Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Frankenstein T-5 Waggin' Chronicle (vast doesnt do it)

Collapse
This is a sticky topic.
X
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Originally posted by Freshmeat
    should I scrape the gasket surfaces before assembly? I don't imagine it'd cause exhaust leaks, but I also haven't done this in two years...
    Any and all sealing surfaces should be clean prior to installing new gaskets. Doesn't take much time and better to be safe than sorry.


    And the instances I've seen with snapped head bolts were a 1986 Towncar and I believe a 1990 Mark VII. Pre-TTY bolts. That said, I'm using old bolts in my motor and its OK. I guess it depends on what happens. If the motor is overheated or otherwise majorly stressed I guess the bolts take a beating and can break. Its probably not the most common thing so I guess you're ok.
    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Originally posted by phayzer5
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

    Comment


      Looks like I'm not swapping the valve stem seals. The ones that came in the kit are entirely different from anything on the cylinder head, so I'm gonna keep the old ones and hope for the best. Anyone have any arguments? By the time you respond, it'll probably be too late, but respond anyway. Please. God knows I'll be checking this every thirty seconds to see if anyone said something.
      My only fear is that the engine degreaser compromised the seals on the heads.
      2011 Mustang GT Premium, MT82, Kona/Saddle, HIDs, 3.73s, 19s, hood/side stripes, UPR 1.5" springs with adjustable panhard bar, and UMI solid LCAs and relocation brackets.
      1992 Explorer Eddie Bauer, slight lift, 34s, and A/C...
      1979 Bronco Custom, 351M/C6/NP205, 4" lift, 35s, lots of fender trimming.

      Comment


        good luck on starting your engine mang..........mine won't start after 3 1/2 months of work on the HO conversion.
        1989 Lincoln Town Car - "Anabelle" - Original block, .030 over with SpeedPro pistons, rods fitted with ARP hardware, FRPP +volume oil pump, GT-40 3bar heads, Crane 1.72 rockers, 89' Fox cam, 93' Cobra lower intake, Explorer upper and 65mm TB, 93' Lightning EGR spacer, K&N intake kit from a 4.0L Ranger, 19lb/hr injectors w/ 87 Mark VII ECM, cat/smog deletes, Big Brake conversion, 3.55 K-Code Trac-Lok/Disc brake rear axle, CVPI LCA's w/1" sway bar in rear, wagon front sway bar, BBK 2.5" off-road H-Pipe, Flowmaster super 40s, HPP wheels, 3G alternator w/LMR.com wiring kit, gear reduction starter conversion, Best 1/4 time: 16.0 @ 85mph.

        Comment


          uuh if you soaked your entire heads in degreaser like I did.....the seals will be shot and they will smoke. sorry to tell you that man but the degreaser is hard on the seals and when they dry they will crack and fail. Best to get them changed for the measley $6-$8 bucks per at a machine shop.
          1989 Lincoln Town Car - "Anabelle" - Original block, .030 over with SpeedPro pistons, rods fitted with ARP hardware, FRPP +volume oil pump, GT-40 3bar heads, Crane 1.72 rockers, 89' Fox cam, 93' Cobra lower intake, Explorer upper and 65mm TB, 93' Lightning EGR spacer, K&N intake kit from a 4.0L Ranger, 19lb/hr injectors w/ 87 Mark VII ECM, cat/smog deletes, Big Brake conversion, 3.55 K-Code Trac-Lok/Disc brake rear axle, CVPI LCA's w/1" sway bar in rear, wagon front sway bar, BBK 2.5" off-road H-Pipe, Flowmaster super 40s, HPP wheels, 3G alternator w/LMR.com wiring kit, gear reduction starter conversion, Best 1/4 time: 16.0 @ 85mph.

          Comment


            I'm broke.
            $6-8 x 16 seals = $96-128.
            I didn't soak the heads in degreaser- I sprayed them, let them sit for a few minutes, then blasted the Hell out of them with a high-pressure water hose. They've been sitting up for two days and haven't cracked/shown signs of anything bad...
            2011 Mustang GT Premium, MT82, Kona/Saddle, HIDs, 3.73s, 19s, hood/side stripes, UPR 1.5" springs with adjustable panhard bar, and UMI solid LCAs and relocation brackets.
            1992 Explorer Eddie Bauer, slight lift, 34s, and A/C...
            1979 Bronco Custom, 351M/C6/NP205, 4" lift, 35s, lots of fender trimming.

