Alright! My aod rebuild at home got a cool boost: local tranny shop, single-owner run, is going to help me out. He already lent me the books, and we're supposed to tear apart my aod core this Thursday. Ordering parts tomorrow! Sweet! I got my 1990 aod core last week.
Now.... KISS, or try for the wide ratio swap? Kinda need to decide this BEFORE ordering a rebuild kit.
Excerpts and links below, but, it seems that the 4r70w is a direct swap? Just get one of those, and pull out, according to one article, these parts:
Table 1
DOUBLE RACED REAR CASE BEARING F3LY-7F242-A
4R70W OUTPUT HUB 5.16" OD
4R70W RING GEAR 88 TEETH F3AZ-7A153-A
DOUBLE RACED DIRECT DRUM TO HUB BEARING F1AZ-FF240-AA
STAMPED DIRECT DRUM F2AZ-7F283-B
4R70W PLANET F2AZ-7A398-A
4R70W SUN GEAR 31 TEETH F3LY-7F242-A
4R70W SUN TO SHELL BEARING 1.457" OD
4R70W SUN GEAR SHELL 38 TEETH
STAMPED STEEL REVERSE DRUM
....And they pop right into the AOD housing, no mods required?
Now is the stock aod valve body OK? It was suggested that maybe a shift kit would be advisable.
If I do this, I want a 4r70w rebuild kit of course, right?
Any other problems i might create for myself?
...and while I'm at it, maybe just get a new torque converter, stock? I've got an HO engine with gt40 heads, but an explorer cam for low end torque. Not racing it. So I'm thinking stock, low stall speed, is best for getting my car's 2 ton ass out of its own way?
Any other basic improvements you'd order?
I'm still wondering if I ought to do a bone stock aod rebuild, no shift kit, no nothing, and get something that works. Don't want to jeopardize the project with too many complications.
Please let me know your advice!
-bernard
on a related note, I've been thinking about rear gears, 3.55 or 3.73. Where does limited slip come in handy?
Courtesy the archives I found these:
And the most relevant excerpts:
WIDE RATIO AOD
The AOD and AODE share the same gear set with
(Ratio 1=2.40, 2=1.47, 3=1.00, 4=0.67) which is
considered “even spaced” where the AODE-W/4R70W
has “wide ratio” gearing (Ratio 1=2.84, 2=1.55, 3= .00
4=.70). Wide ratio gearing has many advantages, mostly
Helping to accelerate heavy or underpowered vehicles,
It is also a strong gearset both in design and function with
a deeper 1
st
gear more torque is transferred to the output
shaft. Note that the all wide ratio geared trans should
utilize a special hardened output shaft found in the
4R70W.
A popular swap is to install the wide ratio gearing from the 4R70W into the AOD. This task can be simple or painstaking both in
assembly and valve body calibration. As mentioned, the easiest way to perform the swap is to find a decent 4R70w core and swap
everything needed into the AOD – bearings and all. I have detail the items needed in Table 1.
Before performing the swap you should also consider your VB choice. The AOD valve body is HYDROLICALY DESIGNED to shift
the even spaced gear set does a terrible of shifting the wide ratio gear set. Uncalibrated vb’s will have a LONG first gear (due to rpm
needed to tell gov to shift) and the 2-3 shift will hold just a tad longer than before at part throttle, however the 2-3 becomes to short
due to the RPM you had to gain just to get the 1-2 shift. A manual vb or custom calibrated vb is the best suggestion to control this
gear set in a more controlled manner. If you are determined to tinker with it yourself, start with the lowest stall governor and epoxy
mod (mentioned later in this article) and work up from there.
Now.... KISS, or try for the wide ratio swap? Kinda need to decide this BEFORE ordering a rebuild kit.
Excerpts and links below, but, it seems that the 4r70w is a direct swap? Just get one of those, and pull out, according to one article, these parts:
Table 1
DOUBLE RACED REAR CASE BEARING F3LY-7F242-A
4R70W OUTPUT HUB 5.16" OD
4R70W RING GEAR 88 TEETH F3AZ-7A153-A
DOUBLE RACED DIRECT DRUM TO HUB BEARING F1AZ-FF240-AA
STAMPED DIRECT DRUM F2AZ-7F283-B
4R70W PLANET F2AZ-7A398-A
4R70W SUN GEAR 31 TEETH F3LY-7F242-A
4R70W SUN TO SHELL BEARING 1.457" OD
4R70W SUN GEAR SHELL 38 TEETH
STAMPED STEEL REVERSE DRUM
....And they pop right into the AOD housing, no mods required?
Now is the stock aod valve body OK? It was suggested that maybe a shift kit would be advisable.
If I do this, I want a 4r70w rebuild kit of course, right?
Any other problems i might create for myself?
...and while I'm at it, maybe just get a new torque converter, stock? I've got an HO engine with gt40 heads, but an explorer cam for low end torque. Not racing it. So I'm thinking stock, low stall speed, is best for getting my car's 2 ton ass out of its own way?
Any other basic improvements you'd order?
I'm still wondering if I ought to do a bone stock aod rebuild, no shift kit, no nothing, and get something that works. Don't want to jeopardize the project with too many complications.
Please let me know your advice!
-bernard
on a related note, I've been thinking about rear gears, 3.55 or 3.73. Where does limited slip come in handy?
Courtesy the archives I found these:
And the most relevant excerpts:
WIDE RATIO AOD
The AOD and AODE share the same gear set with
(Ratio 1=2.40, 2=1.47, 3=1.00, 4=0.67) which is
considered “even spaced” where the AODE-W/4R70W
has “wide ratio” gearing (Ratio 1=2.84, 2=1.55, 3= .00
4=.70). Wide ratio gearing has many advantages, mostly
Helping to accelerate heavy or underpowered vehicles,
It is also a strong gearset both in design and function with
a deeper 1
st
gear more torque is transferred to the output
shaft. Note that the all wide ratio geared trans should
utilize a special hardened output shaft found in the
4R70W.
A popular swap is to install the wide ratio gearing from the 4R70W into the AOD. This task can be simple or painstaking both in
assembly and valve body calibration. As mentioned, the easiest way to perform the swap is to find a decent 4R70w core and swap
everything needed into the AOD – bearings and all. I have detail the items needed in Table 1.
Before performing the swap you should also consider your VB choice. The AOD valve body is HYDROLICALY DESIGNED to shift
the even spaced gear set does a terrible of shifting the wide ratio gear set. Uncalibrated vb’s will have a LONG first gear (due to rpm
needed to tell gov to shift) and the 2-3 shift will hold just a tad longer than before at part throttle, however the 2-3 becomes to short
due to the RPM you had to gain just to get the 1-2 shift. A manual vb or custom calibrated vb is the best suggestion to control this
gear set in a more controlled manner. If you are determined to tinker with it yourself, start with the lowest stall governor and epoxy
mod (mentioned later in this article) and work up from there.
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