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85 351 4door Vic **DUW**

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    #76
    Today I went jobhunting, handing out about a dozen resumes to different auto shops in attempt to sweep their floors and pickup their parts for minimum wage.


    The car had been running pretty nicely all afternoon, despite stop-and-go traffic, repeatedly having to floor it to make left-hand turns, and turning it off and on in less than 10 minute intervals.


    I parked at a large Active green + Ross, where I asked if they were hiring, and they said no, but they'd take my resume anyway. I go back to my car, which is right out front, almost directly in front of the main desk, and the interior lights don't come on when I open the door. Uh oh... I put the key in, turn it, click. No gauge action, no warning lights, no weaksauce startermotor groans, and definetely no burbly dual exhaust. The car is 100% dead electrically. The battery is an exide made in december 08, so it's got to be electrical.


    At this point, I'm starting to sweat, with images of either towing or repair bills that I really, really cannot afford (hence my job hunt). The car is totally non-responsive, and I can't really narrow it down in my mind much beyond "wiring".


    I pop the hood, and spend about 5 minutes tugging and chasing every electrical wire that looks like it could possibly short out or cause the whole car to go dead. I find absolutely nothing that looks out of order, other than a couple minor things which have been there for ages and that look the same as when I last saw them.


    I go into the trunk, haul out my tool kit, and disconnect the positive battery cable. Tapping it on the terminal, it sparks, and the battery seems visually to be allright, so I'm pretty sure at this point that I'm dealing with wiring, somewhere, anywhere. I follow the positive battery cable along to some sort of power distribution...thingy. I have no clue what it's purpose is, other than splitting up the power. It's on the passenger firewall, about 5 inches from the battery, is small and black, and has a copper bolt that the positve cable attatches to, with other wires on the bolt going every which way. On a whim, with no other ideas, I undo the nut, and take off each wire on that copper bolt, cleaning the connectors with my shirt as I go.



    None of the connectors seemed dirty enough to not be getting power, but I re-attatch them all, reconnect the positive cable to the battery, and get back in the car with no real logic or confidence telling my that I did anything to fix anything. The interior lights all come on as the door opens. I put the key in, and it roars to life. I get out of the car, trying to hide my look of disbelief from the managers who had been watching the whole time through the window, and packed up my tools like I knew it would work all along. Closed the hood, and drove away after giving what is probably the best un-intentional job interview in the history of the world.


    So, that was my day. Hopefully I get a job out of it. Anyone have any idea why what I did might have worked? I'm clueless.

    85 4 door 351 Civi Crown Victoria - Summer daily driver, sleeper in the making, and wildly inappropriate autocross machine
    160KMs 600cfm holley, shorty headers, 2.5" catted exhaust, 255/295 tires, cop shocks, cop swaybars, underdrive pulley, 2.73L gears.
    waiting for install: 3.27's, Poly bushings, boxed rear arms, 2500 stall converter, ported e7's, etc

    06 Mazda 3 hatch 2.3L 5AT (winter beater that cost more than my summer car)

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      #77
      Sounds like the thing you were describing and giving you your problems was the solenoid switch.
      ~David~

      My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
      My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

      Originally posted by ootdega
      My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."

      Originally posted by DerekTheGreat
      But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

      Originally posted by gadget73
      my car starts and it has AC. Yours doesn't start and it has no AC. Seems obvious to me.




      Comment


        #78
        What's it's function? And I'm guessing that by un-plugging it I was re-setting it somehow?

        85 4 door 351 Civi Crown Victoria - Summer daily driver, sleeper in the making, and wildly inappropriate autocross machine
        160KMs 600cfm holley, shorty headers, 2.5" catted exhaust, 255/295 tires, cop shocks, cop swaybars, underdrive pulley, 2.73L gears.
        waiting for install: 3.27's, Poly bushings, boxed rear arms, 2500 stall converter, ported e7's, etc

        06 Mazda 3 hatch 2.3L 5AT (winter beater that cost more than my summer car)

        Comment


          #79
          Originally posted by johnunit View Post
          What's it's function? And I'm guessing that by un-plugging it I was re-setting it somehow?
          http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Starter_solenoid <<<click here

          T.A. Malpass 83 LTD Crown Victoria P43

          Comment


            #80
            Hm, someone should update that article to apply more conveniently to any starter solenoid and not just one that happens to be mounted on the starter.
            2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

            Comment


              #81
              What's described in that article doesn't quite sound like what I had happen. I had no power at all to anything. The overhead light didn't go on when I opened the door, the fuel gauge didn't read when I turned the key, the radio didn't go on, etc.

