Well I'll see how the changes I made tonight affect things. I now have the vacuum source going straight to the EGR solenoid and then straight to the EGR valve. The rest of the lines going to the smog pump stuff is unhooked. The small canister on the right fender is unhooked too. I was going to leave it but I didn't have a vacuum splitter...not sure which part (smog or EGR) it was meant to work with?
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Originally posted by PushnFords View Post
Down by the battery? If so, that's part of the EVAP system. It recycles the fumes from the gas tank into manifold vacuum so the motor can burn it. I believe the idea behind it is to keep the pressure down in the fuel tank. If you leave that unhooked it will vent those fumes to atmosphere wherever the canister itself is. Mileage might be worse since the computer is correcting for the (small) amount of fuel it's not seeing burned
If it's not the evap thingy then forget I said anything.sigpic
- 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims
- 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust
- 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stockComment
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Well I unhooked that one too. I started tracing vacuum lines and the top one to the canister inside the fender was broken off. I unhooked a hose splice by the front of the intake (vacuum source to the cannister) and caped it off.Originally posted by 1990LTD View Post
What I assume is a vacuum reservoir that I unhooked is on the rear of the RH inner fender and held down by two tabs with plastic clips.Comment
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Leave the EVAP system hooked up. What happens if it doesn't work is that the pressure will build in the fuel tank until the gas cap reaches its preset limit and vents all of those fumes into the atmosphere. Which stinks, and may get fuel on the car's paint. Also, the computer is expecting the fuel vapors coming in through that system and it might run worse if it doesn't have them.91 Mercury CP, Lopo 302, AOD, 3.08LSD. 3g upgrade, Moog wagon coils up front, cc819s in the back. KYB GR-2 police shocks. Energy suspension control arm bushings. Smog deleted.Originally posted by gadget73
93 F-150 XLT, 302, ZF 5-spd from 1-ton, 4wd.
Daily--07 Civic Coupe. Bone stock with 25k miles
Wife--14 Subaru Outback. 6-speed.
95 Subaru Legacy Wagon--red--STOLEN 1/6/13Comment
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you can actually just unplug the smog solenoids entirely. it sets codes, but so does having them there but not plumbed. Doesn't make any difference to how runs.
evap and egr systems are useful to have. They hurt nothing, and can buy a smidge of fuel economy. win-win IMO. the smog pump on the other hand is a useless waste of space.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousersComment
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I didn't cap the vent line off...so it is currently self venting. My canister is busted so I don't have a lot of options unless I find a replacement.Originally posted by 91waggin View PostComment
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