Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Both front outer keyed door locks broken, driver's actuator seized

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Both front outer keyed door locks broken, driver's actuator seized

    So it finally happened... The passenger's side outer door lock has been broken for years, if you put the key in it just spins and doesn't do anything. The driver's side broke and does the same thing after the door lock actuator seized up and now I can barely get into the car (would be SOL without the electronic key pad!) Soo time to fix.

    Found this actuator on eBay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-CROWN-V...EdU3Ug&vxp=mtr

    saw when I searched an older thread from ~2013 about a guy selling new OEM ford actuators out of Florida, as this seller is too out of FL I was hoping to confirm this is the right one before buying it. I have the door panel apart and it looks close.

    The other question is how to fix the keyed locks, I see where the plastic piece broke that clips to the metal rod. If I can't buy the Dorman plastic clip and repair the locks I'm going to try to find a 2 piece set with keys. Any advice would be sweet I know everyone's must be starting to do this because these cars are getting old, and sorry if this is old news also. Thanks y'all!
    Last edited by 89LincolnTWNcar; 10-25-2015, 09:05 PM.
    1989 Lincoln Town Car - "Anabelle" - Original block, .030 over with SpeedPro pistons, rods fitted with ARP hardware, FRPP +volume oil pump, GT-40 3bar heads, Crane 1.72 rockers, 89' Fox cam, 93' Cobra lower intake, Explorer upper and 65mm TB, 93' Lightning EGR spacer, K&N intake kit from a 4.0L Ranger, 19lb/hr injectors w/ 87 Mark VII ECM, cat/smog deletes, Big Brake conversion, 3.55 K-Code Trac-Lok/Disc brake rear axle, CVPI LCA's w/1" sway bar in rear, wagon front sway bar, BBK 2.5" off-road H-Pipe, Flowmaster super 40s, HPP wheels, 3G alternator w/LMR.com wiring kit, gear reduction starter conversion, Best 1/4 time: 16.0 @ 85mph.

    #2
    That's a pretty cheap price. There is another Ebay seller out of Florida. He is located in Deerfield Beach, Florida but his usually go for about $50. You may also have to replace the plastic "holder" the end of the rod goes into. Dorman has them but I think the Ford dealer ones are better. At least I remember that when Bobby installed a couple on his '87 GM.

    P.S. The other guy is called "captautoparts1".

    Comment


      #3
      Thanks a lot for the help!
      1989 Lincoln Town Car - "Anabelle" - Original block, .030 over with SpeedPro pistons, rods fitted with ARP hardware, FRPP +volume oil pump, GT-40 3bar heads, Crane 1.72 rockers, 89' Fox cam, 93' Cobra lower intake, Explorer upper and 65mm TB, 93' Lightning EGR spacer, K&N intake kit from a 4.0L Ranger, 19lb/hr injectors w/ 87 Mark VII ECM, cat/smog deletes, Big Brake conversion, 3.55 K-Code Trac-Lok/Disc brake rear axle, CVPI LCA's w/1" sway bar in rear, wagon front sway bar, BBK 2.5" off-road H-Pipe, Flowmaster super 40s, HPP wheels, 3G alternator w/LMR.com wiring kit, gear reduction starter conversion, Best 1/4 time: 16.0 @ 85mph.

      Comment


        #4
        Click image for larger version

Name:	image.jpeg
Views:	1
Size:	1.94 MB
ID:	1278375

        here is a picture of the driver's door lock actuator I just pulled out of my Lincoln. Seems to look identical to the one for sale on eBay. This one was already broken out of its holder, it lasted 26 years though!

        The OEM part number off it is E9VB-5426594-AA

        The other thing I just bought is this matching ignition switch and door lock set: http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-OEM-Igni...FV3Ocr&vxp=mtr
        This will fix the two broken door key locks and the igniton switch key shroud that is loose and spins 180* freely that I broke some time back. I keep breaking stuff on this car... My old Toyota's don't break nearly this much, but they rust out a hella lot quicker.

        edit # 2546 I found the exact door lock actuator part number on ebay from the same seller: djd16 http://www.ebay.com/itm/400962508028# and bought it for $24.95. Hope all this stuff fits and fixes all my issues once and for all.
        Last edited by 89LincolnTWNcar; 10-25-2015, 10:16 PM.
        1989 Lincoln Town Car - "Anabelle" - Original block, .030 over with SpeedPro pistons, rods fitted with ARP hardware, FRPP +volume oil pump, GT-40 3bar heads, Crane 1.72 rockers, 89' Fox cam, 93' Cobra lower intake, Explorer upper and 65mm TB, 93' Lightning EGR spacer, K&N intake kit from a 4.0L Ranger, 19lb/hr injectors w/ 87 Mark VII ECM, cat/smog deletes, Big Brake conversion, 3.55 K-Code Trac-Lok/Disc brake rear axle, CVPI LCA's w/1" sway bar in rear, wagon front sway bar, BBK 2.5" off-road H-Pipe, Flowmaster super 40s, HPP wheels, 3G alternator w/LMR.com wiring kit, gear reduction starter conversion, Best 1/4 time: 16.0 @ 85mph.

        Comment


          #5
          I've fixed the key locks before using a donor cylinder for the plastic bit. Would be nice if you can get those new, old plastic sucks. Only reason I bothered is because I hate mismatched locks. I pulled a complete set out of a junkyard car that came with proper Lincoln keys plus a generic spare. One of those plastic bits broke at some point, so I fixed it rather than dealing with re-keying stuff.

          Ford have too much plastic, and old plastic sucks balls.
          86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
          5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

          91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

          1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

          Originally posted by phayzer5
          I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by gadget73 View Post
            I've fixed the key locks before using a donor cylinder for the plastic bit. Would be nice if you can get those new, old plastic sucks. Only reason I bothered is because I hate mismatched locks. I pulled a complete set out of a junkyard car that came with proper Lincoln keys plus a generic spare. One of those plastic bits broke at some point, so I fixed it rather than dealing with re-keying stuff.

            Ford have too much plastic, and old plastic sucks balls.
            old plastic most definitely sucks balls. And rivets... how do they even work?
            1989 Lincoln Town Car - "Anabelle" - Original block, .030 over with SpeedPro pistons, rods fitted with ARP hardware, FRPP +volume oil pump, GT-40 3bar heads, Crane 1.72 rockers, 89' Fox cam, 93' Cobra lower intake, Explorer upper and 65mm TB, 93' Lightning EGR spacer, K&N intake kit from a 4.0L Ranger, 19lb/hr injectors w/ 87 Mark VII ECM, cat/smog deletes, Big Brake conversion, 3.55 K-Code Trac-Lok/Disc brake rear axle, CVPI LCA's w/1" sway bar in rear, wagon front sway bar, BBK 2.5" off-road H-Pipe, Flowmaster super 40s, HPP wheels, 3G alternator w/LMR.com wiring kit, gear reduction starter conversion, Best 1/4 time: 16.0 @ 85mph.

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by 89LincolnTWNcar View Post
              old plastic most definitely sucks balls. And rivets... how do they even work?
              Have to drill them out and then either re-rivet or use a bolt/nut setup.

              Comment

              Working...
              X