              Is the solenoid I was mucking with very different from what's described in the article? Maybe what I did actually had no effect, and something just had to cool down or get bumped back into place or something.

              85 4 door 351 Civi Crown Victoria - Summer daily driver, sleeper in the making, and wildly inappropriate autocross machine
              160KMs 600cfm holley, shorty headers, 2.5" catted exhaust, 255/295 tires, cop shocks, cop swaybars, underdrive pulley, 2.73L gears.
              waiting for install: 3.27's, Poly bushings, boxed rear arms, 2500 stall converter, ported e7's, etc

              06 Mazda 3 hatch 2.3L 5AT (winter beater that cost more than my summer car)

              Comment


                #82
                Originally posted by johnunit View Post
                What's described in that article doesn't quite sound like what I had happen. I had no power at all to anything. The overhead light didn't go on when I opened the door, the fuel gauge didn't read when I turned the key, the radio didn't go on, etc.

                Is the solenoid I was mucking with very different from what's described in the article? Maybe what I did actually had no effect, and something just had to cool down or get bumped back into place or something.
                Ya know, the same thing happened with my Mother In Law's Buick a couple weeks ago. Exact same symptoms. Her positive battery cable was loose at the battery. I was running fine when she pulled up to Burger King and wouldn't hit a lick 30 minutes later.

                I tightened it up and the ol' girl acted like nothing was wrong and been fine since.

                Sometimes it's the simple stuff. I bet whacking the battery cable did the trick. When's the last time the posts and clamps were cleaned?

                T.A. Malpass 83 LTD Crown Victoria P43

                Comment


                  #83
                  The posts and clamps are quite clean, but I found some splitting of the positive cable on the underside. I think I'll try to find a proper-length replacement battery cable, it makes sense that a bad cable would do the same as a poorly-connected one.

                  Thanks for the advice.

                  85 4 door 351 Civi Crown Victoria - Summer daily driver, sleeper in the making, and wildly inappropriate autocross machine
                  160KMs 600cfm holley, shorty headers, 2.5" catted exhaust, 255/295 tires, cop shocks, cop swaybars, underdrive pulley, 2.73L gears.
                  waiting for install: 3.27's, Poly bushings, boxed rear arms, 2500 stall converter, ported e7's, etc

                  06 Mazda 3 hatch 2.3L 5AT (winter beater that cost more than my summer car)

                  Comment


                    #84
                    Originally posted by johnunit View Post
                    The posts and clamps are quite clean, but I found some splitting of the positive cable on the underside. I think I'll try to find a proper-length replacement battery cable, it makes sense that a bad cable would do the same as a poorly-connected one.

                    Thanks for the advice.
                    Yup..

                    I hope that solves the problem.

                    T.A. Malpass 83 LTD Crown Victoria P43

                    Comment


                      #85
                      I scored myself some nice parts today off a 65,000KM wrecked 84 GM. A dash pad in almost perfect condition (this is a big deal, see pics on first page), and a center rear seatbelt unit, both the retracting left belt and the static middle belt. The old left side belt was retracting so far you had to dig in to get it, and the loose lap belt had no plastic cover on the buckle, so it didn't stay tight around the passenger.

                      All this for 30 bucks. not a screaming deal but nice.

                      The guy also has a set of 4 80ish% tires of the right size he'll give me for 80 installed. Seems like a good deal, but I wish I had the denaro for the turbines on the GM.

                      85 4 door 351 Civi Crown Victoria - Summer daily driver, sleeper in the making, and wildly inappropriate autocross machine
                      160KMs 600cfm holley, shorty headers, 2.5" catted exhaust, 255/295 tires, cop shocks, cop swaybars, underdrive pulley, 2.73L gears.
                      waiting for install: 3.27's, Poly bushings, boxed rear arms, 2500 stall converter, ported e7's, etc

                      06 Mazda 3 hatch 2.3L 5AT (winter beater that cost more than my summer car)

                      Comment


                        #86
                        How much is he asking for the turbines?
                        '79 Continental Town Car
                        '90 Crown Victoria LTD
                        '94 Crown Victoria

                        Comment


                          #87
                          Originally posted by 79lincolnlover View Post
                          How much is he asking for the turbines?
                          didn't get into pricing on that since I only had about 80 bucks on me. If I had to guess though, 100-150 with no tires. They're in pretty good condition, and if I had the cash I'd probably get them and give them to someone here for cost plus a little finder's fee. Maybe if I end up going back for the tires he offered I'll see about harvesting the turbines. He knew his fair share about 80s fords (was tuning up a MINT green 2dr zephyr with a roller 302, and has a few nice pickups), but didn't seem to put all that much value in the turbines.

