I have a custom 10" Dirty Dogg 3200-3600 stall NLU converter in my car.
The converter is everything when it comes to performance in an automatic car.
I believe I paid $700 for mine, but its well worth it. I just have a P headed 304, HO cam installed straight up, 1.7s, and a full exhaust, with the 3.73s. If I foot brake it to 2500, let the brake up and mash it, it flashes to 3200 or so and the tires light right off.
You don't need to change the input shaft to go NLU. Going lock up with alot of power will knock the input shaft out of it as soon as it shifts in drive.
I went with a big cooler for any extra heat.
I suspect that in a few months when I get to installing the heads and cam, I may need to have this converter re-stalled.
Camshaft, vehicle weight, gear ratio, engine size, and intended use all weigh heavy when choosing a converter.
And, just cause it has a converter doesn't mean its a slush box at low speeds.
The converter is everything when it comes to performance in an automatic car.
I believe I paid $700 for mine, but its well worth it. I just have a P headed 304, HO cam installed straight up, 1.7s, and a full exhaust, with the 3.73s. If I foot brake it to 2500, let the brake up and mash it, it flashes to 3200 or so and the tires light right off.
You don't need to change the input shaft to go NLU. Going lock up with alot of power will knock the input shaft out of it as soon as it shifts in drive.
I went with a big cooler for any extra heat.
I suspect that in a few months when I get to installing the heads and cam, I may need to have this converter re-stalled.
Camshaft, vehicle weight, gear ratio, engine size, and intended use all weigh heavy when choosing a converter.
And, just cause it has a converter doesn't mean its a slush box at low speeds.
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