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Brake Booster Going South + Interchange

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    #16
    So this is what I’m seeing at work. The booster I got was for a ‘92 car; no ABS. However, it is shown as compatible with ABS/Non-ABS, non-Police boosters for ‘95-‘00 cars.

    The difference between the police and non-police unit is only the diaphragm diameter. Police is 8.82in/224.03mm and non-police is 8.75in/222.25mm.

    I’m not sure if the extra two millimeters is really worth the difference to swap the booster I got with the police booster.

    Edit: The difference between the ‘92-‘94 Non-ABS booster and the ABS booster is the M/C stud size. The non-ABS unit uses standard threads shared with the earlier cars. The ABS boosters use metric threads. However, ‘95-‘00 cars use the same booster regardless if they have ABS or not since all boosters for those years use standard threads.

    Nitty gritty of everything:
    ‘92-‘94 (‘90-‘94 TC) Non-ABS + ‘95-‘00 Non-Police Boosters are interchangeable as they are they same. Both use standard threads on the studs and have a 222.25mm diaphragm diameter.
    ‘92-94 (‘91-‘94 TC) ABS boosters are unique to themselves. They use metric threads on the studs and have a 222.25mm diaphragm.
    ‘95-‘00 Police boosters are unique to themselves. They use standard threads and have a 224.03mm diaphragm.

    Sorry for the aimless information in my post, I’m at work and just trying to get the informational differences.
    Last edited by Kodachrome Wolf; 03-09-2018, 10:12 PM.


    My Cars:
    -1964 Comet 202 (116K Miles) - Long Term Project
    -1986 Dodge D-150 Royale SE (112K Miles) - Slowly Getting Put Back Together
    -1987 Grand Marquis Colony Park LS (325K Miles) - April 2017 + September 2019 POTM Winner
    -1997 Grand Marquis LS (240K Miles) - The Daily Workhorse & March 2015 + January 2019 POTM Winner

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      #17
      244.3 square inches vs 240.4 square inches. Assuming vacuum pressure of 15 inches, (7.3 psi) thats 1783 lbs of force vs 1755 lbs. All in all, not enough to fuss over.
      86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
      5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

      91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

      1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

      Originally posted by phayzer5
      I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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        #18
        Ok so i'm going to threadjack a bit too! Mostly when cold, i get some idle surge when braking. Think this is a booster issue? The brakes are also super-touchy and the surging only exacerbates this. Reckon swapping the booster may help with this? M/C on the car looks to have been replaced in recent history but the booster, who knows....

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          #19
          possible. sounds like the seal on the plunger may be a little loose when cold and seal up when warmed up.

          Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
          rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
          Originally posted by gadget73
          ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
          Originally posted by dmccaig
          Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

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            #20
            Originally posted by 87gtVIC View Post
            can you take a couple pictures from under the dash (booster nut area) and post them up please?
            I really could not get an adequate angle up under there for photos. This is the best one I got.


            Getting the old booster out was only challenging because of how large it is and the fact all the harnesses conveniently run across the booster. Swinging the cruise control unit out of the way and disconnecting a few vacuum lines aid in removal. The master cylinder doesn't need to be undone from the lines unless you're replacing it and I was able to adjust it forwards on the lines to clear the booster. It took some persuasion to wrangle that thing out from the harnesses and get it at the right angle to get it to clear since the wiper motor blocks it from coming straight out.

            Failing booster:


            Installation is easier than removal as far as fitment goes given the considerably smaller diameter. It took a moment to get the studs to slide through, but nothing had to be modified beyond just having the master cylinder a little farther forwards. Clearance with the air box lid and old style master cylinder is really tight, but it fits fine.





            In the end, the brake pedal feels a lot better a bit more confidence inspiring. Originally it was incredibly firm and didn't have a lot of travel and brakes felt kind of grabby. Now when applying the brakes normally there's modest travel with good pedal feel and stopping power feels fine. Immediately applying the brakes in a hard braking application results in a very firm pedal with short travel, but plenty of braking effort and good pedal feel.

            Personally, if someone has to do a booster job on car with the earlier booster, using the later one wouldn't be a bad idea given it's easier to install with the smaller size, parts availability is still good, and even used it wouldn't be hard to get the right one given you have such a large year range to work with. However, I wouldn't just go yanking out an old style booster if it's still good since it's not the nicest thing to get out.


            My Cars:
            -1964 Comet 202 (116K Miles) - Long Term Project
            -1986 Dodge D-150 Royale SE (112K Miles) - Slowly Getting Put Back Together
            -1987 Grand Marquis Colony Park LS (325K Miles) - April 2017 + September 2019 POTM Winner
            -1997 Grand Marquis LS (240K Miles) - The Daily Workhorse & March 2015 + January 2019 POTM Winner

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              #21
              Curious as to how much the booster cost? Was there a core charge? TIA, WagonMan
              89 Colony Park
              90 Colony Park
              70 HEMI Daytona Convertible

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                #22
                Originally posted by WagonMan View Post
                Curious as to how much the booster cost? Was there a core charge? TIA, WagonMan
                I work at a parts store, so I get some rather large discounts on parts. As far as this one went, it was $59.36 plus a $19.00 core charge. FWIW, that's rather close to some of the prices you'll see online (e.g. RockAuto), but I specifically went through work because lifetime warranties are nice.

                Regular retail at my location for that one is $89.99 + $19.00 core charge.


                My Cars:
                -1964 Comet 202 (116K Miles) - Long Term Project
                -1986 Dodge D-150 Royale SE (112K Miles) - Slowly Getting Put Back Together
                -1987 Grand Marquis Colony Park LS (325K Miles) - April 2017 + September 2019 POTM Winner
                -1997 Grand Marquis LS (240K Miles) - The Daily Workhorse & March 2015 + January 2019 POTM Winner

                Comment


                  #23
                  Nice work. Amazing how much room it opens up in the bay.


                  Quite impressed with the photo you got.
                  ~David~

                  My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
                  My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

                  Originally posted by ootdega
                  My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."

                  Originally posted by DerekTheGreat
                  But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

                  Originally posted by gadget73
                  my car starts and it has AC. Yours doesn't start and it has no AC. Seems obvious to me.




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                    #24
                    that's real cool you could do that. I hope i never have to do that on mine!
                    96 MGM
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                    Cruisin up and down the road...

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