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    lifting body from frame

    What is involved in lifting the body from the frame?


    Is it just a set of body mounts holding it on?


    I want to do some surface rust removal and any repairs necessary to the frame, and apply some sort of rust prevention and paint her up.


    I will do my body work at this time as well, it seems like it would be much easier. I may be mistaken in that assumption but I still want to rust proof the frame
    sigpic


    - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

    - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

    - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

    #2
    Body mounts. Most if not all will be rusted fast. They most likely need to be replaced. You have to cut holes in the trunk to get at some of them. And most will break. They are unobtainium. Scott has some kind of body mount recipe that he uses to make something work. Good luck...

    Comment


      #3
      yeah, basically just 16 bolts. the secret recipe is an ES universal mount and a specially made spacer washer to make it fit properly. The step on the ES bushing is smaller than the hole in the frame, so the washer is needed to make up the difference. If you're really planning to seperate the body from the frame in any meaningful way, you'll also need to unhook the fuel lines and brake lines and stuff so you can move them apart. You can lift the body a couple inches to swap mounts without doing that, but you're not getting much more. Oh, the steering column also needs disconnecting. I'm sure theres other stuff thats just not coming to mind immediately.
      86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
      5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

      91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

      1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

      Originally posted by phayzer5
      I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by gadget73 View Post
        yeah, basically just 16 bolts. the secret recipe is an ES universal mount and a specially made spacer washer to make it fit properly. The step on the ES bushing is smaller than the hole in the frame, so the washer is needed to make up the difference. If you're really planning to seperate the body from the frame in any meaningful way, you'll also need to unhook the fuel lines and brake lines and stuff so you can move them apart. You can lift the body a couple inches to swap mounts without doing that, but you're not getting much more. Oh, the steering column also needs disconnecting. I'm sure theres other stuff thats just not coming to mind immediately.


        I'd imagine there's a bit of wiring going on...I'd probably try to disconnect it as far forward as possible.



        I basically want to do what UK andy did with his wagon frame, but maybe not as extensive I wanna de-rust the frame, paint it, get new mounts, and put the body back on.
        sigpic


        - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

        - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

        - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

        Comment


          #5
          there really isn't very much wiring at all. I think there are a couple ground straps, and thats basically it. The wiring all runs inside the body.
          86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
          5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

          91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

          1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

          Originally posted by phayzer5
          I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

          Comment


            #6
            body mounts

            Originally posted by 86VickyLX View Post
            Body mounts. Most if not all will be rusted fast. They most likely need to be replaced. They are unobtainium.
            Metal with a hard rubber covering from the factory?
            '79 Continental Town Car
            '90 Crown Victoria LTD
            '94 Crown Victoria

            Comment


              #7
              whos got thay body mount location diagram i recall seeing around?
              sigpic


              - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

              - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

              - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

              Comment


                #8
                http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthre...ase-Read-First!

                scroll down to post #10
                -Phil

                sigpic

                +1982 Ford LTD-S Police Car. Built 351w, Trickflow 11R 190 Heads, Holley Sniper EFI, RPM Intake+ Hyperspark dizzy, WR-AOD, Full exhaust headers to tails. 3.27 Trac-Lok Rear. Aluminum Police Driveshaft. Speedway Springs+Bilstein Shocks, Intermediate Brakes, HPP Steering Box.

                +2003 Acura CL Type S 6-speed

                Comment


                  #9
                  sigpic


                  - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

                  - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

                  - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Amazingly not many of my bolts were rusted....I think only one I couldn't get out- which was over the rear axle on the pass side, which is not accessible at all on a wagon without removing the whole rear interior...

                    Not much wiring-maybe a ground strap ( I don't even remember seeing one), brake lines to the master cylinder (probably easier to pull MC from booster) , fuel lines at the motor in the engine compartment, steering shaft.



                    Originally posted by 1990LTD View Post
                    whos got thay body mount location diagram i recall seeing around?
                    Read the FAQ!!!!
                    Builder/Owner of Badass Panther Wagons

                    Busy maintaining a fleet of Fords

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