Touchy Brakes - not finding any topics on this.

[pantera77]

In my experience, stock box brakes are really touchy.

With that said, my towncar and current winter wagon have really lazy brakes.

[knucklehead0202]

Both my '90s have had really touchy brakes. It seems to become less so as the car warms up. I don't drive my car much or for very long distances so I don't think it's a matter of fade, not real sure what it is honestly. I did stick a caliper in the 1st car, changed both calipers, new rotors, pads, etc, and it was still super-touchy when cold, improving slightly when warmed up. That said, they locked up like a mofo when that dildo turned in front of me and I skidded right into his shittyass explorer. Yes, still bitter.

[DerekTheGreat]

I really invite you guys to drive both our Town Cars. I'm thinking you're all "pedal stabbers" who need to learn the squeeze technique

Ghosty, I'm certainly going to adjust new parts that way. Front wheel drummies are easier to adjust as you can spin and listen for drag & count the number of rotations. Rear drummies though, different story for me. If they've been on there for ages then I use the adjuster. If I'm trying to get them off I try to see about getting a slotted screw driver in there to hold the adjuster arm off the starwheel so I can back off the adjustment. Then if the drums are rusted on the hub a couple hits with a hammer has worked for me. I'm betting that not every case allows access to that adjuster arm..

[His Royal Ghostliness]

Ghosty, I'm certainly going to adjust new parts that way. Front wheel drummies are easier to adjust as you can spin and listen for drag & count the number of rotations. Rear drummies though, different story for me. If they've been on there for ages then I use the adjuster. If I'm trying to get them off I try to see about getting a slotted screw driver in there to hold the adjuster arm off the starwheel so I can back off the adjustment. Then if the drums are rusted on the hub a couple hits with a hammer has worked for me. I'm betting that not every case allows access to that adjuster arm..

All I'm saying is that if they've been there for ages you got all the more reason to take them bitches off and see what's hiding inside. For example, from what I've seen average life of a parts store wheel cylinder is about 2 years - afterwards at least one piston inside it seizes up, so while it doesn't leak and the pedal builds up pressure fine the brake is not operating at full capacity. Also leaky axle seals if caught on time do not require brake shoe replacement, not so much the case if the shoes get all soaked with the gear oil. The fact that you know how to adjust the brakes already puts you head of most vehicle owners these days, it just makes sense to go all the way and make sure all is well and nothing nasty is lurking inside waiting to pounce, ya know?

[sly]

I really invite you guys to drive both our Town Cars. I'm thinking you're all "pedal stabbers" who need to learn the squeeze technique

Kinda have to pedal stab my beater off the line. It likes to bog if you feather it from a stop. Need to give it at least quarter throttle to keep it from falling on it's face. No, I'm not going to fix that. The 93 you can feather no issue.

[DerekTheGreat]

All I'm saying is that if they've been there for ages you got all the more reason to take them bitches off and see what's hiding inside. For example, from what I've seen average life of a parts store wheel cylinder is about 2 years - afterwards at least one piston inside it seizes up, so while it doesn't leak and the pedal builds up pressure fine the brake is not operating at full capacity. Also leaky axle seals if caught on time do not require brake shoe replacement, not so much the case if the shoes get all soaked with the gear oil. The fact that you know how to adjust the brakes already puts you head of most vehicle owners these days, it just makes sense to go all the way and make sure all is well and nothing nasty is lurking inside waiting to pounce, ya know?

It has been my experience that replacement parts sure aren't up to the snuff OEM stuff was/is. Sad really. So far so good with the brake crap I did to Ashley's car although all this talk about drum brakes has me wanting to pop her rears apart. They've got to be out of adjustment.. Drove it yesterday and she's got more brake travel than I do. Cool thing is I've already got all new rear brake bits waiting on the shelf! Thought I was going to need them for my own car but it turns out my stuff is just fine. The axle seals in our GMC F'd off one day and stupid me took at least a month to realize the fronts were doing all the work and thus find the leak... I farmed that job out though, they didn't replace the pads but it sure stopped better haha. At what point is there no return to a soaked brake pad?? I imagine they just hosed the shoes off with brake clean...

Kinda have to pedal stab my beater off the line. It likes to bog if you feather it from a stop. Need to give it at least quarter throttle to keep it from falling on it's face. No, I'm not going to fix that. The 93 you can feather no issue.