            Comment


              ahh good you didn't drown them like I did, they should be ok then.
              1989 Lincoln Town Car - "Anabelle" - Original block, .030 over with SpeedPro pistons, rods fitted with ARP hardware, FRPP +volume oil pump, GT-40 3bar heads, Crane 1.72 rockers, 89' Fox cam, 93' Cobra lower intake, Explorer upper and 65mm TB, 93' Lightning EGR spacer, K&N intake kit from a 4.0L Ranger, 19lb/hr injectors w/ 87 Mark VII ECM, cat/smog deletes, Big Brake conversion, 3.55 K-Code Trac-Lok/Disc brake rear axle, CVPI LCA's w/1" sway bar in rear, wagon front sway bar, BBK 2.5" off-road H-Pipe, Flowmaster super 40s, HPP wheels, 3G alternator w/LMR.com wiring kit, gear reduction starter conversion, Best 1/4 time: 16.0 @ 85mph.

              Comment


                To be honest with you, I'm gonna just do them. I hope to be back inside there in a couple of months with 1.7 RRs and some Comp Cams springs. I can re-inspect at that point.
                No one would notice smoking exhaust around here, anyway- it's so humid a brand new BMW would smoke on a regular basis.
                2011 Mustang GT Premium, MT82, Kona/Saddle, HIDs, 3.73s, 19s, hood/side stripes, UPR 1.5" springs with adjustable panhard bar, and UMI solid LCAs and relocation brackets.
                1992 Explorer Eddie Bauer, slight lift, 34s, and A/C...
                1979 Bronco Custom, 351M/C6/NP205, 4" lift, 35s, lots of fender trimming.

                Comment


                  When deleting the smog pump, do I keep the tensioner or find a way to make the A/C a tensioner? What belt do I use?
                  2011 Mustang GT Premium, MT82, Kona/Saddle, HIDs, 3.73s, 19s, hood/side stripes, UPR 1.5" springs with adjustable panhard bar, and UMI solid LCAs and relocation brackets.
                  1992 Explorer Eddie Bauer, slight lift, 34s, and A/C...
                  1979 Bronco Custom, 351M/C6/NP205, 4" lift, 35s, lots of fender trimming.

                  Comment


                    You keep the tensioner, and if you wanna go fancy you can cut the plate a little so it doesn't look like you lost the smog pump in the last pot-hole. Belt was 560 I think, better off to just measure it yourself.

                    Comment


                      Yesterday was very productive.

                      Here is my original injector next to the Explorer injector... the grey one is actually a lot larger... I guess they found a better design for the internals that allowed them to be smaller. The new injectors are the four-hole, but I couldn't get a good picture of it. Sorry, guys.


                      Here's the current progress. The header and valve covers are mocked up, just because I wanted to see how they look. I'll be installing the header momentarily, but I need to find some bolts that are 1/2" - 3/4" longer for the valve covers since they're aluminum, not stamped steel.

                      What do you think?
                      2011 Mustang GT Premium, MT82, Kona/Saddle, HIDs, 3.73s, 19s, hood/side stripes, UPR 1.5" springs with adjustable panhard bar, and UMI solid LCAs and relocation brackets.
                      1992 Explorer Eddie Bauer, slight lift, 34s, and A/C...
                      1979 Bronco Custom, 351M/C6/NP205, 4" lift, 35s, lots of fender trimming.

                      Comment


                        Have you tried plugging those new injectors into the stock harness? my understanding is the connectors are different.


                        ~ 88grandmarq

                        Comment


                          Sweet looking

                          You painted inside the oil filter boss?? I always put a Fram filter on for painting
                          2004 Marauder M79 90K miles Jmod!! 14.85 @95.63
                          2004 Crown Vic LX 135K Silver Birch Light flint leather FMX1 04 P-71 PCM swap 04 P-71 Airbox and Zip tube "$100 MZT" 01 F-250 70 MM TB 21mm swaybar wood steering wheel BH headlight relay

                          Comment


                            Originally posted by Anonymous
                            Have you tried plugging those new injectors into the stock harness? my understanding is the connectors are different.
                            You are correct. The difference can plainly be seen.

                            Comment


                              Originally posted by Freshmeat
                              What do you think?

                              Need more solvent and a rag...

                              Comment


                                If you have the Exploder harness I suppose you could change the plugs to work with the new injectors....

                                Are those new new or new to you?
                                86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                                5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                                91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                                1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                                Originally posted by phayzer5
                                I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                                Comment

                                Working...
                                X