Front-end overhaul

[91waggin]

Awhile ago, I got some new front springs for my car. When I went to install them, I learned that you have to remove the lower control arms in order to remove the springs. In the interest of not taking shit apart more than once, I decided to hold off until I could do a full front-end overhaul.
Keep in mind I don't know a whole lot about suspension, especially on these cars.
For my own reference, I'm going to list the parts I have and need here, and then ask a bunch of questions.

Lower & Upper control arm bushings
Lower & Upper ball joints
Coil Springs (have)
Sway bar endlinks (have)
Sway bar bushings
Anything else?

A list of questions
1) What Energy Suspension kits do I need for the upper and lower control arm bushings? I do not have a police package car.

2) Is there any special equipment required to remove the control arm bushings? I have a small hand-held propane torch, which I think I might need, but nothing more heavy duty than that.

3) What's the procedure involved in removing the bushings? I think I read something about torching them out, but I'm not sure. I also don't know what to throw away and what I have to reuse.

4) My Chilton's manual says that I can't replace the lower ball joint, as it's an integral part of the lower control arm, but I see them for sale. What gives?

5) Do I need anything besides a ball joint press for ball joint removal and installation?

Thanks guys!

[sly]

#1 dunno... someone else probably knows this.

#2 spring compressor (up the middle type... "grappling hook" thing.) This way you can hold the spring tight to remove the lower control arm and extremely reduce the risk of serious harm/death.

#3 if using the energy poly bushings, you just clean the rubber out of the old bushings and press/slide the poly into the old shells. This is what the torch is for.

#4... the Chiltons is full of crap on that one. You just need the ball joint tool (C-clamp looking thing with some adapters). one way pressed them out... another way pushes one in.

#5 basic socket set to get the bolt out of the wheel spindle assembly thing (I'm not that good with technical terms).

You may also need to remove the tire rods from the center link to get clearance to remove the bolts on the lower control arms up front... which may involve a pickle fork, crowbar, or other prying implement and a large hammer/sledge to make it cooperate.

[Pesty351]

I removed my front springs by just the disconnecting the upper ball joint and tie rod end. All that it took after that was a little pry bar action and it fell out. I'm not saying it is the safest way but it really didn't seem to be under that much tension.

[Pirate]

Awhile ago, I got some new front springs for my car. When I went to install them, I learned that you have to remove the lower control arms in order to remove the springs. In the interest of not taking shit apart more than once, I decided to hold off until I could do a full front-end overhaul.
Keep in mind I don't know a whole lot about suspension, especially on these cars.
For my own reference, I'm going to list the parts I have and need here, and then ask a bunch of questions.

Lower & Upper control arm bushings
Lower & Upper ball joints
Coil Springs (have)
Sway bar endlinks (have)
Sway bar bushings
Anything else?

A list of questions
1) What Energy Suspension kits do I need for the upper and lower control arm bushings? I do not have a police package car.

2) Is there any special equipment required to remove the control arm bushings? I have a small hand-held propane torch, which I think I might need, but nothing more heavy duty than that.

3) What's the procedure involved in removing the bushings? I think I read something about torching them out, but I'm not sure. I also don't know what to throw away and what I have to reuse.

4) My Chilton's manual says that I can't replace the lower ball joint, as it's an integral part of the lower control arm, but I see them for sale. What gives?

5) Do I need anything besides a ball joint press for ball joint removal and installation?

Thanks guys!

A note:

I have a friend (pretty much works on Fords only out of his home shop, has a nasty 408W mustang) over in Beaverton/Aloha (off of SW 208th ave and TV Hiway, remember, I used to live in Portland) who might be able to install all of this stuff for you fairly cheap, if this is beyond your skill level....PM me if you want his phone number.

Beyond that, whenever I heal up (hernia surgery), if you haven't gotten this taken care of in the next couple of months, I might be able to walk you through this.

So far as the ball joints and bushings go....you really need a decent hydraulic press. Using the torch only burns out the rubber centers. I haven't looked at the bushings in a while, but if the new bushings have the metal outers....the old shells will have to be pressed or chiseled out.

The ball joints? It's almost a press-only deal, unless you can afford or borrow a decent ball-joint socket tool set (looks like a stupidly-thick C clamp).

Or, just sell me the car for $50.

[gadget73]

The spring comes out by disconnecting the ball joint and lowering the control arm. I would keep a jack under there so it doesn't shoot the arm down and eject the spring, but as long as you lower it in a controlled manner you do not need the compressor to remove it. Installing may be a different story, I've never had any luck shoving them back in without it but some have.

1) 4.3150G
2) roofing torch works great for this, and a big flamethrower is just a fun toy. You'll be there all day burning bushings out with a handheld. Compressor is also very useful, the in the center type as mentioned
3) cook it out as mentioned. Poly bushings have no outer shell, so the original shell needs to remain in place. Rubber is a different story entirely.
4) thats the Ford factory way of doing it. They want you to have new control arm bushings with the new ball joint, and Chilton's doesn't want to assume any liability by deviating from the Ford method. You're replacing the bushings anyway, so this isn't a concern. Just press the ball joint out and do the bushings. Big C clamp looking thing is the magic tool.
5) see #2

[Pesty351]

i found that you only have to get the old bushings hot enough to twist out the metal tube in the center. At that point you can just use a screw driver and easily dig out the rest of the rubber in one big chunk.

[91waggin]

A note:

I have a friend (pretty much works on Fords only out of his home shop, has a nasty 408W mustang) over in Beaverton/Aloha (off of SW 208th ave and TV Hiway, remember, I used to live in Portland) who might be able to install all of this stuff for you fairly cheap, if this is beyond your skill level....PM me if you want his phone number.

