40% coolant. Removing too much of that 10% can cause issues.

[killgore]

If you're wanting to race up a canyon you're looking in the wrong cars. Also I think aluminum heads on a 302 shave about 50 lbs and can be had for about 1000 assembled. So not only would you be adding power, you'd have a lighter car in the same region as the hood.

Anyways, you'd need handling parts well before you need weight reduction that extreme. If you want the only carbon fibre hood in the panther community, go for it I guess. But you could make a 'glass one yourself and still have money for aluminum heads.

By the way...has anyone made fiberglass hoods for boxes?

[Rassel90]

i plan on fabbing the radiator to be angled. i miss spoke about the down force what is happening when racing uphill the front end has uplift causing huge understeer so by moving the air thought the hood it will displace this uplift so the car is more fully compressed and lower the to ground. and that happen with the 1 inch rear sway bar with poly bushing and the front unhooked.
I use the panther for canyons because of the wheel base. It makes the driving more difficult forcing you to take better lines and force you ability to improve. Plus in a canyon it shows the cars weakness very quickly and i love making cars better.
I rather not have to deal with aluminum for my rally truck eats it aluminum head for breakfast and it run cooler then my Marquis.
I really dont know much about fiberglass or know anybody who makes fiberglass i mean if i can find a fiberglass hood or know how i would go with glass cheaper is better in this case.
as for air 10% to the cool the engine i didnt even think of thanks. but for that by taking out the brights so they act as port and use braking ducts tubing to force air to the front of the engine. just change you standard lights to low and high beams. it would cause more front end drag but when a stock mercury wont even hit a 100mph going up that much slope