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brake line flare fittings

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    #1

    brake line flare fittings

    my rear brakes just went out, line blew right above the tranny crossmember (where they usually go anyways. When that happened to the Chevy I just capped the port of the master cylinder as there's no proportional valve to mess me up, car however still has the proportional valve. Where shall I cap the rear brakes off for the Townie, at the master cylinder or at the proportional valve? I don't have the time or the money to install new brake lines now, so I'll just keep the fronts only so I can drive the car (vs. towing it) to my buddy's place when we can work on it.

    Also I know there are some metric fittings for some of the lines, what size are they? Really, what sizes are all flare fittings of a Panther braking system?
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    #2
    Make sure your front hoses are ok before you go drivin with just the fronts.
    '89 Ford LTD Crown Vic - '92 Ford F-150 Custom -
    '95 Ford Bronco XL -

    sigpic :rebel:

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      #3
      you dont have 2 hrs and 20 bucks to fix your brakes......pretty sure you can borrow a double flaring tool from autozone........could do it without flaring too......you need a couple sections of 3/16" brake line and a couple unions.......running the lines dont have to be neat, just that it dont get caught on anything or rub......zipties work wonders

      1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
      2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
      1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
      1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
      2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
      1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)

      please be patient, rebuilding an empire!

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        #4
        Scott, I would be able to fix them for sure, but some of my neighbors bitch about working on my car and the manager of the apartment complex while not raising hell upon me for that ain't too happy with all that, so I avoid doing major stuff like that there. I can do it at school, but I need to get the car there somehow, and even if I tow it with the truck I still need the brakes being at least partly functioning. I will do a full line replacement from the proportioning valve to the rear, no point in patching up one place just to have it blow somewhere else. So if I'm gonna do that, I'm gonna need that metric fitting for the proportioning valve, do you happen to know what size it is?

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          #5
          if you don't F' it up taking it off, reuse it. you can just break the line and fold it over on itself or crimp it so it doesn't spray fluid all over the place.
          Builder/Owner of Badass Panther Wagons

          Busy maintaining a fleet of Fords

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            #6
            That's a great idea, I'm gonna do that. Will just folding it over on itself be enough to seal it, or I still need to clamp it somehow?

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              #7
              Fold it over and take a hammer to smack it flat and it should seal it acceptably.
              86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
              5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

              91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

              1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

              Originally posted by phayzer5
              I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

              Comment

                #8
                I was thinking more along the lines of 1-foot Grip Lock pliers, but I have a 5-lb "engineering" hammer as well :evil:

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                  #9
                  Well, it's done - 11ft of brake line and 2 hours later car has rear brakes. Also found the cause of my loss of brake power at traffic lights - it wasn't the brake booster, but an internal leak in the master cylinder, just as I suspected. I now have a remaned master cylinder, and it works real nice. Brakes are kinda soft, but that's compared to the truck, where the hydro-boost gives the feel of manual brakes with the power of vacuum assist... Converting to hydro-boost seems more and more appealing

                  Oh, and just for the record - the fitting at the proportioning valve is 11x1mm thread.

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