Beyond that, whenever I heal up (hernia surgery), if you haven't gotten this taken care of in the next couple of months, I might be able to walk you through this.

So far as the ball joints and bushings go....you really need a decent hydraulic press. Using the torch only burns out the rubber centers. I haven't looked at the bushings in a while, but if the new bushings have the metal outers....the old shells will have to be pressed or chiseled out.

The ball joints? It's almost a press-only deal, unless you can afford or borrow a decent ball-joint socket tool set (looks like a stupidly-thick C clamp).

Or, just sell me the car for $50.

I don't think it's beyond my skill level. But it will certainly be a learning experience. The way I figure, if I assume it's beyond my skill level, and send it to a shop, it will always be beyond my skill level.

Sorry to hear about your hernia, but even sympathy will never get this car away from me. I'm basically the first owner (my dad bought it new and I grew up riding around in it).

[91waggin]

#1 dunno... someone else probably knows this.

#2 spring compressor (up the middle type... "grappling hook" thing.) This way you can hold the spring tight to remove the lower control arm and extremely reduce the risk of serious harm/death.

#3 if using the energy poly bushings, you just clean the rubber out of the old bushings and press/slide the poly into the old shells. This is what the torch is for.

#4... the Chiltons is full of crap on that one. You just need the ball joint tool (C-clamp looking thing with some adapters). one way pressed them out... another way pushes one in.

#5 basic socket set to get the bolt out of the wheel spindle assembly thing (I'm not that good with technical terms).

You may also need to remove the tire rods from the center link to get clearance to remove the bolts on the lower control arms up front... which may involve a pickle fork, crowbar, or other prying implement and a large hammer/sledge to make it cooperate.

Thanks for the info. I have removed the center link from the tie rods before, and it didn't take more than a good hit with a hammer.

I knew the story with the front springs, having rented the right compressor before I learned I had to remove the control arms (I read someone on the forums saying the inside type was the only way to do it.)

[91waggin]

The spring comes out by disconnecting the ball joint and lowering the control arm. I would keep a jack under there so it doesn't shoot the arm down and eject the spring, but as long as you lower it in a controlled manner you do not need the compressor to remove it. Installing may be a different story, I've never had any luck shoving them back in without it but some have.

1) 4.3150G
2) roofing torch works great for this, and a big flamethrower is just a fun toy. You'll be there all day burning bushings out with a handheld. Compressor is also very useful, the in the center type as mentioned
3) cook it out as mentioned. Poly bushings have no outer shell, so the original shell needs to remain in place. Rubber is a different story entirely.
4) thats the Ford factory way of doing it. They want you to have new control arm bushings with the new ball joint, and Chilton's doesn't want to assume any liability by deviating from the Ford method. You're replacing the bushings anyway, so this isn't a concern. Just press the ball joint out and do the bushings. Big C clamp looking thing is the magic tool.
5) see #2

Thanks so much for the information! You guys really are just amazing.

[Piece-it pete]

I recently did this, I'll add that if you have the funds and haven't already, might as well change the inner/outer tie rod ends and heck the adjusting sleeves too (depending on how yours look). You'll have them half off at least and you'll need an alignment anyway.

Also the lower control arms should have the nuts replaced? I know there's info here. I didn't but plan on it soon.

Safety first with the springs, it was suggested to me that during the removal process unbolt the top of the shock, leave the lower connected, if the spring decides to sproing it can't get far

Just wait till it's done dude, it rocks!!

Pete

[gadget73]

The sleeves often rust fast to the rod ends, so replacing them is sometimes more requirement than option. They're really cheap though so its not a bad idea in any case.

The uppers are supposed to have the nuts replaced. I want to say its a 5/8" coarse self-locking nut but don't hold me to that. Its on here somewhere.

[Piece-it pete]

Oh the UPPERS. A lifetime of cheesy television has lowered my memory to about 2%.

Pete

[91waggin]

Ok. I'm finally coming back to this project, as I'm working now and have some money. I'm looking at rockauto's parts prices for ball joints and tie rod ends, and I'm seeing some drastically different prices. My first instinct is to go with Moog, but their parts cost a pretty penny compared to the other stuff.

For example--

Upper ball joint:
Raybestos Service Grade: $18.35
Raybestos Professional Grade: $56.79
Moog: $42.79

Inner Tie Rod End:
Moog: $27.79
Mevotech: $13.80


Why is there such a price difference? I know that generally speaking "you get what you pay for," but does that hold true here?

[Glen]

Ya, it kinda does. This is job you only want to do once.

[88grandmarq]

Ok. I'm finally coming back to this project, as I'm working now and have some money. I'm looking at rockauto's parts prices for ball joints and tie rod ends, and I'm seeing some drastically different prices. My first instinct is to go with Moog, but their parts cost a pretty penny compared to the other stuff.

For example--

Upper ball joint:
Raybestos Service Grade: $18.35
Raybestos Professional Grade: $56.79
Moog: $42.79

Inner Tie Rod End:
Moog: $27.79
Mevotech: $13.80


Why is there such a price difference? I know that generally speaking "you get what you pay for," but does that hold true here?

The main difference will be the quality of the parts. Moog is usually good stuff, is made in US, Mexico or Canada and most often has grease fittings. the other cheaper parts are usually Chinese imports and are sealed units (non-greasable).

when I rebuilt the front end on my Box Body, I used all Napa premium parts, which is essentially the same as Moog. these were all HD parts with Greasable joints. I paid a little bit more, but the parts quality was much better.