We're talking about the brakes here lol. You bring up an interesting topic though. Seems every speed density Ford I've driven has a bit of a stumble off idle/part throttle application. It's very much like a carb'd car with not enough accelerator pump shot. Only sensor I haven't dicked with on my car would be the TPS, and I know the ears get worn over time and maybe that's it- the computer isn't seeing the voltage it expects and so stumbly stumbly.

[longroof87]

Touchy Brakes - not finding any topics on this.

See, I have opposite problem with my '87 Colony Park. You press the pedal and feel an initial grab but then nothing until half travel and then you feel another grab and actually notice slowing down. But, I think that could be down to poor adjustment on the rear drums.

I have trouble adjust the drums because I have an LSD and I cannot spin the drum to test drag easily. It spins but with great resistance. I had an open diff f150 and had much better luck because when I spin the one side, the tire goes the opposite way. I think it's just because I have an LSD and I'm not sure how to work with that.

[adam.w.ackerman]

Put the trans neutral or drop the drive shaft at the axle.


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[sly]

oh right... brakes... yeah... my beater's brakes are pretty digital. Once they start grabbing, they go to full lock up within an inch or so. You gotta play in that area. The aero on the other hand has much more room to play and get good pedal feel. Booster swap anyone?

[adam.w.ackerman]

oh right... brakes... yeah... my beater's brakes are pretty digital. Once they start grabbing, they go to full lock up within an inch or so. You gotta play in that area. The aero on the other hand has much more room to play and get good pedal feel. Booster swap anyone?

I am wondering about the booster in mine too...

[BigMerc96]

I've got a similar problem but backwards I guess. My Aero has great brakes, well, they feel great anyway, nice and linear feeling and predictable. My whale feels incredibly touchy in comparison. The whale has better brakes, there is no question it has more stopping power, I just don't like how they feel. The whale's brakes are rather neglected, it still has all 4 original rotors and I'd bet the fluid has never been flushed, as where the Aero has basically all new everything except for the booster, master cylinder, and rear calipers. I'm hoping a overhaul of the hydraulic system will at least give me a more direct feel, now its not spongy but it feels softer than I'd like.

[gadget73]

Kinda have to pedal stab my beater off the line. It likes to bog if you feather it from a stop. Need to give it at least quarter throttle to keep it from falling on it's face. No, I'm not going to fix that. The 93 you can feather no issue.

Pull the cap off the EGR regulator and shoot some WD40 down the tube. Mine did this for a long time, finally traced it to a sticky EGR regulator that was opening the valve 100% off-idle. A snort of oil in the regulator fixed it. If it does nothing, it cost you the same



I actually half wonder if its not the booster thats the difference. A 92+ booster can be mated up to a box master cylinder with no particular effort. They're dual diaphragm too, so more assist overall but the later ones do seem less touchy. Only people I can think of of who have done booster swaps have done it as part of a big brake swap, but maybe someone has done a 5 speed conversion with stock brakes. The later booster is used to clear the clutch cable. If there was an improvement in brake feel, that would be your answer.

[longroof87]

Put the trans neutral or drop the drive shaft at the axle.


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I will do that once the weather warms up and I can take the car off the trickle charger for good, thanks for the tip! I need to change the u-joints anyways.

[DerekTheGreat]

Pull the cap off the EGR regulator and shoot some WD40 down the tube. Mine did this for a long time, finally traced it to a sticky EGR regulator that was opening the valve 100% off-idle. A snort of oil in the regulator fixed it. If it does nothing, it cost you the same



I actually half wonder if its not the booster thats the difference. A 92+ booster can be mated up to a box master cylinder with no particular effort. They're dual diaphragm too, so more assist overall but the later ones do seem less touchy. Only people I can think of of who have done booster swaps have done it as part of a big brake swap, but maybe someone has done a 5 speed conversion with stock brakes. The later booster is used to clear the clutch cable. If there was an improvement in brake feel, that would be your answer.

I was getting some weird code and that did the trick. Haven't seen the code since but still have a stumbly stumbly occasionally. Mostly when cold and when it does it, it does it for about a half second.

So this later booster, is it a direct swap or will new brake lines have to be bent & flared?

[sly]

The booster is the big round can the master cylinder mounts to. You may need to massage the lines currently there to bend without kinking as it'll push the MC forward about 3-4 inches, but if you get a non-abs booster, it's a direct bolt on. two nuts to remove the MC and 4 nuts from under the dash at the firewall.