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    #61
    Originally posted by turbo2256b View Post
    QA1 bought out Carrera years ago think there might be 2 or 3 different valvings. Also length should be determined by static ride height. Stiffness will depend on spring rates. Stiffer springs stifer shocks
    Yeah that's why I asked about QA1.

    I'm more trying to figure out how stiff they are compared to stock or police shocks. Obviously stiffer, but would the softest QA1 be twice as stiff as a police shock? 4-5 times? They don't seem to be measured like springs are with the spring rate and installed height being published.

    Better yet, do they make an adjustable one? Being able to go from police firmness to teeth rattling in a couple minutes under the car would be a dream.

    85 4 door 351 Civi Crown Victoria - Summer daily driver, sleeper in the making, and wildly inappropriate autocross machine
    160KMs 600cfm holley, shorty headers, 2.5" catted exhaust, 255/295 tires, cop shocks, cop swaybars, underdrive pulley, 2.73L gears.
    waiting for install: 3.27's, Poly bushings, boxed rear arms, 2500 stall converter, ported e7's, etc

    06 Mazda 3 hatch 2.3L 5AT (winter beater that cost more than my summer car)

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      #62
      Originally posted by ootdega View Post
      The reason for it is the road at that particular turn is inclined to the right. It's called "gravity."
      darn that gravity thing... always working and stuff.

      Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
      rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
      Originally posted by gadget73
      ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
      Originally posted by dmccaig
      Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

      Comment


        #63
        QA1 makes single and dual adjustable shocks. Many of their shocks are rebuildable. yOU HAVE TO MEASURE YOUR SHOCK LENGTHS / distance between mounting points on a level surface. Info on extended and compressed lengths for just about any shock can be found. Then find mid travel of the shock using compressed lenght and add half the shock travel to find ones close to your measururement between shock mtg points. Also can use extended length and sbtract half the stroke or subtact extended from compressed to find stroke and do the afore mentioned math. Some aftermarket shocks will give a recomended mid lengths usally about + or - a inch or so.

        The adjust able QA1s on he rear are easy to adjust as fronts are a bit of a pain. Fronts, one has to drop the bottom of the shocks and pull the body carefully downward far enough to be able to get to the adjustment knobs. Think the double adjustables are around 250 or so now through summit. Remember though they are rebuildable. Rebuilds cost depends on what needs replaced could run between 40 to 250 to rebuild a pair.
        Soon it will be time for my big brake swap and will be going to coilovers in the front at which point will be able to adjust the fronts about as easly as the rears.
        Scars are tatoos of the fearless

        Comment


          #64
          I haven't read the entire thread here...

          But severeal people have been talking about shock upgrades to accompany spring upgrades. This is essential.

          If folks are doing the 900+/ 175+ spring rate swa, a shock upgrade is required, otherwise the suspension will be entirely undamped. Utilizing a stock replacement shock with the new springs is not sufficient. Using police spec shocks is techically not suffcient, as police cars did not use springs with anywhere near a 900 lb/in spring rate.

          I ran AFCO 1020s on the front of my red police car for a while. With the stock springs, the suspension was grossly overdamped.

          I think my white car had the 900/225 spring rate combo, with GR-2 shocks, or something like that. It was not right. The springs were way stiffer than the shock, and as such the shock is unable to effectively damp the spring (this is known as underdamped). As a result, you have excessive suspension osciallation under loading, and we all know thats just like driving around with whipped out shocks, albeit not as noticeable because of the extreme spring rate.

