I just got the car and the parking brakes won't release fully sometimes. I raised the back tires off the ground and tried to turn them and the right one wouldn't move. If I got under the car and grabbed the cable down, it would release and all would be fine. I put in a new brake return spring kit with no change. I put in a new right rear cable with no change. Now I'm pretty sure it's that parking brake pedal assembly. Can it be oiled so it doesn't stick? Getting one from a junkyard that is any better is just a gamble. Just getting it out of the car looks like a PITA. Any other suggestions besides not using the parking brake? It won't pass inspection without it.
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Here is a question? I believe there is a spring or tensioner in the rear. Would adjusting that and or replacing the spring with a heavier one help?
Jay03 Marauder DPB, HS, 6disk, Organizer Mods> LED's in & Out, M&Z rear control arms, Oil deflector, U-Haul Trans Pan, Blue Fuzzy Dice
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12 Escape Limited V6 AWD, 225/65R17 Vredestein Quatrac Pro, Winter 235/70-16 Conti Viking Contact7 Mods>Beamtech LED headlight bulbs, Husky floor liners -
adjustment
The following procedure is to be used only if a new parking brake control assembly is installed. All components of the parking brake system must be installed prior to the adjustment procedure. The parking brake control with automatic tensioning is preset by means of a shipping clip. The following procedure must be followed in sequence and must be done with the vehicle weight on the axle.
Verify removal of the shipping clip. The take-up reel will apply tension to the system.
Depress the parking brake control to the 8th notch.
Push the parking brake control pedal to release.
Check the parking brake function as follows:
Apply the parking brake with a full stroke, to the 9th or 10th notch.
Release the parking brake by shifting the vehicle into a forward gear with the engine running. The control must release.
Apply the parking brake with a full stroke, to the 9th or 10th notch.
Manually release the parking brake with the push-to-release feature.
With the control in the OFF position, the rear brakes must not drag. Check for movement of the rear cables from their conduits when the intermediate cable is deflected with a force of 10-15 lbs.sigpic
- 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims
- 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust
- 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stockComment
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lube everything.
What have you done on the inside of the drum?
85 4 door 351 Civi Crown Victoria - Summer daily driver, sleeper in the making, and wildly inappropriate autocross machine
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waiting for install: 3.27's, Poly bushings, boxed rear arms, 2500 stall converter, ported e7's, etc
06 Mazda 3 hatch 2.3L 5AT (winter beater that cost more than my summer car)Comment
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When you pull the cable underneath, which way does it move? If its pulling from the pedal side, then likely the front cable is shot. If its moving on the drum side, you need to pull the drums and see whats going on inside. I'd still suggest doing that anway. You may have a seized linkage inside the drum or a burr kicked up on the backing plate thats holding the shoe up.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousersComment
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I think you are right. I bought a new pedal assembly for nothing. I've got to yank the cable down pretty hard to get it to pull out of the pedal side. I disconnected the front cable under the car and I can pull back cable smoothly on and off.Originally posted by gadget73 View Post
Now how do I get the cable out of the pedal assembly? I've got the outer cable retainer out of the bracket and the cable grommet is free of the firewall. There is no room to work.Comment
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gotta drop the pedal assembly I think. Its a bitch, theres almost no room in there. I've never pulled the cable out, but I did have to pull the pedal assembly out once and its a job I don't wish on anyone thats less flexible or larger than your average 9 year old.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousersComment
Comment