I was wondering if there is an adjustment for the compressor for the load leveling shocks I have in the back. When the car is empty, its sits right. However, when you load it down with people/items, the rear sags, and it doesn't seem the compressor is doing its job. Is there an adjustment you can do?
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Load Leveling rear in LTC, adjustment
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the adjuster/sensor is connected to the axle housing on the left side of the car about 1/2 way between the wheel and the pumpkin. There are three positions for major adjustment and the nut/screw adjustment for fine tuning.
Before futzing with that, do you know if the compressor ever kicks on?03 Marauder DPB, HS, 6disk, Organizer Mods> LED's in & Out, M&Z rear control arms, Oil deflector, U-Haul Trans Pan, Blue Fuzzy Dice
02 SL500 Silver Arrow
08 TC Signature Limited, HID's Mods>235/55-17 Z rated BFG G-Force Comp-2 A/S Plus, Addco 1" rear Sway, Posi Carrier, Compustar Remote Start, floor liners, trunk organizer, Two part Sun Visors, B&M Trans drain Plug, Winter=05 Mustang GT rims, Nokian Hakkapeliitta R-2 235/55-17
12 Escape Limited V6 AWD, 225/65R17 Vredestein Quatrac Pro, Winter 235/70-16 Conti Viking Contact7 Mods>Beamtech LED headlight bulbs, Husky floor liners
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Oh, the compressor kicks on EVERYTIME i turn the car for for a couple of minutes. Matter of fact, I need to put in new bushings between the compressor and the car (the rubber is past it)!
I knew there had to be some adjustment, right now the rear is sagging like nobody's business. (car full of moving stuff)"To Find yourself, you must first lose yourself"
-1973 Volkswagen Bus Westy
-1986 Honda Magna 700cc
-1989 Lincoln Town car Signature Series
-2011 Subaru Outback
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make sure you don't have air leaks, or it won't maintain ride height. Common spots are at the top and bottom of the drier, but you really want to check all the connections. Its never going to be completely airtight, but you want to make sure its not leaking excessively.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
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If it really runs for a couple of min every time you start the car, then you do have at least one leak. My cars usually run for about 20 seconds.03 Marauder DPB, HS, 6disk, Organizer Mods> LED's in & Out, M&Z rear control arms, Oil deflector, U-Haul Trans Pan, Blue Fuzzy Dice
02 SL500 Silver Arrow
08 TC Signature Limited, HID's Mods>235/55-17 Z rated BFG G-Force Comp-2 A/S Plus, Addco 1" rear Sway, Posi Carrier, Compustar Remote Start, floor liners, trunk organizer, Two part Sun Visors, B&M Trans drain Plug, Winter=05 Mustang GT rims, Nokian Hakkapeliitta R-2 235/55-17
12 Escape Limited V6 AWD, 225/65R17 Vredestein Quatrac Pro, Winter 235/70-16 Conti Viking Contact7 Mods>Beamtech LED headlight bulbs, Husky floor liners
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Ok, so, I didn't find the adjustment straddling the axle. I will check for leaks
Gadget, what do you mean by drier?
I looked at the shocks in the back and basically, there are two vaccum like hoses (diff colors) going into the side of the shock, upper part. Between the top and bottom part of the shock, there looks like to be a rubber like bladder that goes between the shock components. It looks to be like there are a couple tears that may go through the rubber. If this is where the air goes (in the bladder), than I might need new shocks, as well as the front. These rear shocks have some Japanese/Chinese writing on it, so I don't think it is from the factory. Any thoughts?"To Find yourself, you must first lose yourself"
-1973 Volkswagen Bus Westy
-1986 Honda Magna 700cc
-1989 Lincoln Town car Signature Series
-2011 Subaru Outback
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I was going to get this for the front
KYB Part # 343128 GR-2 / Excel-G
Front; Except Limousine
For the rear, this is the closest I got:
MONROE Part # MA815 Max-Air Air; Sold In Pairs (Rebate/Promotion Available!)
Rear; For Towing & Hauling; w/o Commercial Chassis; PN[AK14] Req'd for Installation on Vehicles With Auto Air Levelling Systems.; Use Monroe PN[AK18] to Replace Single Air Shock Fill System if Necessary; Use Monroe PN[AK64] to Add Separate L/R Air Shock Fill System if Desi
>>>>> From the picture, it didn't look like it has two oulets for hoses but one (these shocks are both from rockauto)"To Find yourself, you must first lose yourself"
-1973 Volkswagen Bus Westy
-1986 Honda Magna 700cc
-1989 Lincoln Town car Signature Series
-2011 Subaru Outback
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With respect to the shocks, the rears are correct. For the other parts, I do not know what AK14 is so I would call Monroe and ask them. It might be a package of air lines which you will not need unless they have a leak somewhere.
The dryer Gadget referenced is bayonet mounted to the air compressor. It is the plastic drum that has the air line attached.
The adjuster is there. It connects the body of the car to the control arm on the driver side, not the axle housing as I said earlier.
When you connect the air lines to the new shocks, you will clean the surface of the line, use the new supplied bushings but you may also want to make a nice new cut on the end of the lines, with a razor, taking off just 1/4" make sure you will still have more than sufficient slack in the lines. After the shocks are installed and pressurized, check the connections for leaks with a bit of soapy water.
Just by the way these systems do not have an on/off switch like the later ones so make sure the key is off untill you are ready to pressurize the shocks.Last edited by jaywish; 09-25-2013, 09:10 AM.03 Marauder DPB, HS, 6disk, Organizer Mods> LED's in & Out, M&Z rear control arms, Oil deflector, U-Haul Trans Pan, Blue Fuzzy Dice
02 SL500 Silver Arrow
08 TC Signature Limited, HID's Mods>235/55-17 Z rated BFG G-Force Comp-2 A/S Plus, Addco 1" rear Sway, Posi Carrier, Compustar Remote Start, floor liners, trunk organizer, Two part Sun Visors, B&M Trans drain Plug, Winter=05 Mustang GT rims, Nokian Hakkapeliitta R-2 235/55-17
12 Escape Limited V6 AWD, 225/65R17 Vredestein Quatrac Pro, Winter 235/70-16 Conti Viking Contact7 Mods>Beamtech LED headlight bulbs, Husky floor liners
Comment
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Thanks for the breakdown JAYWISH
So your saying the Monroe's for the rear are correct? I will call to confirm. So I am still confused the adjuster is located in the dryer which is. This potential leak area is by the front control arm???
so the dryer is the adjuster?? Sorry, but I am totoally lost
Originally posted by jaywish View PostWith respect to the shocks, the rears are correct. For the other parts, I do not know what AK14 is so I would call Monroe and ask them. It might be a package of air lines which you will not need unless they have a leak somewhere.
The dryer Gadget referenced is bayonet mounted to the air compressor. It is the plastic drum that has the air line attached.
The adjuster is there. It connects the body of the car to the control arm on the driver side, not the axle housing as I said earlier.
When you connect the air lines to the new shocks, you will clean the surface of the line, use the new supplied bushings but you may also want to make a nice new cut on the end of the lines, with a razor, taking off just 1/4" make sure you will still have more than sufficient slack in the lines. After the shocks are installed and pressurized, check the connections for leaks with a bit of soapy water.
Just by the way these systems do not have an on/off switch like the later ones so make sure the key is off untill you are ready to pressurize the shocks."To Find yourself, you must first lose yourself"
-1973 Volkswagen Bus Westy
-1986 Honda Magna 700cc
-1989 Lincoln Town car Signature Series
-2011 Subaru Outback
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