          If you really want to do the spring upgrade the right way, you need to find some quality shocks that are made for the job. If you're swapping springs and using stock style replacement shocks, you are making a mistake.
          **2012 Ford Mustang Boss 302: 5.0/ 6 spd/ 3.73s, 20K Cruiser
          **2006 MGM,"Ultimate": 4.6/ 2.73/ Dark Tint, Magnaflows, 19s, 115K Daily Driver
          **2012 Harley Davidson Wide Glide (FXDWG):103/ Cobra Speedsters/ Cosmetics, 9K Poseur HD Rider
          **1976 Ford F-150 4WD: 360, 4 spd, 3.50s, factory A/C, 4" lift, Bilsteins, US Indy Mags, 35s Truck Duties

          Comment


            #65
            Originally posted by turbo2256b View Post
            QA1 makes single and dual adjustable shocks. Many of their shocks are rebuildable. yOU HAVE TO MEASURE YOUR SHOCK LENGTHS / distance between mounting points on a level surface. Info on extended and compressed lengths for just about any shock can be found. Then find mid travel of the shock using compressed lenght and add half the shock travel to find ones close to your measururement between shock mtg points. Also can use extended length and sbtract half the stroke or subtact extended from compressed to find stroke and do the afore mentioned math. Some aftermarket shocks will give a recomended mid lengths usally about + or - a inch or so.

            The adjust able QA1s on he rear are easy to adjust as fronts are a bit of a pain. Fronts, one has to drop the bottom of the shocks and pull the body carefully downward far enough to be able to get to the adjustment knobs. Think the double adjustables are around 250 or so now through summit. Remember though they are rebuildable. Rebuilds cost depends on what needs replaced could run between 40 to 250 to rebuild a pair.
            Soon it will be time for my big brake swap and will be going to coilovers in the front at which point will be able to adjust the fronts about as easly as the rears.
            Good info, but I'm more concerned about what range of stiffness is available. In other words, I know there's a range and that at least some forms of the Qa1 stuff is ultra stiff, but I want to know how soft you can get them. Are they all racecar stiff all the time, or can you get ones that are at least adjustable to more like a police spec?

            85 4 door 351 Civi Crown Victoria - Summer daily driver, sleeper in the making, and wildly inappropriate autocross machine
            160KMs 600cfm holley, shorty headers, 2.5" catted exhaust, 255/295 tires, cop shocks, cop swaybars, underdrive pulley, 2.73L gears.
            waiting for install: 3.27's, Poly bushings, boxed rear arms, 2500 stall converter, ported e7's, etc

            06 Mazda 3 hatch 2.3L 5AT (winter beater that cost more than my summer car)

            Comment


              #66
              tHE ADJUSTABL ONES can go from soft to quite stiff. Un adjustabe shocks are usally listed as soft , firm, medium, heavy.
              They have an online catalog. http://www.qa1.net/ think this still works. They also have a adapter I USE ON MY REAR SHOCKS UPPER MOUNT SO i dont have to cut the shocks off.
              Scars are tatoos of the fearless

              Comment


                #67
                Originally posted by ootdega View Post
                But...there it is. I grabbed it and yanked it around, it's in there solid as can be. Looks exactly like the one you've got, which means it isn't even stock. The bushings are still good too, which means they were replaced, so I was probably right about the collision thing.

                I greatly appreciate the offer, and I would've gladly taken you up on it, had I not been an absolute moron to begin with.
                Glad to hear there's a sway bar there! You're welcome. I guess I'll hold on to it a little longer before getting rid of it.

                Btw, the sway bar in my pic is in fact the stock one. That picture is from before I put in the police front sway bar.

                '78 LTD | '87 Grand Marquis | '89 Crown Vic (RIP) | '91 Grand Marquis (RIP) | '94 Town Car (RIP) | '97 Town Car (RIP)

                Comment


                  #68
                  Originally posted by P72Ford View Post

                  But severeal people have been talking about shock upgrades to accompany spring upgrades. This is essential.

