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KYB: gr2 vs gas-a-just?

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    #46
    I love safety glasses. Id rather look like an idiot for an hour than crawl out from under my car with bits of undercoating and road salt in my eye. Ive been there and it's not worth it.
    "Shakedown"- 1991 Grand Marquis GS Dual exhaust, Magnaflow xl turbos, Rear anti sway bar, Outlaw 1 wheels, 43k miles
    1985 GMC 1500

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      #47
      I installed all new shocks over the weekend- went from brand new Monroe Sens-A-Tracs to KYBs on all four corners. The Monroes were crap- took fifty yards after a bump to stop bouncing. May have been better on stock coils, but bad for drops.

      Couldn't have taken more than an hour to do all four without even pulling off any of the wheels. Slip a wrench on the top of the rears and spin them off. If the fronts spin you should be able to get vice grips between the upper control arm and the frame to grab the shock at the very base of the stud.
      2011 Mustang GT Premium, MT82, Kona/Saddle, HIDs, 3.73s, 19s, hood/side stripes, UPR 1.5" springs with adjustable panhard bar, and UMI solid LCAs and relocation brackets.
      1992 Explorer Eddie Bauer, slight lift, 34s, and A/C...
      1979 Bronco Custom, 351M/C6/NP205, 4" lift, 35s, lots of fender trimming.

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        #48
        I have Gas-a-justs and I love em. Compared to other shocks I have used, these are my favorites. They are sporty without fealing like a freaking go-kart. This is my opinion though. Some like a stiffer ride and although gas-a-justs are not soft by any means, they are also not stiff.
        Vehicle: 1965 Pontiac Catalina (fastback 2+2)
        Chasis: 1982 Ford LTD Country Squire
        Drivetrain: 302 V8 carb, AOD, 8.8 with 3.08 gears.
        Big Brake swap and front suspension completed.
        sigpic

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          #49
          People are making a huge deal on how hard the rear shocks are to replace when they're really not. The access to the top is kind of difficult, but really the only tool you need is a ratcheting box-end wrench. Makes things super easy. I'd only foresee problems if the top of the old shock is fucked up with rust or whatever. They're really not super-difficult to do, neither are front shocks.

          Springs? Never done them.
          Originally posted by gadget73
          There is nothing more permanent than a temporary fix.
          91 Mercury CP, Lopo 302, AOD, 3.08LSD. 3g upgrade, Moog wagon coils up front, cc819s in the back. KYB GR-2 police shocks. Energy suspension control arm bushings. Smog deleted.
          93 F-150 XLT, 302, ZF 5-spd from 1-ton, 4wd.
          Daily--07 Civic Coupe. Bone stock with 25k miles
          Wife--14 Subaru Outback. 6-speed.
          95 Subaru Legacy Wagon--red--STOLEN 1/6/13

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            #50
            Originally posted by 91waggin View Post

            Springs? Never done them.
            Easier than the rear shocks.

            Pete
            Originally posted by gadget73
            For other types of inquiry, more information is required. Please press 4 to speak to a representative who can help you with your question. This call may be monitored for quality assurance purposes.


            2003 Grand Marquis Ultimate, the "Stealth Bomber": http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthre...-Grand-Marquis
            1991 S-10, 'Bulldog', 2.5l 5 speed: http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthre...375#post698375
            1985 Town Car, 'Faded Glory', gone but not forgotten. 84/87/91/97 MGMs too.

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              #51
              Am I reading this right that you need 2 floor jacks to do rear springs?

              85 4 door 351 Civi Crown Victoria - Summer daily driver, sleeper in the making, and wildly inappropriate autocross machine
              160KMs 600cfm holley, shorty headers, 2.5" catted exhaust, 255/295 tires, cop shocks, cop swaybars, underdrive pulley, 2.73L gears.
              waiting for install: 3.27's, Poly bushings, boxed rear arms, 2500 stall converter, ported e7's, etc

              06 Mazda 3 hatch 2.3L 5AT (winter beater that cost more than my summer car)

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                #52
                I used one but it would be more convienent with two. With one, you jack up the opposite side of the axle, swap out the spring, go back and forth slowly lowering the jack, then checking the spring, till the spring is properly seated, and then you bring the jack around so you can jack up the side you're working on to install the shock. With two you wouldn't have to bring the jack back around.

                Am I making any sense at all?

                Pete
                Originally posted by gadget73
                For other types of inquiry, more information is required. Please press 4 to speak to a representative who can help you with your question. This call may be monitored for quality assurance purposes.


                2003 Grand Marquis Ultimate, the "Stealth Bomber": http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthre...-Grand-Marquis
                1991 S-10, 'Bulldog', 2.5l 5 speed: http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthre...375#post698375
                1985 Town Car, 'Faded Glory', gone but not forgotten. 84/87/91/97 MGMs too.

                Comment

                  #53
                  yeah, makes sense. I was thinking you needed to actuate two jacks, but I see how the one-jack method would work. Thanks.

                  85 4 door 351 Civi Crown Victoria - Summer daily driver, sleeper in the making, and wildly inappropriate autocross machine
                  160KMs 600cfm holley, shorty headers, 2.5" catted exhaust, 255/295 tires, cop shocks, cop swaybars, underdrive pulley, 2.73L gears.
                  waiting for install: 3.27's, Poly bushings, boxed rear arms, 2500 stall converter, ported e7's, etc

                  06 Mazda 3 hatch 2.3L 5AT (winter beater that cost more than my summer car)

                  Comment

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