                          85 4 door 351 Civi Crown Victoria - Summer daily driver, sleeper in the making, and wildly inappropriate autocross machine
                          160KMs 600cfm holley, shorty headers, 2.5" catted exhaust, 255/295 tires, cop shocks, cop swaybars, underdrive pulley, 2.73L gears.
                          waiting for install: 3.27's, Poly bushings, boxed rear arms, 2500 stall converter, ported e7's, etc

                          06 Mazda 3 hatch 2.3L 5AT (winter beater that cost more than my summer car)

                          Comment


                            #88
                            Visited the guy with the Grand Marq parts car again today. I didn't end up getting anything the car, but I did get a battery hold-down that actually fits the battery, and a battery cable that is not all split and corroded.

                            He also cleared up how to change the timing for me, and we figured out that it had too much advance. This would explain the hard starting, and strangely high-rpm powerband. After bumping it back 4ish degrees (we didn't use a timing light), it sounded better, and though I lost a bit of top end, it will now consistently spin both wheels from a stop*

                            I had mainly gone there to have him slap on a set of 2/3ish tread Michelins for 80 bucks, but he somehow lost 2 of the tires. No big deal, my fronts were far worse, so I put them on. He didn't have a balancer, so we just put the weights back on where they were. There's a bit of vibration at high speed, so obviously I'm going to have to bring the wheels in to somewhere to be balanced. What a piss off, if it was the school year I'd just do it myself in the auto shop during lunch.

                            *note* Wheel spinning was conducted on closed course with professional stunt driver.


                            I also snapped some crappy cellphone pics of not only the Zephyr (which was fucking mint, straight as an arrow body), and an ultra-rare 1982 Cougar Wagon he's restoring. 30,000 made and I'd be surprised if 30 still exist.



                            The 84 Grand Marquis is still there, and pretty complete. Damaged front passenger corner, but otherwise really, really nice. It's white on blue with Turbines and something like 54,000 KMs (35K miles, give or take). If anyone is interested, I can get you his number or maybe set up picking the parts for you. He seems to only care about the engine, and he was a real good guy to deal with.

                            85 4 door 351 Civi Crown Victoria - Summer daily driver, sleeper in the making, and wildly inappropriate autocross machine
                            160KMs 600cfm holley, shorty headers, 2.5" catted exhaust, 255/295 tires, cop shocks, cop swaybars, underdrive pulley, 2.73L gears.
                            waiting for install: 3.27's, Poly bushings, boxed rear arms, 2500 stall converter, ported e7's, etc

                            06 Mazda 3 hatch 2.3L 5AT (winter beater that cost more than my summer car)

                            Comment


                              #89
                              Originally posted by johnunit View Post
                              I also snapped some crappy cellphone pics of not only the Zephyr (which was fucking mint, straight as an arrow body), and an ultra-rare 1982 Cougar Wagon he's restoring. 30,000 made and I'd be surprised if 30 still exist.
                              Restoring an '82 Cougar wagon? Didn't know anyone cared about those. Can you post up these pics?
                              2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

                              Comment


                                #90
                                Originally posted by 1987cp View Post
                                Restoring an '82 Cougar wagon? Didn't know anyone cared about those. Can you post up these pics?
                                I'm leaving for the weekend, but I'll post them up on Sunday if they turned out ok.


                                Yeah, he sorta sounded like a guy on here. "they don't make em like they used to, and these things are rare, people don't respect the cars from the 80s blah blah blah". I think he's right, even if it is just badge engineering, a cougar wagon is gonna be a pretty neat car in a few years, as a piece of trivia if nothing else. He also had an early 70s F100, and a few 70s dodges.

                                85 4 door 351 Civi Crown Victoria - Summer daily driver, sleeper in the making, and wildly inappropriate autocross machine
                                160KMs 600cfm holley, shorty headers, 2.5" catted exhaust, 255/295 tires, cop shocks, cop swaybars, underdrive pulley, 2.73L gears.
                                waiting for install: 3.27's, Poly bushings, boxed rear arms, 2500 stall converter, ported e7's, etc

                                06 Mazda 3 hatch 2.3L 5AT (winter beater that cost more than my summer car)

                                Comment

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