                  If you really want to do the spring upgrade the right way, you need to find some quality shocks that are made for the job. If you're swapping springs and using stock style replacement shocks, you are making a mistake.
                  Completely agree. I ran PI spec KYB gas-a-just with my 925/200 combo and it was ok, but certainly not ideal. Like everything else components need to be matched to work right.
                  2020 F250 - 7.3 4x4 CCSB STX 3.55's - BAKFlip MX4
                  2005 Grand Marquis GS - Marauder sway bars, Marauder exhaust, KYB's
                  2003 Marauder - Trilogy # 8, JLT, kooks, 2.5" exhaust, 4.10's/31 spline, widened rear's, metco's, addco's, ridetech's 415hp/381tq
                  1987 Colony Park - 03+ frame swap, blown Gen II Coyote, 6R80, ridetechs, stainless works, absolute money pit. WIP

                  Comment


                    #69
                    The 1020 Afco's worked well when I WAS RUNNING 1000# springs on the front and variable rate wagon over loads in the rear. I didnt care much with the overload springs though unless there was extra weight in the rear like 60 to 100# to take up the softer part of the rate a bit. Part of the issue with the varible springs in the rear was body roll in the rear with the springs unloaded. Noticing factory shocks were not long enough on the rear think I went with QA1s double adjustable shocks on the rear and dialed them in wasnt too bad. Sure made a lot of sports cars look realy bad .Actualy saw in the rear view mirror from time to time sporty cars loosing control following me around a corner when I WASSNT EVEN trying to drive fast.
                    Scars are tatoos of the fearless

                    Comment


                      #70
                      Originally posted by slack View Post
                      Glad to hear there's a sway bar there! You're welcome. I guess I'll hold on to it a little longer before getting rid of it.

                      Btw, the sway bar in my pic is in fact the stock one. That picture is from before I put in the police front sway bar.
                      ...Huh.

                      That...looks like more than 1 inch though.

                      Well whatever. I'll put the 415 springs in when I do the brake swap, since you need to replace the upper control arms anyway. Might as well do that while I'm up in there.
                      Last edited by ootdega; 03-06-2015, 07:20 AM.
                      89 Grand Marquis GS.

                      Putting it here because I keep forgetting to mention it. It's not very exciting at the moment.

                      Comment


                        #71
                        I don't think you'll regret it, my police suspension easily out-handles the tires...i have 225/70 15, which is stock police size- way too much sidewall. With 17's and some wider tires...that's a different story.
                        -Phil

                        sigpic

                        +1982 Ford LTD-S Police Car. Built 351w, Trickflow 11R 190 Heads, Holley Sniper EFI, RPM Intake+ Hyperspark dizzy, WR-AOD, Full exhaust headers to tails. 3.27 Trac-Lok Rear. Aluminum Police Driveshaft. Speedway Springs+Bilstein Shocks, Intermediate Brakes, HPP Steering Box.

                        +2003 Acura CL Type S 6-speed

                        Comment


                          #72
                          Originally posted by Brown_Muscle View Post
                          I don't think you'll regret it, my police suspension easily out-handles the tires...i have 225/70 15, which is stock police size- way too much sidewall. With 17's and some wider tires...that's a different story.
                          It's too much sidewall for regular old street tires, but that's why I have badass all-terrain Grabbers. All-season truck tires never looked so right on a sedan.
                          89 Grand Marquis GS.

                          Putting it here because I keep forgetting to mention it. It's not very exciting at the moment.

                          Comment


                            #73
                            Tire width has the most to do with handling but load rating is also a factor. A 225/70 tire with a load rating of 1300 lbs isnt going to out handle the same size tire with a load rating of 1800 lbs especally on a heavy vehicle.
                            Scars are tatoos of the fearless

                            Comment


                              #74
                              Originally posted by turbo2256b View Post
                              Tire width has the most to do with handling but load rating is also a factor. A 225/70 tire with a load rating of 1300 lbs isnt going to out handle the same size tire with a load rating of 1800 lbs especally on a heavy vehicle.
                              These are 1764, but that's good to know. Any wider than these and I'll be rubbing on the wheel wells when I turn, though. 245/70/r16 would probably be okay when I do the brakes. That's only 10mm each side.
                              Last edited by ootdega; 03-07-2015, 01:42 PM.
                              89 Grand Marquis GS.

                              Putting it here because I keep forgetting to mention it. It's not very exciting at the moment.

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