I know my lincoln has had 3 alternators and 1 caught on fire, lol. This is all before I got the car though. What is a good alternator to upgrade while I'm doing my electric fan upgrade?
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good alternator to upgrade to
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good alternator to upgrade to
1989 Lincoln Town Car - "Anabelle" - Original block, .030 over with SpeedPro pistons, rods fitted with ARP hardware, FRPP +volume oil pump, GT-40 3bar heads, Crane 1.72 rockers, 89' Fox cam, 93' Cobra lower intake, Explorer upper and 65mm TB, 93' Lightning EGR spacer, K&N intake kit from a 4.0L Ranger, 19lb/hr injectors w/ 87 Mark VII ECM, cat/smog deletes, Big Brake conversion, 3.55 K-Code Trac-Lok/Disc brake rear axle, CVPI LCA's w/1" sway bar in rear, wagon front sway bar, BBK 2.5" off-road H-Pipe, Flowmaster super 40s, HPP wheels, 3G alternator w/LMR.com wiring kit, gear reduction starter conversion, Best 1/4 time: 16.0 @ 85mph.Tags: None
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yup, what he said. Also, pull apart that harness from the alternator to the fender, and see if those wires aren't melted. Lots of them fry under the split loom tube.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
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i'm gonna start trashing all factory altenator harnesses........most are in horrid shape
1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)
please be patient, rebuilding an empire!
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I might remove mine too and just replace that fuse block with a 150 amp breaker. It would also clean up the wiring a little bit, which I sure do need. The spaghetti looks pretty crappy.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
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That 3G alternator can also be found in both 3.0 and 3.8 Turuses, but they both come in small and large frame setup depending on year of production. Look for a small-frame 3G alternator, it's recognizable by having a very short ear for the top bolt (as opposed to the large-frame alternator that has the hole for that bolt about an inch further away from the case).
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Originally posted by MeLikeyStripperChicks View PostThat 3G alternator can also be found in both 3.0 and 3.8 Turuses, but they both come in small and large frame setup depending on year of production. Look for a small-frame 3G alternator, it's recognizable by having a very short ear for the top bolt (as opposed to the large-frame alternator that has the hole for that bolt about an inch further away from the case).
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Run 4 gauge or bigger directly to the battery from the alternator. Make sure if you are to do this you upgrade the ground on your battery to frame and ground from chassis to engine. I upgraded mine to 1/0, I have top/side post battery and I use both terminals.
Welding Supply ---
4 gauge or bigger from there, you can even get red cable for the positive and black for the ground if you would like. Get some ring terminals from there too. You can crimp the ring terminals with a vice, or you can spend another $7 and get a swedge crimping tool from that site. Cutting thick ass cable, use a hacksaw unless you got some good cable cutters. Which will make it look nice and clean for the wiring to the alt. Get some split loom, or a heat shield sleeve for the wire to protect it. Get some heat shrink too, it's cheap and if you have a hair dryer or heat gun you can shrink it. You can crimp the cable with a vice.
JC Whitney ---
If you need a cheap & nice looking battery terminal to connect the new cable to.
--List of Needed Items--- [10-15ft] 4AWG or Larger
- [x6]Ring Terminals
- [x1]Battery Terminal
- Heat Shrink Tubing
- Split loom or something to protect the wire.
- Fuse Holder & Fuse
If you get the 3G Alternator your factory cables will not work to well with the alternator being 130amps. The factory cables, I believe [at least in my '81] were 8 gauge which is almost dangerous to use with that high of amperage. That is why a cable upgrade is needed.
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I would ground to the exact same places, just clean the areas off with a wire brush or something of that sort. You can run new cable and get rid of your old, or you can leave your existing ground. Current will take the path of least resistance for the ground. I got rid of my ground cables so I could see how long I had to make the new ones. I just ran a new one to the alt for the positive.
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