Rear drum to '09 PI rear disc conversion...

[sick88tbird]

I finally did the BIG front brake conversion and am running an '00 PI booster/master cyl and have an amazing pedal feel....today I am doing the rear using '09 PI parts(larger vented rotors). Found a minor issue...that is simply more of an inconvenience than anything. I'm wondering what year that Ford, in all they're infinite wisdom, decided to rotate the housing ends on the 8.8" by 90*. I went to test fit on one side and found the backing plate/caliper bracket can only go on in 1 of 2 ways, putting the caliper either dead on top or bottom...not on the leading side like the '09's...I went out back to look at the housing and sure enough, the housing end is rotated 90*....other than that it fits like a champ. I'm going to see if I can come up with any quick & easy solutions...otherwise I'll have to leave the calipers unbolted and hold them on the leading side of the rotors while bleeding the brakes...which I guess is a small price to pay. I'll try and get some pics as I go.

-Don

[mrltd]

I'm gonna say 03. When they completely redesigned everything.

Wonder if there is a way to use those rotors with the older setup.

[sick88tbird]

Pads are different than the early solid disc setup...I would assume calipers and the bracket would be different too...being as it has to be done today, I'm going to install it so the calipers are oriented in the 12 o'clock position...brake hose routing may necessitate putting the left caliper on the right side and vice-versa...about to test that theory now.

-Don

[gadget73]

Are the later rear rotors vented?

[sick88tbird]

Yeah, they're vented....hence my hard-on for them...lol. Switching calipers from side to side worked like a charm...a slight tweak on the hose and it runs beautifully under the axle and back up to the back side of the LCA bracket where I drilled a mounting hole and fastened the hose bracket there with an 8mmx1.25 U-nut and shiny bolt...pics when I'm done...I promise. Mock-up phase is over with...now I need to call O'Reilly and see if they have axle seals in stock and can get'em to me in a timely fashion.

-Don

update...seals on the way!

[sick88tbird]

New seals installed! Moving on...

[jaywish]

cool, can't wait to see this.

Jay

[sick88tbird]

Left side is assembled and plumbed...all work and no eat make Don a dead boy....making a McDonalds run.

[sick88tbird]

With about 2800 calories of McDonalds in my belly and a tasty nicotine product hanging out of my mouth, I now wonder what to do about emergency brake cables...I pirated all the cables from the '09 at the j-yard...I guess I should finish the install of the hard parts first...lol. BACK TO WORK!

-Don

[sick88tbird]

Currently fabbing a mount for the adjustable prop valve...after that, all that's left is minor plumbing, gutting the secondary side of the original prop valve and bleeding the brakes. Brake bleeding may have to wait till tomorrow.

-Don

[sick88tbird]

Pics pics pics!!!




Would have been nice if you didn't have to click to enlarge...I'm just clueless with putting pics here.

The last few pictures show modifications to the secondary side of the factory prop valve and plug(facing the front of the car). I removed the plug and had to do away with the plasticy/rubbery center, so I drilled a 21/64" hole, tapped it for 1/8" pipe and coated the threads of the brass plug with JB weld so nobody ever thinks about removing it. After that, I removed the spring and plunger device...all it does is hold 8-12lbs of pressure on the factory drum brakes...being as disc brakes are always in contact with the rotor keeping steady pressure on them would be a bad thing.

The location for the Wilwood adjustable prop valve seemed like it was made for it. I welded 2 nuts to the frame(some jackass at work left the argon tank on and it was empty, had to switch over to flux core) threaded in two studs and cranked it down with two nuts and washers. It's not the prettiest thing in the world...was getting tired and pissed off...lol.

So far it works like a dream...I went looking for dimes to stop on today...got change back every time! I have the rear adjustment close but the brakes aren't fully bedded in yet, so once they are things will need to change.

Good times!
-Don

[turbo2256b]

Thought about this brake change a while back. The yard hear woulnt sell me just the brakes only the completer rear at 175.00 plus my old one so killed it. Knew the flange was the same but rotated. Horizontal the flange bolt pattern is the same as the small 9" hsg. Not shure if the backing plate for the 9" would work though say with the wilwood kit. THe late modle Panther stuff would bolt on but my one concern was were the bleeder ended up which I didnt see in your pics.
The porportioning valve would have been better mounted were it could be adjusted from the drivers seat is my only other coment.

[1990LTD]

pretty slick looking. i'll get my rear drums converted eventually.

[sick88tbird]

Bleeding the brakes is a total pain in the ass...caliper has to come off, pull the rotor off, slide the caliper back on in a manner that puts the bleeder screw at the top and you have to hold the whole operation while keeping a hand free to operate the wrench...if you flip the rotor backwards and slide it back on the wheelstuds just barely, then you can safety wire the caliper in place....as for the adjustable prop valve...very easy to access, midway down the door you just reach under and there it is....I thought about poking it up though the floor...would have come up at the front outside corner of the seat. I just didn't have a means of sealing the monster hole I would have needed to drill...it's something that can always be done later if I get real silly.

$175 for a complete rear plus a core is a pretty good price when you consider Wilwood kits start around $1000. I was able to get mine for around $150 when all was said and done.

[86VickyLX]

Fuck that. Nice to know that that stuff does fit. But bleeding it is too much of a pain in the ass.