Good ways to fill holes in body

[TomO]

What are the details of some tried and true methods of filling trim holes -- such as the holes in the roof when removing the vinyl top -- which DO NOT involve welding/brazing etc.?

Also, what is involved in removing the interior headliner of a box in order to gain access to the interior surface of the roof?

Thanks.

[87gtVIC]

http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthread.php?16766-Slicktop-Conversion-in-Progress-%29&highlight=headliner+removal

Some info on headliner removal.

You can bondo over the holes. I would use something with a fiberglass reinforcement though so it is not as susceptible to moisture.

Maybe something like a metal backer attached with panel bond and then filler over the hole on the outside would work too.

I also would not recommend going this route. Welding is the best way.

I had a replaced a fender on my car over the summer. The replacement came from a 88+ grand marquis so I had some trim holes to fill because I have an 87 crown victoria. I welded the holes as I did not want to ever deal with bubbling body filler.

Good luck with your project. Slick tops are way nice!

[turbo2256b]

I often use quick dry JB weld. A piece of sheet metal cut to size clean surfaces to bare metal then glue piece in place. Often the J B weld ends up as the bondo also.

[Mr Bean]

Weld is the only way to go if you want it to last. Bondo and anything else will fail sooner or later.

[TomO]

Thanks for the tips and input. This car is just a daily driver and I don't have much time, and I don't want to put a bunch of money into it. So, welding the holes up is pretty much out of the question, and if bondo has a chance of coming out, then I don't want to waste time with that.

I also thought about using JB Weld, but lately I've been having bad luck with JB Weld eventually breaking down and coming loose and cracking on other projects. Not sure if they changed the formula or what.

I actually removed the vinyl a few years ago and removed all the glue that was under the vinyl. I plugged the holes w/ tiny little rubber expandable stoppers, which have worked really well, and have never leaked as far as I can tell. The clear coat is finally starting to peel off, so I had thought about filling the holes and repainting.

Anyhow, thanks for the input -- not sure exactly what I'm going to do with it. I still have time to think about it, since it won't be warm enough to paint for a few months yet.

[sly]

Getting the mix complete and smooth is a major factor in JB weld effectiveness. The other major factor is getting the surfaces CLEAN. protecting the JB weld from UV damage can also be an issue if used on a spot that sees the sun. Sanding and painting with good thickness of paint helps. A good sealer primer helps too. I've also had good luck with plastic welder epoxy (bonds metal pretty damn good too), but the same things apply as with JB weld. JB weld can take a little more heat than the plastic welder, so it's probably a better choice... but welding is definitely the best way.

[Tiggie]

I used some kind of steel 2-part epoxy as a backer on my slick top conversion. Don't remember what type but it was probably cheap. Looked like gray bubble gum blobs on the inside but it no one ever sees it. Topside went with Bondo. It worked well but did shrink a little over time. Still looked fine after two years when I sold it.

If you weld, Tig may be your best bet. I am not the most experienced welder, but the sheetmetal isn't the thickest and warping can happen if you don't take it really slow. I say this as I prepare to mig quarter skins on my 68 mustang. I don't have a Tig.

[gadget73]

tried and true is lead if you want to go that route. Have to be careful not to warp the panel or set the car on fire though.

[Crown_Chronivic]

tried and true is lead if you want to go that route. Have to be careful not to warp the panel or set the car on fire though.

If by tried and true you mean methods from the 70's... nobody used lead anymore that I know of

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[Crown_Chronivic]

If the holes are under 1" which they certainly are short strand fiberglass filler can be used without any backing but I would suggest removing any excess filler before it sets as it is a lot less workable than regular bodyfill

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[knucklehead0202]

Lead is still used by serious resto/custom shops in some cases because it makes seams between panels almost impossible to pick out. Also still the best thing in other uses too, like installing toilet flanges....