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    brake line diameters?

    Scary as it sounds for a PA/MD/now IA vehicle, I do believe I have OE brake lines on my 1990 colony park.

    I'm feeling inspired to dig into this little project right now: I have the time, I sortof have the money, I can afford to not drive it for a week or two, and it's summertime weather. I certainly wouldn't enjoy doing it anytime after say October, or if I need my car for a daily commute and it broke down and had to be done RIGHT THEN. I like to do things for the long haul, so I'm thinking about ordering SST brake line off the internet (any reason not to do so? besides the extra $40 it'll cost me).

    What diameter line should I order? How many feet/ and is it 8 fittings?



    Secondarily, would it behoove me to look into redoing the fuel lines too if they're original, or do they hold up better? If I should do them, same question (size line to get?) How do I go about attaching the little rubber/plastic flex fittings to the steel fuel line, where it meets the filter and meets the engine?

    #2
    I'm also interested in this. My car has new brake lines to the back but the front are old. When I replaced my calipers a bunch of guys here told me to replace my lines up front. From what they said, the fronts are easier to install in two sections each. So you would have four lines and eight fittings just for the front brake lines.

    From what I've seen on my car, some of the original fuel lines are looking nasty... way nastier than my front brake lines. There's a few that appear to go by the driver's side of the crank pulley. Never investigated if these are returns or not. I know they're chunky on my car though.

    '78 LTD | '87 Grand Marquis | '89 Crown Vic (RIP) | '91 Grand Marquis (RIP) | '94 Town Car (RIP) | '97 Town Car (RIP)

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      #3
      brakes= The factory setup on an 89 cv/gm had 12 fittings, a 90 could be different. Since you will probably split a few lines get maybe 18 fittings. In addition to the fittings you require a few couplers. In mine I split the right front (at the crossmember) and rear line (just past the firewall). You can expect a number of the brake line clips to be destroyed in the removal process so get some new ones. Also you should change the 5 rubber brake hoses if they have not already been replaced. You need a double flaring tool, I would not buy cheap as you want the flares to work every time.

      Since I did my lines over a period of time I am not sure how much line you need but I am guesstimating 40-50'

      Don't know if you have done this already or not. While you are under there and the car is off the ground push the rear wheels straight up and down. If you get any appreciable movement your axles/bearings are worn. When you need to remove the axles it is a good time for a rear disk swap.
      03 Marauder DPB, HS, 6disk, Organizer Mods> LED's in & Out, M&Z rear control arms, Oil deflector, U-Haul Trans Pan, Blue Fuzzy Dice
      02 SL500 Silver Arrow
      08 TC Signature Limited, HID's Mods>235/55-17 Z rated BFG G-Force Comp-2 A/S Plus, Addco 1" rear Sway, Posi Carrier, Compustar Remote Start, floor liners, trunk organizer, Two part Sun Visors, B&M Trans drain Plug, Winter=05 Mustang GT rims, Nokian Hakkapeliitta R-2 235/55-17
      12 Escape Limited V6 AWD, 225/65R17 Vredestein Quatrac Pro, Winter 235/70-16 Conti Viking Contact7 Mods>Beamtech LED headlight bulbs, Husky floor liners

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        #4
        pretty sure its all 3/16" line. 50 feet would be way more than enough. I know one roll was plenty do to the run from the master cyl to the rear and then across for the other caliper. Want to say the rolls are 25 feet. Only maybe another 10 feet at most for both front lines from that point.

        the number of fittings will depend on your particular system. best bet is to count them, and then buy a few more for the one you forgot.

        definitly buy a good tool. get one that will do bubbles and doubles if possible. at some point I think the master cylinder went to a bubble flare, and I don't know if the 1990 uses that or not. If not, it will still be a handy tool to have in the future.


        not sure I'd do stainless. its prone to fractures with vibration and stress. the nickel copper stuff is more durable in that regard. doesn't have the corrosion problems raw steel does either. even coated steel will do you Ok
        Last edited by gadget73; 06-04-2014, 05:35 PM.
        86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
        5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

        91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

        1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

        Originally posted by phayzer5
        I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

        Comment


          #5
          Double flare on the master and you will need to reuse the fittings. DON'T use stainless! VERY hard to make double flares without splitting! 3/16 is the correct size. WagonMan
          89 Colony Park
          90 Colony Park
          70 HEMI Daytona Convertible

          Comment


            #6
            3/16 line, a roll (25') should be enough for the rear main line and rear axle line. front lines shouldn't be much, maybe 10 feet depending on how you bend/route 'em.
            sigpic


            - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

            - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

            - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by slack View Post
              I'm also interested in this. My car has new brake lines to the back but the front are old. When I replaced my calipers a bunch of guys here told me to replace my lines up front. From what they said, the fronts are easier to install in two sections each. So you would have four lines and eight fittings just for the front brake lines.

              I like doing this when I run rear lines. Run a line off of the master cylinder halfway down the car, stick a union in there and start another line there. That way if one end goes bad you can replace a section and not the entire line.
              sigpic


              - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

              - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

              - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

              Comment


                #8
                as for the fuel line....it should be 5/16th

                Comment


                  #9
                  thanks guys!

                  Aww, so no SST? I always feel better when I can 'upgrade' but if it's gonna split on me, that would definitely be worse!!

                  So when I order fuel line... how do I attach the plastic bits??

                  Comment


                    #10
                    ah, nevermind. Read up on the copper-nickel stuff. Seems like it'll last for the long haul, and is cheaper than SST as well as easier to work with. Good deal.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      I like to undercoat lines after I do 'em.
                      sigpic


                      - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

                      - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

                      - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

                      Comment

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